我怎样才能更多地了解葡萄酒呢(一)
2022-11-03 汤沐之邑 5675
正文翻译

How can I learn more about wine?

我怎样才能更多地了解葡萄酒呢?

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Alder Yarrow
How can someone start learning about wine?
Here’s what I call the Five Stages of Self Education about wine.
In the course of putting on wine dinners, attending and hosting wine tastings, and generally just drinking wine in public, I end up talking a lot with people about wine. Increasingly, many of those conversations are turning towards the subject of “wine education.” This means different things to different people, but in general, from novice to expert, people seem to want more of it. They’re not necessarily clamoring for their neighborhood stores to start holding classes, or for me to start an online wine university, but they are frequently asking me: “How can I learn more about wine?”

人们如何开始学习葡萄酒知识?
以下是我所说的关于葡萄酒的自我教育的五个阶段
在举办葡萄酒晚宴、参加和主持品酒会的过程中,通常只是在公共场合喝葡萄酒,我最终与人们谈论了很多关于葡萄酒的话题。越来越多的对话转向了“葡萄酒教育”这一主题。这对不同的人意味着不同的事情,但总的来说,从新手到专家,人们似乎想要了解更多。他们不一定强烈要求附近的商店开始开设课程,或者让我创办一所在线葡萄酒大学,但他们经常问我:“我怎样才能更多地了解葡萄酒?”

After getting over my initial mild embarrassment of being considered an authority on all things wine (yes, I’m still not quite used to it), I have typically answered the question by telling people there’s nothing wrong with taking classes if they’re that interested. Mostly I find myself suggesting that the easiest thing is to simply taste a lot more wine; but I’ve come to realize that while this is a simple way for me to answer the question, it’s only barely useful. I mean, c’mon, my day job is as a business consultant, right? I should be able to provide a little more structured approach for those who are interested in applying themselves to the subject.
Without further ado, then, I present my point of view on the stages through which any wine drinker should pass on their (deliberate or accidental) path towards being a serious student of wine, whatever that means for them. One can begin at any stage, and remain at any stage indefinitely. Some journeys never get past the first, while others determinedly progress to the last; but if you’re serious about it, this is the path I recommend taking. If you’re not serious about it, then perhaps it’s enough to know which stage you are in, and to be content with that.

在克服了最初被认为是所有葡萄酒方面的权威的尴尬之后(是的,我仍然不太习惯),我通常是这样回答这个问题的:如果他们感兴趣的话,参加课程并没有什么错。通常情况下,我觉得最简单的方法就是多喝葡萄酒;但我逐渐意识到,虽然这是我回答问题的一种简单方法,但用处不大。我是说,拜托,我的正职是商业顾问,对吧?我应该能够为那些对这个主题感兴趣的人提供一个更有条理的方法。
言归正传,我就葡萄酒饮用者(有意或无意地)在成为一名认真的葡萄酒学生的道路上所应走过的几个阶段提出我的观点,不管这对他们意味着什么。一个人可以在任何阶段开始,也可以无限期地停留在任何阶段。有些人从未走出过第一关,而有些人则决意走向最后一步;但如果你是认真的,我建议你走这条路

STAGE 1: Red, White, Pink, or Bubbles
One of the first choices most wine drinkers tend to make is whether they like red or white wine. You don’t have to decide in one direction or the other (many love both), but knowing that the two taste different — and deciding if you like one more than the other — is an important first step. Trying your hand at pink wine and sparkling wine also helps to build the foundation of preference.
STAGE 2: Varietal Schmarietal
It’s time to start learning about different types of grape varieties and how they manifest in wine. At the basic level this involves trying at least the following kinds of wines: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet, Zinfandel, and Syrah. At this stage you are just trying to learn the names, remember them, understand that they taste different, and get a sense of how those tastes vary. Order them with dinner, or buy a bottle and bring it home, but try them all and see if you develop any preference. It is especially helpful to try them side by side (several whites or several reds). A friendly wine shop owner or waiter can be useful in steering you towards the right bottle for your price range or the dish you are eating.

