如何吃寿司：像东京人一样点菜和吃饭的技巧

Tokyo (CNN) — In theory, sushi is a simple thing to be enjoyed in almost any way you like.

东京（CNN）--从理论上讲，寿司是一种简单的东西，几乎可以用任何你喜欢的方式享用。

Eat it standing or seated, with fingers or chopsticks, dipped in soy sauce, mixed with wasabi, swallowed in one mouthful or more.

站着或坐着吃，用手指或筷子，蘸着酱油，混着芥末，一口或多口吞下。

However, if you want to eat it like a Tokyo local, remember that sushi etiquette changes with the setting.

然而，如果你想像东京当地人一样吃寿司，请记住，寿司的礼仪会随着环境的变化而变化。

The following tips can separate the uninitiated from those in the know, whether you're dining at an economical chain restaurant (which is closer to the dish's street-food roots) or the rarefied establishments of Tokyo's upscale Ginza neighborhood.

无论你是在经济实惠的连锁餐厅（更接近这道菜的根源）还是在东京高档的银座街区的高档场所就餐，下面的提示可以将不熟悉的人与了解情况的人区分开来。

Sushi's origins in Japan date back to the 10th century. Narezushi, the most primitive form of the famed food, was made with fermented fish that was preserved with salt and raw rice.

寿司在日本的起源可以追溯到10世纪。Narezushi，这种著名食物的最原始形式，是用盐和生米保存的发酵鱼制作的。

Edomae sushi (Tokyo style), which is what most are familiar with today, is thought to have originated in the 1800s. It typically revolves around nigiri -- fish with pressed rice -- which can be topped with several dozen types of seafood and other ingredients, not just fish.

江户前寿司（东京风格），也就是今天大多数人所熟悉的，被认为起源于19世纪。它通常围绕着nigiri -- 鱼和压榨的米饭 -- 上面可以有几十种海鲜和其他成分，而不仅仅是鱼。

Sushi chef training is intense and requires long hours. Chefs often apprentice for several years before they're permitted to handle pricier cuts of fish.

寿司厨师的培训很紧张，需要很长的时间。厨师们通常要做几年的学徒，才能被允许处理价格较高的鱼肉。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

With that in mind, let's start at the top: Sushi Sawada, located behind Tokyo's most prestigious intersection of Ginza 4-chome.

考虑到这一点，让我们从头开始。泽田寿司，位于东京最负盛名的银座4丁目十字路口后面。

With two Michelin stars and only seven seats, Sawada is a shrine to sushi -- and to straight-talking master Koji Sawada's continuous quest for perfection.

拥有米其林两颗星和仅有的七个座位，泽田是寿司的圣地，也是直言不讳的大师泽田浩二不断追求完美的地方。

Sawada seasons his ingredients with his own soy sauce blend or a sprinkle of sea salt before combining them on the rice, so he says there's no need for additional soy sauce to dip.

泽田在将食材放在米饭上之前，用他自己的混合酱油或撒上海盐来调味，所以他说不需要额外的酱油来浸泡。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

But as the customer is king/queen, Sawada provides sauce on request. He suggests the best way to use it is first to take the sushi and then turn it upside down and dip the fish side.

但由于顾客是国王/王后，泽田根据要求提供酱汁。他建议最好的使用方法是先拿着寿司，然后把它倒过来，蘸着鱼的一面。

There's a practical reason for inverting your sushi: the rice will fall apart if it's dipped directly. It will also soak up too much sauce, ruining the flavor balance.

倒置寿司有一个实际的原因：如果直接浸泡，米饭会散开。它还会吸收过多的酱汁，破坏味道的平衡。

The flavor is best if the fish only lightly contacts the sauce.

如果鱼只轻轻地接触到酱汁，其味道最好。

Then pop it into your mouth.

然后把它塞进你的嘴里。

"The fish should touch the tongue first," Sawada says.

"鱼应该先接触舌头，"泽田说。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Wasabi moderation and other useful practices

芥末调味和其他有用的做法

Every sushi-ya will give you a personal o-shibori (hand towel) to wipe your fingers with before eating and between bites.

每家寿司店都会给您一条个人的O-shibori（手巾），让您在吃东西之前和吃东西之间擦拭手指。

Alongside the soy sauce will likely be a tub of sweet pickled ginger, known as gari, to refresh the palate.

酱油旁边可能会有一盆甜的腌制生姜，被称为Gari，以刷新口感。

Use your chopsticks to pick some up and place it on your individual sushi board, called a geta for its resemblance to a wooden clog of the same name.

用你的筷子夹起一些，放在你的个人寿司板上，因为它类似于同名的木屐，所以称为geta。
厨师通常会在压制寿司时将磨碎的芥末（日本热辣的辣根）添加到米块中。

The chef will normally add grated wasabi, hot Japanese horseradish, to the block of rice as the sushi is pressed.

