为什么我在家做的炒饭就是做不出中餐馆里的味道?
2021-02-25 兰陵笑笑生 34561
正文翻译
Why does homemade fried rice never taste the same as fried rice from a Chinese restaurant? Am I missing some secret ingredient or method?

为什么自制炒饭的味道从来不像中餐馆的炒饭一样?我漏掉了一些秘方或方法吗?





原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


评论翻译
Eric Oehler
, food nerd willing to eat basically anything not actively trying to escape.
Fried rice is deceptively tricky. It seems like such an easy dish - I mean, rice! fried! What’s to know? A lot, as it turns out.
The first thing you need is properly prepared rice. If that’s not done right, the right combinations of spices and seasonings can’t save it. The tradition is to use “leftover” rice, although if you steam rice you can get rice with the right consistency for it as well, without having to wait several hours for your freshly cooked rice to set up properly. It’s not the simplest skill, though, and you’ll probably need to ruin a few batches in experimentation until you find something that works right for you. (but hey, if it’s not burnt, even “ruined” rice can be made tasty! So no major loss.)
Restaurants also have much hotter stoves, much bigger pans, and have much more of an regimented mentality - your chefs will be used to turning out quantity quickly, have all their ingredients at the ready, and be well-practiced in the timing of every ingredient. So they’ve got a couple of legs up on you already. You can compensate by having a good mise-en-place; get all your ingredients ready to go and at easy reach before you start cooking.
The restaurant advantage of “bigger everything” is hard to overstate. An easy mistake to make when cooking any restuarant-y dish at home is to crowd too much into too small a pan, which throws off heat distribution. It’s no different with fried rice. In a restaurant, it’s fried in a remarkably large wok. Most home chefs don’t have a wok that big, and “that big” is barely big enough for the quantities they’re tyring to make for a family of four (or whatever). So too much rice in too small a pan means the result is not cooked as well as it could be.
Timing and technique are critical; do too much at once and you get clumpy overly wet rice; lose focus and it gets crunchy and hard, move it too little and it won’t separate and you’ll get seasoned pockets and bland pockets, etc. Practice, as much as anything, makes good fried rice.

炒饭是很有欺骗性的。它看起来像是一道简单的菜--我的意思是,米饭!炒!完事儿了,还需要知道些什么?事实证明,确实有很多东西要知道。
首先你需要的是正确准备的米饭。如果做得不对,再合适的香料和调料组合也救不了它。传统的做法是使用"剩饭",尽管如果你蒸饭,你也可以得到与之相适应的米饭,而不必等待几个小时让你刚煮好的米饭正确地凝固。不过这不过是最简单的要求,你可能会在实验中毁掉几批,直到你找到适合自己的东西。(不过,嘿嘿,如果没有烧焦,即使是 "毁掉"的米饭也可以做得很好吃! 所以不会吃大亏)。)
餐馆也有更热的炉子,更大的锅子,更多的规律性--你的厨师会习惯于快速出餐,把所有的食材都准备好,并且对每一种食材的时间都有很好的练习。所以他们已经比你高出几个等级了。你可以通过良好的布置来弥补:在你开始做饭之前,把所有的食材都准备好,方便拿取。
餐厅"什么都大一点"的优势很容易被忽略掉。在家里做任何餐馆式的菜肴时,很容易犯的一个错误就是在太小的锅里放太多东西,这样会影响热量的分布。炒饭也是如此。在餐馆里,炒饭是在一个非常大的锅里炒的。大多数家庭厨师都没有那么大的锅,而"那么大"对于他们要做的四口之家(或其他什么)的数量来说其实只是勉强够用。所以在太小的锅里放太多的米饭,就意味着米饭是炒不熟的。
时机和技巧很关键,一次做得太多,你就会得到黏在一起过于湿润的米饭;做得太少,就会变得又脆又硬。炒饭的动作太小,米饭就不会分开,你就会得到味道不均匀的炒饭等等。和所有事情一样,只要勤于练习,就可以做出好的炒饭。