阶段1:红色、白色、粉色或气泡
大多数葡萄酒饮用者的首选之一往往是他们喜欢红葡萄酒还是白葡萄酒。你不必选择一种或另一种(很多人都喜欢),但知道这两种味道不同——并决定你是否更喜欢其中一种——是重要的第一步。尝试品尝粉色葡萄酒和起泡葡萄酒也有助于建立偏好的基础。
第2阶段:葡萄品种
是时候开始学习不同类型的葡萄品种以及它们在葡萄酒中的表现了。在基本层面上,这需要至少尝试以下几种葡萄酒:夏敦埃酒、白苏维浓、灰比诺、黑比诺、梅鹿汁、卡百内、馨芳葡萄酒和席拉。在这个阶段,你只是试着学习名字,记住它们,理解它们的味道不同,并了解它们的味道是如何变化的。晚餐时点它们,或者买一瓶带回家,但试一下所有的,看看你是否有什么偏好。把它们放在一起(几瓶白葡萄酒或几瓶红葡萄酒)品尝尤其有帮助。一个友好的酒店老板或服务员可以帮助你找到适合你价格范围的酒或搭配你正在吃的菜的酒。

STAGE 3: Distinctions
Once you can remember the difference between different varieties, you’ve hopefully started forming preferences. Maybe you like Merlot, but don’t care for Cabernet as much. Maybe you’ve decided that you are more of a Sauvignon Blanc person than a Chardonnay person; it’s at this point that you have a lot of ground to cover. There are lots of things to learn about: producers, vintages, regions, and let’s not forget all the other varietiess of grapes and blended wines out there. The best way to fill out this knowledge, honestly, is to taste, taste, taste. And I don’t mean just asking a sommelier to pick a random wine for you at dinner, or having a glass of something you’ve never heard of at a bar; the best education you can get at this point will come from sitting down with lots of wines and comparing them side by side.
There are two ways to proceed: either going on wine tasting trips (if that’s convenient or attractive to you) or attending or hosting tastings of your own. I much prefer the latter, mostly because it provides an opportunity to try many wines of the same type together (most wineries don’t make five different Chardonnays, for instance).

第3阶段:记住这些区别
一旦你能记住不同品种之间的差异,你就有希望开始形成偏好。也许你喜欢梅鹿汁,但不太喜欢卡百内。也许你已经决定,你更喜欢喝白苏维浓,而不喜欢喝夏敦埃酒;在这一点上,你有很多事情要做。有很多东西需要了解:生产者、年份、地区,让我们不要忘记所有其他种类的葡萄和混合葡萄酒。老实说,最好的方法就是品尝,品尝,再品尝。我的意思并不是让侍酒师在晚餐时随便为你挑选一杯酒,或者在酒吧喝一杯你从未听说过的酒;在这一点上,你能得到的最好的教育将来自于坐下来品尝大量葡萄酒,并将它们并排比较。
有两种方式可以进行:要么开启品酒之旅(如果这对你是方便或有吸引力的话),要么参加或主持自己的品酒会。我更喜欢后者,主要是因为它提供了一个机会,可以一起品尝许多同类型的葡萄酒(例如,大多数酒厂不会生产五种不同的夏敦埃酒)。

Here’s how it works: Get a bunch of (at least six) friends rounded up and have them all come over for a tasting party. Everyone should bring a bottle of wine made from the same variety, and all the bottles should be roughly in the same price range. When people arrive, one person should wrap the bottles in individual brown paper sacks or in aluminum foil with just the neck exposed, write a number on it with permanent marker, and pull the cork. Sit down at a table or in the living room, give everyone a piece of paper, a pen, a wine glass, and start tasting the wines one at a time.