用你的筷子夹起一些，放在你的个人寿司板上，因为它类似于同名的木屐，所以称为geta。
厨师通常会在压制寿司时将磨碎的芥末（日本热辣的辣根）添加到米块中。

Feel free to ask for your sushi wasabi-free ("Wasabi nashi kudasai") if the herb is too pungent for you.

如果你觉得芥末的味道太刺鼻，可以要求你的寿司不含芥末（"Wasabi nashi kudasai"）。

Or alternatively, request more, although be warned that an old-school sushi master may frown if asked for additional wasabi, as he will consider his creation to have the appropriate seasoning.

或者，可以要求更多，不过要注意的是，如果要求增加芥末，老派的寿司大师可能会皱眉头，因为他认为他的作品有适当的调味料。

Again, the customer rules, though be aware that slathers of wasabi are a fair giveaway of a novice, as it will overpower the flavor of the fish.

同样，顾客的规则，尽管要注意，大把大把的芥末是新手的一个公平的赠品，因为它将盖过鱼的味道。

Furthermore, while wasabi may be mixed with soy sauce to dip sashimi (raw fish without sushi rice), this is not generally done with sushi.

此外，虽然芥末可以与酱油混合来浸渍生鱼片（不含寿司米的生鱼），但一般不在寿司中这样做。

Chopsticks: Pros and cons

筷子。优点和缺点

There's something visceral about eating with your hands, and in the case of people who eat sushi, the practice may also suggest a casual and carefree persona. Sawada understands this, and would rather not see his sushi handled with chopsticks — although he provides them.

用手吃东西是有内涵的，对于吃寿司的人来说，这种做法也可能意味着一种随意和无忧无虑的个性。泽田理解这一点，并不希望看到他的寿司用筷子处理--尽管他提供了筷子。

"Hands are best," he says. "Like eating curry in India."

"手是最好的，"他说。"就像在印度吃咖喱。"

However, at the cheap and cheerful Magurobito ("The Tuna Guys") in Asakusa, chef Goh Saito says, "Almost everyone these days uses chopsticks. It's for hygiene."

然而，在位于浅草的廉价而欢快的Magurobito（"金枪鱼伙计"），厨师Goh Saito说："现在几乎所有人都使用筷子。这是为了卫生"。

Several years ago this writer took some classes with Tokyo culinary instructor Yumi Sone. She says she prefers chopsticks for their elegance, and even finds eating with the hands a little affected when practiced by anyone but a natural.

几年前，这位作家参加了东京烹饪教师Yumi Sone的一些课程。她说她更喜欢筷子的优雅，甚至觉得用手吃饭时，除了自然人，其他人都会受到一点影响。

"But chopsticks can be tricky when dipping sushi upside down," she agrees.

"但在倒着蘸寿司时，筷子可能很棘手，"她同意。

A further reason to skip chopsticks is that the rice block in the best sushi is often molded quite loosely. Sawada describes his method as packing "a lot of air between the grains."

跳过筷子的另一个原因是，最好的寿司中的米块通常被塑造得相当松散。泽田将他的方法描述为在 "米粒之间有大量的空气"。

It's what helps create his famous melt-in-the-mouth feel.

这有助于创造他著名的融化在口中的感觉。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Chopsticks can compress loose rice grains and alter the texture, or lose their grip, which could be messy.

筷子会压迫松散的米粒，改变口感，或失去抓握力，这可能会造成混乱。

Ordering and avoiding faux pas

点菜和避免假动作
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Many of the best sushi-ya have no menus, but will instead offer different price ranges for fixed courses; your meal is closer to a degustation parade of what's best on that day.

许多最好的寿司店没有菜单，而是为固定的课程提供不同的价格范围；你的膳食更接近于当天最好的东西的试吃游行。

You can still order individual items, though this will be more expensive.

你仍然可以订购单个项目，尽管这将是更昂贵的。

Rather than lining up a range of sushi, the master will offer each piece as it's made.

与其说是排队等候一系列的寿司，不如说是大师在制作过程中提供每一块寿司。

It's not polite to leave a freshly presented piece of sushi for too long in front of you, as temperature, texture and moisture all change. In this respect the sushi-ya makes more demands of the customer than a typical restaurant -- the diner has a role to play.

将一块刚出炉的寿司放在你面前太久是不礼貌的，因为温度、质地和水分都会发生变化。在这方面，寿司店对顾客的要求比一般的餐馆要多 -- 食客要扮演一个角色。

Feel free to ask for a repeat of anything you especially liked. A common faux pas is when a customer fails to inform the master in advance of dislikes or allergies.

请随意要求重复你特别喜欢的东西。一个常见的失误是，顾客没有提前告知主人不喜欢的东西或过敏。

That's why, when it comes to foreign customers, restaurants such as Sawada or the famed Kyubey, also in Ginza, may ask to speak to your concierge or a Japanese speaker before taking a reservation.