Chris Ebbert
, lived in China
As a frequent and passionate gobbler of fried rice in sometimes conspicuous quantities who has cracked the mystery, I feel I should hereby give the secret to the world.
It was bestowed upon me by a relative’s Chinese wife in Winnipeg 25 years ago, and it has been confirmed in its validity by my own Chinese wife.
Two words: Flavour enhancers.
Chinese restaurants often take delivery of large sacks of a substance called Monosodium Glutamate, which sounds scandalous, until you cook with it. That stuff will turn even bits of soaked cardboard into a meal whose memory you will savour for the rest of your life, and if you don’t belong to the faction of unfortunates who get a headache from it, there is little wrong with using it if it’s your only indulgence in life.
I once chatted with an Australian chef during a flight layover in Saudi Arabia who said it was one of the secrets of his success with oil drilling crews.
Just check the shelf in the shop for any spice all type products. They contain it. Bring some home, and fried rice will never be the same.

作为一个醉心于炒饭并且破解了其中的奥秘的人,我觉得我应该在此把这个秘密告诉全世界。
这个秘密是25年前温尼伯一位亲戚的中国妻子送给我的,我自己的中国妻子也证实了它的有效性。
两个字:味精
中餐馆经常会送来大袋的一种叫味精的物质,听起来很吓人,直到你用它做饭。那东西会把即使是零碎的浸泡过的硬纸板也变成一顿让你终生回味无穷的饭菜,如果你不属于那种被它弄得头疼的不幸者,如果它是你生活中唯一的放纵,那么使用它也没什么不好的。
我曾经在沙特的一次飞行停留中和一位澳大利亚厨师聊天,他说这是他在石油钻井队干得很成功的秘诀之一。
只需在商店的货架上检查任何香料类型的产品。只要它们含有味精成分。带一些回家,就会刷新你对炒饭的认识。

Luis M. Gonzalez
Some people claim that MSG leads to excessive glutamate in the brain and excessive stimulation of nerve cells. For this reason, MSG has been labeled an excitotoxin. Fear of MSG dates as far back as 1969, when a study found that injecting large doses of MSG into newborn mice caused harmful neurological effects ( 4 ).Nov 19, 2018
MSG (Monosodium Glutamate): Good or Bad?
By the way, it's also known as “Ajinomoto”.

“有些人声称味精会导致大脑中过量的谷氨酸和神经细胞的过度刺激。 因此,味精被标记为兴奋性毒素。对味精的恐惧可以追溯到1969年,当时一项研究发现,向新生小鼠注射大剂量的味精会造成有害的神经效应(4)。2018年11月19日”
——味精(谷氨酸钠):好还是坏?(信息链接)
顺便说一句,它也被称为“味之素”。

Chris Ebbert
Very interesting. No wonder I get all excited about fried rice. :)

有意思。难怪我对炒饭这么兴奋 :)

Magnus Alsered
lix is in Swedish
Livsmedelsverket
It is no allowed in food for small children.
According to EU from 2017
Max recommend level/day: 30mg/kg body weight
So if you weight 60kg *30mg= 1.8g/day let's max 2gram/ day.
I saw in the comments here, that you should only use a pinch.
So I guess in normal usage it should be rather safe to use

下面的链接是瑞典语:

Livsmedelsverket

这是不准在给小孩子的食物里添加的东西。
根据欧盟2017年的数据
味精最大推荐使用量/天:30mg/kg体重
所以如果你的体重是60公斤*30毫克=1.8克/天,让我们算它最多2克/天。
我在这里的评论中看到,你每次应该只用了一点。
所以我想在正常的使用中,它应该是相当安全的使用
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Patrick Khaw
I did recall a Michael Mosely episode that debunked the MSG “causes headaches, tightening of the muscles thing”.
My wife cooks rice in chicken stock before she fries it. The other tipis a really hot pan.

我确实记得迈克尔-莫斯利的节目有一集,揭露了味精"导致头痛、肌肉紧绷"的说法。
我妻子在炒饭之前,先用鸡汤煮饭。另一个小窍门是用很热的锅来炒。

Ariane Knots
MSG doesn’t only cause headaches. After a very long search we concluded that it was the cause of depression for my husband.
As for me it is always good for a sleepless night.
No conspiracy thinker here, just annoyingly evidence based.

