中国和日本茶文化之间存在哪些重大差异?
2022-05-18 回复奖励 20397
正文翻译
What are significant differences in Chinese and Japanese tea culture?

中国和日本茶文化之间存在哪些重大差异?

评论翻译
Robin Daverman, World traveler
What are significant differences in Chineseand Japanese tea culture?
Well, the biggest difference is that Japanhas a real tea ceremony. China doesn’t. Other than the occasional touristtraps. That’s like you can sport a wine-snob persona in the US, but not inFrance. In France, you’ve been drinking the stuff since you were 5 years old,so what’s the big deal.

最大的差别是日本拥有真正的茶道。中国没有,除了偶尔的旅游陷阱外。这就好比你在美国可以找到一个葡萄酒假内行,而在法国找不到。在法国,人们从5岁开始就喝葡萄酒了,所以有什么了不起的。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


And it all comes down to this plant,Carmelia Sinensis.

一切都归结为这种植物,Carmelia Sinensis

This is the tea plant. It’s atropical/sub-tropical plant. It doesn’t like to be too hot, or too cold; toowet, or too dry; too sunny, or too cloudy; too high, or too low,… basically, itwants to live on a foggy, humid hillside with acidic soil, no snow and ice, alot of rain but drain quickly, a lot of sun but not too strong, well-fertilizedbut not too rich, … and that’s not the natural environment in Japan! It’ssituated too far up-north.

这就是茶树。这是一种热带/亚热带植物。不喜太热,也不喜太冷;不喜太湿,也不喜太干;不喜阳光太过充足,也不喜太过阴天;不喜海拔太高,也不喜太低。。。基本上它喜欢生活在有雾潮湿的的山坡上,酸性土壤,没有雪和冰,很多雨水,但是很快就流干,很多阳光,但不是太强烈,良好授粉,但不是太充分。。。而日本不存在这样的自然环境!日本太北了。


So tea in Japan is like the Kobe Beef -musical massage and whatnot. Protection in the winter, sun shade in the summer,hand-picked at a maximum rate of 10 pounds a day, etc. A nice ceremony to gowith it when you drink the stuff. OK. Fine.

所以日本的茶就像神户牛肉——音乐按摩等等。冬天受保护,夏天避阳,每天最多人工采集10磅等等。然后喝茶的时候再来个仪式吧。OK,没问题。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


But this is a native plant in China. Chinaproduces 40% of the tea in the entire world. Mountains after mountains of thisplant with no special protection whatsoever, growing like weed.

但是茶树在中国是原生植物。中国的茶产量占据世界的40%。一片接着一片的山都是这种植物,没有什么特殊的保护,像野草一样生长着。

People trade it by the bucket.

人们是一桶一桶的交易这种产品。

So what is this “let’s invent a bunch ofspecial utensils just to get a tiny spoonful of tea leaves”? It’s just a drinkand a cooking spice. I mean, you don’t have a roast beef ceremony or a spagetticeremony, do you? Or ponder too much into the “the philosophical significanceand symbolism of Roast Beef”.

所以为什么要发明很多的特殊仪器来喝这种饮料呢?它不过是一种饮料,一种烹饪调料。我的意思是不存在什么烤牛肉仪式或者意大利面仪式吧?也没有说要思考什么烤牛肉的哲学意义和象征吧。

Do you like the taste or not? That’s allthere is.

你喜欢不喜欢那个味道?仅此而已。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Wang Di
Sat · 61 upvotes including Robin Davermanand Feifei Wang

道旁草屋两三家,见客擂麻旋点茶。渐近中原语音好,不知淮水是天涯。
The Japanese tea ceremony was deeplyinfluenced by Song Dynasty tea making. It was quite common then to grind tealeaves into powder, and pour water in to make a cloudy looking drink, oftenadding other spices or even cereal. Song people called it leicha 擂茶.
日本茶道深受宋朝制茶的影响。那时候经常把茶叶碾压成粉,然后冲水变成浑浊的饮料,经常会加入其它香料,甚至是加入谷类。宋人称之为擂茶。

As it showed in this sorrow South Songpoem, such kind of tea could be easily found in a street side teahouses backthen. Leaving out the spices and cereals, that would be factually the samething as mocha.

道旁草屋两三家,见客擂麻旋点茶。渐近中原语音好,不知淮水是天涯。
正如这首悲伤的宋词所表明的,这种茶在当时的街边茶馆里很容易找到。如果不加入香料和谷物,就和抹茶无异了。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


But, at the beginning of Ming dynasty, twothings happened that would eventually make leicha obsolete.