这就是为什么，当涉及到外国顾客时，像泽田或同样位于银座的著名的Kyubey餐厅，可能会要求在接受预订前与你的礼宾员或讲日语的人交谈。

Ingredients that commonly provoke reactions are shrimp (ebi); shellfish (kai) and sometimes uni (pronounced oohni), sea urchin. Some people dislike the "fishiness" of items such as mackerel, sardines and herring, collectively known as "glistening things," or hikari mono.

通常引起反应的成分是虾（ebi）；贝类（kai），有时是uni（发音为ohni），海胆。有些人不喜欢诸如鲭鱼、沙丁鱼和鲱鱼的 "鱼腥味"，它们被统称为 "闪亮的东西"，或称光怪陆离。

Most mid-range sushi-ya offer courses. If the course you choose includes anything you can't eat, say the name followed by nashi kudasai, "exclude, please". If you're unconcerned about budget and only want the best the master has to offer, tell him o-makase shimasu -- I'll leave it to you.

大多数中档的寿司店都提供课程。如果您选择的课程包括您不能吃的东西，请在名称后面加上nashi kudasai，"不包括，请"。如果您不关心预算，只想吃主人提供的最好的东西，就告诉他o-makase shimasu -- 我把它留给您。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处

Of course, chain sushi restaurants, usually with conveyor belts, make things easier -- most offer photographic menus and you can simply serve yourself.

当然，连锁寿司店，通常有传送带，使事情变得更容易 -- 大多数提供照相菜单，你可以简单地自己上菜。

Better still, take a stool at the counter and this tip from cookery teacher Sone: "I never take a plate that's going around," she says. "You can order freshly made, direct from the chefs. Also this way, I can ask for a smaller amount of rice (shari sukuna-meh kudasai)."

更好的是，在柜台前拿个凳子，还有烹饪老师Sone的这个提示。她说："我从来没有拿过一个正在转悠的盘子，"她说。"你可以点现做的，直接从厨师那里得到。另外，这样一来，我可以要少量的米饭（shari sukuna-meh kudasai）。"

This is a common practice among diners who don't want to fill up on rice.

这是不想吃饱饭的食客们的普遍做法。

Many sushi-ya serve in portions of two pieces, but most of the cheaper standing places allow you to order singly.

许多寿司店以两块为单位提供服务，但大多数较便宜的地方允许你单点。

It's worth noting the quality at such establishments can be very good, as their turnover is high and many are operated by seafood wholesalers.

值得注意的是，这类场所的质量可能非常好，因为它们的营业额很高，而且许多是由海鲜批发商经营的。

Standing places are intimate and delightfully casual. When pushed for time one can eat well and be out within under half an hour.

站立的地方是亲密的，令人愉快的休闲。在时间紧迫的情况下，人们可以在半小时内吃好并离开。

Check, please

请检查

Sushi restaurants in Japan serve green or brown roasted tea at the end of a meal (and throughout, if you prefer it to sake or beer), before the check arrives. The tea is called agari.

日本的寿司店在用餐结束时（如果你喜欢喝清酒或啤酒，也可以在整个用餐过程中），在结账前提供绿色或棕色的烤茶。这种茶被称为agari。

Be warned that at many high-grade and traditional establishments, the check may come as no more than a handwritten number on a tiny piece of paper. This is often a shock.

请注意，在许多高档和传统场所，支票可能只是一张小纸片上的手写数字。这往往会让人感到震惊。

Though the new generation of sushi chefs makes a point of being customer-friendly, a top class sushi-ya can still be daunting, even for natives.

尽管新一代的寿司厨师强调对顾客友好，但即使对本地人来说，顶级的寿司店仍然令人生畏。

In fact, very few ordinary Japanese get to enjoy sushi at the absolute highest level, so if you're able to take a local friend along, don't be surprised to learn it's their first time, and they are as much in awe of the experience as you.

事实上，很少有普通的日本人能够享受到绝对最高水平的寿司，所以如果你能够带一个当地的朋友一起去，当得知他们是第一次来，而且他们和你一样对这种体验感到敬畏时，不要感到惊讶。

Magurobito (standing-style restaurant): 2-18-12 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku Tokyo; 11-9 p.m., open every day. Budget around ¥2,000-¥3,000. +81 (0) 3 3847 7139

Magurobito（站立式餐厅）：东京台东区Kaminarimon 2-18-12；晚上11-9点，每天营业。预算约为2,000-3,000日元。+81 (0) 3 3847 7139

Magurobito (seated restaurant): 1-1-11 Hoshi Building 1F, Asakusa, Taito-ku Tokyo; 11.30 a.m.-10 p.m., open every day. Budget up to around ¥4,000. +81 (0) 50 5868 1438 (reservations) +81 (3) 5828 5838 (inquiries) same restaurant name but two different experiences.

Magurobito（坐式餐厅）：东京台东区浅草1-1-11 Hoshi大厦1楼；上午11:30-晚上10:00，每天营业。预算最高为4000日元左右。+81 (0) 50 5868 1438 (预订) +81 (3) 5828 5838 (咨询) 相同的餐厅名称，但有两种不同的体验。