味精不仅会引起头痛。经过很长时间的调查,我们得出结论,它是我丈夫产生抑郁症的原因。
对于我来说,它在治疗失眠方面有好处。
这里没有阴谋论,只有令人不快的证据。

Jake Darmawan
it’s a shame here most chinese restaurant would put up sign saying no msg. it still taste good but a bit bland.
while japanese restaurant like ramen shop still uses msg and it is awesome

令人遗憾的是,在这里,大多数中国餐馆都会挂上牌子说没有放味精,它的味道仍然不错,但有点平淡。
而日本餐厅如拉面店仍然使用味精,味道好极了。

Adarsh Shankar
MSG is generally branded a food villain by many groups world over. I don't know the medical science behind it but I suppose a little bit once a while doesn't hurt.

味精被世界上许多团体普遍冠以食品流氓的称号。我不知道它背后的医学科学依据,但我想偶尔吃一点也无妨。

Jonathan Woodfield
It was thought to be a problem in the 20th century, but it was found to generally just be anecdotal evidence for that.
In double blind studies then normal doses of it don't have any adverse effects. You have to have very very high doses for it to actually cause harm - so the stories of it generally causing any ill effects are more likely to be people feeling ill and blaming the MSG rather than it actually being caused by the MSG.

这在20世纪曾被认为是一个问题,但后来发现所谓的证据都是一些传言。
在双盲研究中,正常剂量的味精没有任何不良影响。你必须用非常非常高的剂量,它才能实际上造成伤害 - 所以它一般造成任何不良影响的故事更可能是人们一感到不舒服,就责怪味精,而实际上不是由味精引起的。

Chandra Morgan-Henley
I don’t get headaches from MSG but I can always tell when it’s in my food because it makes my nostrils itch! It sure does help the depth of flavor, though!

我不会因为味精而头疼,但我总能分辨出食物中是否含有味精,因为它会让我的鼻孔发痒。不过,它确实有助于增加食品的风味!

Kamali Mohan
Lots of oil, lots of salt, a pinch of MSG for great taste

大量的油,大量的盐,一小撮味精,味道就会好极了

Martin Bayer
, Chef (1994-present)
upxed January 23 · Upvoted by
Nancy Spradling
, BS in Consumer Food Science, I've been cooking and baking for 60 years
I can’t say for sure whether or not you’re missing any secret ingredients, since I don’t know your recipe. I am certain you’re missing one key component though, and that’s heat.
Chinese restaurants cook over commercial wok burners, which put out 125,000 BTUs of heat. Your home stove might generate 15,000 BTUs out of its largest burner. That’s a pretty significant difference.
The heat of a wok burner imparts a distinctive flavor onto foods. When foods hit the polymerized surface of a hot steel wok, they instantly release moisture, which leaves the food in the form of steam. The foods are tossed through the rising steam, where they capture the droplets of water, and fall back into the wok. This action, repeated over and over, is the essence of wok cooking. The intense heat also causes rapid browning and caramelization and gives the food a distinctive smokey flavor. The flavor, known as Wok Hei in Cantonese, is what makes Chinese take out so crave able, and can’t be duplicated on a home stove. None of what I described can be duplicated, to the same degree, on a home stove. It just doesn’t generate enough heat.

我不知道你是否缺少任何秘方,因为我不知道你的配方。不过我肯定你缺少了一个关键的成分,那就是热量。
中国餐馆在商业炒锅上做饭,它释放出125000 BTU(英国热量单位)的热量。你家的炉子可能只会产生15000 BTU的最大热量。这是一个相当大的差异。
炒锅的热量能给食物带来一种独特的味道。当食物撞击到热钢锅的聚合表面时,它们会立即释放出水分,从而以蒸汽的形式离开食物。食物在上升的蒸汽中被翻滚,在那里它们捕捉到水滴,然后落回锅中。这个动作,不断重复,是锅炒的精髓。强烈的高温也会使食物迅速褐变和焦糖化,并赋予食物独特的烟熏味。这种味道,在广东话中被称为“Wok Hei”(?) ,这就是中国外卖如此美味的原因,而且是在家庭炉子上无法复制。我所描述的一切都无法在家庭炉子上复制同样的程度。因为它就是无法产生足够的热量。

Charles Faraone
My son purchased a professional stove from a yuppie couple who didn’t realize how powerful it was. When they removed the stove the wall behind it was charred. The couple had no idea how close they came to burning down their chic home.