但是到了明朝初期,两件事情的发生让擂茶变得过时。

One was that, as ceremonial as the wholegrinding and spice-adding looks, leicha was still mainly designed to makeaverage or even stale tea tastes better. For green tea, nothing beatsfreshness. Around the founding of Ming, tea farmers finally developed thetechnic to dry fry fresh tea leaves for much longer preservation without toomuch compromise of losing the flavor. The top notch tea leaves still makequality leicha today, but for 99% of the populace, dry fried tea is much moreeconomical and just as delicious. And time-saving.

第一,整个的研磨和香料添加看起来很有仪式感,擂茶可以让普通甚至是不新鲜的茶变得更好喝。就绿茶而言,新鲜是最重要的。在明朝建立时,茶农终于发展出了技术来干炒新鲜的茶叶,可以保存更长时间,而不会使香味丧失。如今最好的茶叶依然可以做出高质量的擂茶,但是对于99%的大众来说,干炒的茶叶更加经济,味道一样美味。而且节省时间。

The other thing was that, Ming had a reallylow-born founding emporer, who resented corruption and extravagance in generaland did not hesitate to cleanse the upper class with their own blood. So whenZhu Yuanzhang ordered to stop the leicha tribute and that his imperial palaceonly served dry fried tea, only a suicidal official dared to drink leicha.

另外一件事是明朝的建国皇帝出身卑微,他憎恨腐败和浪费,毫不犹豫清洗上层阶级。所以当朱元璋下令停止擂茶进贡以及皇城只供应干炒茶时,只有一个不怕死的官员敢喝擂茶。

You are quite spot-on to say that Chinadoesn't have a tea ceremony. No we don’t. The “traditional” tea serving showone may find in an over-priced Chinese teahouse, whether it is in Mainland,Hong Kong, or Taiwan, is but a cranky made-up.

你说中国没有茶仪式是对的。我们确实没有。而你在任何一个高价的中国茶馆里所看到的上茶秀,不论是在大陆,香港还是台湾,那都是奇葩的捏造。

Min Yan, Knows China and experienced a lotof the world
Japanese emphasize the process, Chineseemphasize the taste.

日本人强调的是过程,中国人强调的是味道。

Japanese has very limited variety of tea(can be counted within one hand), and the tea ceremony is for Mocha (a stylefrom the Song Dynasty of China). All the relatively southern Chinese provincesproduce tea, and the variety is huge. In my office, I store and regularly drinklongjing from Zhejiang, puer and red tea from Yunnan, black tea from Hunan, biluochunfrom Jiangsu, oolong from Taiwan, tieguanyin and zhenshanxiaozhong and shuixianfrom Fujian, in addition to teas from Malaysia and Turkey. I use variety ofutensils for different kinds of teas. You need different process to bring outthe flavor of various tea produced in various way.

日本人所拥有的茶种类很少(一只手就可以数过来),茶道是为抹茶准备的(抹茶源于宋朝)。中国南方省份都产茶,种类繁多。在我办公室里,我经常喝浙江龙井,越南普洱和红茶,湖南黑茶,江苏碧螺春,台湾乌龙茶,福建的铁观音,正山小种和水仙,还有马来西亚和土耳其的茶。不同的茶用不同的器具喝。你需要不同的程序来带出各种不同茶叶的味道。

I am always of the opinion that theelaborate Japanese culture regarding certain food is the result of severe lackof variety and the Japanese tendency of going to extreme. For example, Japaneseoften eat white rice with pickled vegetables, and the vegetables taste quitegood. However, I find all the pickled vegetables taste the same. In contrast,the variety of Chinese pickled vegetables is huge, although many are not astasteful as Japanese. The lack of variety in Japanese food is comparable to thefood in northern China and Korea (even less variety). With little variety towork with, the Japanese food artists then go to extremes in other directions,such as elaborate rituals in tea ceremony and many many different utensils.

我认为日本在某些食物上所呈现出来的精致文化是由于种类单一以及日本人极端个性造成的。举个例子,日本人经常吃白米饭配腌制蔬菜,蔬菜味道很好。然而,我发现所有腌制蔬菜的味道都是一样的。相比之下,中国腌制蔬菜的种类多样,虽然很多没有日本的那么好吃。日本在食物种类上的稀缺就好比中国北方和朝鲜。由于种类少,所以日本美食家们就在其他方面走极端,比如精致的茶道仪式和很多很多不同的器具。

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