我儿子从一对雅皮士(属于中上阶层的年轻专业人士)夫妇那里买了一个专业的炉子,他们没有意识到它的威力有多大。当他们取下炉子时,炉子后面的墙都被烧焦了。这对夫妇不知道他们离烧毁他们别致的家有多近。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Roy Stapleton
, Lifelong learner/Former boxing coach/Agile Coach
Lots of comments about the cooking craft and equipment, but the main reason is simple, MSG! Ever noticed just how wonderful Chinese fried rice is washed down with a coke or beer? That’s because your brain just got hit with a 1–2–3 combination of MSG followed by salt (also lots of this in chinese food) and sugar in seconds. It’s a pleasure centre carnival in there when MSG is in the food. Umami is what the Japanese call the flavour, it’s found to be the reason westerners love potato’s as it’s a close natural relative of the pleasure kick we get from MSG, but with MSG you are getting it x10.
In the raw MSG is just like fine sugar consistency and all good Asian chefs (aside from the top end of town places) have a pot of it by the stove, a handsome sprinkle in most dishes keeps the customers very happy.

关于烹饪工艺和设备的评论很多,但主要原因很简单,味精! 你有没有注意到,中国的炒饭用可乐或啤酒一起吃的时候有多美妙?那是因为你的大脑在几秒钟内就被味精、盐(在中餐中有大量的盐)和糖的1-2-3组合拳所冲击。当食物中含有味精时,这就是一个快乐中心的狂欢节。日本人把味道称为“鲜味”,这被发现是西方人喜欢土豆的原因,因为它是我们从味精中获得快乐的近亲,但用直接使用味精你会得到它x10的快乐。
生的味精就像糖一样稠密,所有优秀的亚洲厨师(除了高端的地方)都会在炉子旁放一盆味精,在大多数菜品中随意洒上一些味精,就能让顾客非常满意。

Agya Kama
, An avid foodie
Depending on the recipe you use. Fried rice looks simple but there are basic rules that you should follow:
Don’t skimp the ingredients (seasoning, spice, oil). Rice is bland in itself so you need enough flavoring to make it tasteful. Oh, and don’t forget the MSG.
Fried rice is not a diet food. It is a dish to indulge once in a while. You can use various meats, animal fat or leftover from the previous meal. That disasterous Jamie Oliver recipe using olive oil and tofu was because of his obsession in turning unhealthy Asian food into a healthy one. The same applies with cheese cake recipe. You don’t replace the cream cheese with tofu to make it less calorific.
Leftover rice for fried rice must have the correct texture. The day-old rice should have dry and firm consistency which would generate fried rice in individual grains. Mushy, overcooked or undercooked leftover rice is unusable and not worth saving (you can probably make congee out of it but I’m not sure).
Fast pace cooking. Cooking fried rice takes only 10–15 minutes on a high heat using a wok. Put all the ingredients around you when cooking and toss the rice from time to time.
Make sure to follow authentic recipe created by those specializing in Asian cooking. Fried rice needs to have a proper balance of flavor and only the experts nail it from time to time.

取决于你使用的配方。炒饭看似简单,但有一些基本的规则是你应该遵循的。
1.不要吝啬材料(调味料、香料、油)。米饭本身是平淡无奇的,所以你需要足够的调味料来让它入味。哦,别忘了味精。
2.炒饭不是减肥食品。它是一道偶尔可以纵情享受的菜。你可以用各种肉类、动物脂肪或前一餐的剩饭。杰米-奥利弗那份使用橄榄油和豆腐的灾难性食谱,就是因为他痴迷于把不健康的亚洲食物变成健康的食物。同样的道理也适用于奶酪蛋糕的配方。你不会为了减少热量而用豆腐代替奶油奶酪。
3.炒饭的剩饭必须有正确的口感。 剩饭应该既干燥又坚实,这会让每粒米饭都得到烘炒。黏糊糊的、煮过头或未煮熟的剩饭是不能用的,也不值得保存(你也许可以用它来做粥,但我不确定)。
4、快节奏的烹饪。用炒锅大火炒饭只需要10-15分钟。煮饭的时候把所有的食材都放在身边,不时地翻动米饭。
5.一定要按照那些专门从事亚洲烹饪的人创造的正宗配方来做。 炒饭需要有一个适当的味道平衡,只有专家们才能时时刻刻抓住它。

Haosen Kai
, Engineer
There are quite a bit of different types of fried rice, so I’m going to assume you are referring to the most common type with some sort of egg in it.
A few key notes about fried rice that involves egg:
If it’s not aromatic enough, then typically two mistakes:
All ingredients need to be fried first, rice is the last thing that goes into the pan (Except salt, white pepper, and/or soy sauce).
The yolk and the white needs to be separated first - you need to fry the white first, take it out of the pan, re-oil the pan, fry chopped green onion, then egg yolk, and then rice, then white into the pan again, then salt, and white pepper. The eggwhite when mixed with the yolk, will prevent the flavor of the yolk from going inside the rice.
If your rice is all lumped together:
Use thai jasmine rice, it’s typically better. Cook the night before, leave in the fridge overnight. A cold, left over rice helps the grains to separate.
But really, I find the biggest mistake with fried rice is not frying the ingredients first. The second is not separating the egg white with the yolk - it does a lot more than what people think.

炒饭的种类挺多的,我想你说的是最常见的那种含有某种鸡蛋的炒饭。
关于涉及鸡蛋的炒饭,有几个关键的注意事项。
如果它不够香,那么通常有两个错误。
所有食材都要先炒,米饭是最后下锅的(盐、白胡椒和/或酱油除外)。
蛋黄和蛋白要先分开--需要先把蛋白煎好,从锅里拿出来,重新油锅,把葱花煎好,再把蛋黄煎好,再把米饭炒好,再把蛋白再次入锅,再把盐、白胡椒粉放进去。蛋清与蛋黄混合后,可以防止蛋黄的味道进入米饭里面。
如果你的米饭都结块了。
那就用泰国香米吧,这样比较好。前一天晚上煮好,在冰箱里放一夜。冷掉的剩饭有助于米粒分离。
但其实,我觉得炒饭最大的错误就是没有先把食材炒熟。其次是没有将蛋白与蛋黄分离,它在里面起的作用比人们想象的要大得多。

Dave Lawson
, Importing and promotional product design.
Been to China mainland 70 plus times and lived in Shenzhen for 4 years. Funny thing is you rarely and I mean rarely see fried rice on any menu in China. Even white rice usually needs to be requested as most Chinese (at least in the bigger cities) view plain rice as a poor man's dish. Fried rice is called “dirty rice" and is so because it is usually made from yesterday's white rice. I know this doesn't really answer your question directly however in the USA Chinese restaurants (in which the dishes although very good have no relation to authentic Chinese). My partner in Hong Kong will take yesterday's rice, add sesame oil and some teriyaki and fry it in a wok that's probably 50 years old. I think the age of the wok actually plays into the flavor. I'm no chef but I have to say the way he makes it is ridiculously good.

去过中国大陆70多次,在深圳住了4年。有趣的是你很少,我是说很少在中国的任何菜单上看到炒饭。即使是白米饭通常也需要提出要求才上,因为大多数中国人(至少在大城市)认为白米饭是穷人的菜。炒饭被称为"脏饭",之所以如此,是因为它通常是用昨天剩的白米饭做的。我知道这并不能真正直接回答你的问题,然而在美国的中餐馆,里面的菜虽然很好吃,但和正宗的中国菜没有关系。我在香港的伙伴会把昨天的米饭,加上芝麻油和一些照烧,然后在一个大概有50年历史的锅里炒。我觉得炒锅的年限其实对味道有影响。我不是厨师,但我不得不说他的做的味道好得令人发指。

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