下面是它的工作原理:召集一群(至少六个)朋友,让他们都来参加品酒会。每个人都应该带一瓶用同一葡萄品种酿造的葡萄酒,而且所有的酒瓶价格应该大致相同。当人们到达时,一个人应该把瓶子单独用棕色纸袋或铝箔包好,只露出瓶口,用记号笔在上面写上一个数字,然后拉上瓶塞。在桌子旁或客厅里坐下,给每个人一张纸、一支笔、一个酒杯,开始一次一杯地品尝葡萄酒。

Tasting involves a few basic steps: Look at the color of the wine, swirl it in your glass, smell it, sip a little, swish it around in your mouth, and then swallow or spit (now is a good time to learn to spit — you’ll learn much more if you do, because you’ll be able to try more wines). Write down what you think. You can give the wine a score, you can give it a thumbs-up or -down, you can write what it tastes or smells like, it doesn’t matter. Go through all the wines, then talk about them as a group and see what people liked and didn’t like. Once you’ve tasted all the wines, take them out of their wrapping one at a time, and next to the notes you made about that wine, write down the vintage year, the winery, where it’s made, and how much the bottle cost. It doesn’t really matter what you do with the notes, though I recommend hanging on to them (or better yet, keeping a notebook where you save them all) but the important thing to try and get from these activities is a growing ability to remember what style of wine you like, along with what wineries you think make good wine. You are building a sense memory for what different wines taste like.

品尝品酒包括几个基本步骤:观察葡萄酒的颜色,在杯中旋转,闻闻,啜一小口,在口中旋转,然后吞咽或吐出来(现在是学习吐出来的好时机——如果你这样做,你会学到更多,因为你可以尝试更多的葡萄酒)。把你的想法写下来。你可以给酒打分,可以给它点赞,你可以写下它的味道或气味,这都没关系。浏览所有的葡萄酒,然后作为一个小组讨论它们,看看人们喜欢什么和不喜欢什么。一旦你品尝了所有的葡萄酒,就把它们从包装中取出来,一次取出一个,在这款酒旁做注释旁,写下年份、酒庄、酿造地以及瓶子的价格。你对这些笔记做什么并不重要,尽管我建议你坚持下来(或者更好的是,把它们都记在笔记本上),但从这些活动中尝试和获得的重要东西是,你越来越有能力记住你喜欢什么样的葡萄酒,以及你认为哪些酒庄酿造出好的葡萄酒。你正在建立一种不同葡萄酒味道的感官记忆。

Tastings like this are the best way to really understand a variety or a particular region, as well as to decide fairly conclusively whether you like a particular type of wine. Obviously, the more flexibility you have in the dollar amount you can spend on these tastings, the more you have an opportunity to really understand the range of possibilities in a given type of wine.
At this stage it’s particularly useful to join a wine club, which will result in a couple of bottles being delivered each month for you to try. Drink them and use the ones that are good as launching pads into new regions, producers, and varietals.

这样的品尝是真正了解一个品种或一个特定地区的酒的最好方法,也是确定你是否喜欢某一特定类型的葡萄酒的最好方法。很明显,你在这些品酒上花费的美元金额越机动性,你就越有机会真正了解特定类型葡萄酒的各种可能性。
在这个阶段,加入一个葡萄酒俱乐部是特别有用的,这将导致每个月都会有几瓶酒送给你去尝试。喝下它们,用它们作为跳板,尝试新的地区,新的生产者和新的品种的酒。

STAGE 4: Depth.
The exploration of different wines, varietals, producers, and styles in stage three can continue for a long time. There are a lot of wines out there, and there’s a lot to learn. The fact that Italy has over 1,000 different types of grapes is enough to give a serious student of wine a migraine. But once you have built a sense of what a good (to you) Chardonnay tastes like, or whether you like the peppery or jammy style of Zinfandel, it’s time to start building some depth to your knowledge.
At this point it’s not enough to know how certain wines taste — you need to start learning why. This is where the real effort of a self-education comes in, and where you need to locate resources for yourself, whether they are web sites, books, friendly wine shops, tour operators, classes, or staff at a favorite tasting room. At this point, in order to progress further, you need to build knowledge in several areas:

第4阶段:深入了解
第三阶段对不同葡萄酒、品种、生产者和风格的探索可以持续很长时间。那里有很多葡萄酒可以了解,还有很多需要学习的东西。意大利有1000多种不同类型的葡萄,这一事实足以让一个认真研究葡萄酒的学生产生偏头痛。但是,一旦你对一杯好的(对你来说)夏敦埃酒的味道有了一定的了解,或者你是否喜欢辛芬黛的辛辣或果酱风格,现在是时候开始深入了解你的知识了。
在这一点上,仅仅知道某些葡萄酒的味道是不够的——你需要开始了解原因。这是自我教育的真正努力所在,也是你需要为自己找到资源的地方,无论是网站、书籍、友好的葡萄酒店、旅游经营者、班级,还是最喜欢的品尝室的工作人员。此时,为了进一步进步,需要在以下几个方面积累知识:

Vocabulary
You need to start learning the terms that are used to describe wine: what ‘lees’ are, what ‘corked’ means, what the difference is between an appellation-specific wine and a non-appellation wine. Great sources for this include books, friends who are more knowledgeable than you, and more in-depth wine appreciation classes.
Winemaking
You need to have a rudimentary understanding of how wine is made: picking, de-stemming, crushing, cold soaking, primary fermentation, secondary (malolactic) fermentation, barrel aging (or not), and bottling. You obviously don’t need to be able to actually do it, nor do you have to be able to teach a course in it, but you should know in what order the steps are, and the basic choices a winemaker makes during the process: to de-stem or not to de-stem, to barrel ferment or tank ferment, etc. The best way to learn this is to go a winery and get a tour of the facilities from someone who can explain the process along the way. The introductory wine books by people like Andrea Immer or Hugh Johnson (or even Wine for Dummies) also provide excellent information.

词汇
你需要开始学习用来描述葡萄酒的术语:“酒糟”是什么,“软木塞”是什么意思,特定酒类和非特定酒类之间有什么区别。这方面不错的来源包括书籍、比你知识渊博的朋友,以及更深入的葡萄酒鉴赏课程。
酿酒
你需要对葡萄酒的制作有一个初步的了解:采摘、去梗、压碎、冷浸、初级发酵、二级(苹果酸)发酵、桶陈酿(或不陈酿)和装瓶。显然,你不需要能够真正做到这一点,也不需要能够教授这门课程,但你应该知道步骤的顺序,以及酿酒师在这一过程中做出的基本选择:去梗或不去梗、桶发酵或罐发酵等。了解这一点的最好方法是去一家酒厂,从一个能解释过程的人那里参观一下设施。安德烈亚·伊梅尔(Andrea Immer)或休·约翰逊(Hugh Johnson)(甚至是《傻瓜的葡萄酒》(wine for Dummies))等介绍葡萄酒的书籍也提供了极好的信息。

Wine regions
You need to start learning what wines come from different regions, and to start tackling the intimidating French system to understand that Burgundy means Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, that Bordeaux means a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petite Verdot, and Malbec. Barolo comes from Piedmont , Italy . Australian Shiraz is the same grape but a different style than Rhone or California Syrah. The best method is to subscribe to a decent wine magazine like Decanter, Wine Enthusiast, or Wine Spectator, which throughout the course of a year typically publish stories about the major wine regions of the world, or to simply spend a lot of time on the websites of these and other wine writing outlets. You should also start consciously trying wine from these areas. By this point you shouldn’t be afraid to occasionally spend $20, $30, or even $40 on a bottle of wine (though your everyday wine drinking may be at a more affordable level).
Components of taste and aroma
You also need to learn how to go beyond deciding whether you like a wine or not, or that one is better than another. You need to start building a vocabulary to describe what you are tasting; to learn to recognize flavors and aromas, as well as flaws in wine; and to start matching those with your growing understanding of producers, regions, and years. You also want to learn what happens to the flavors of wines over time. One of the best aids to help you build vocabulary is an aroma wheel or tasting chart, a device usually sold at larger wine shops that lists the various flavors and aromas in wine. You’d be surprised how much easier they make it for you to come up with the right words to describe what you’re tasting or smelling. After a while you won’t need this device every time you sit down to seriously taste wine, but at first it’s incredibly useful.

葡萄酒产区
你需要开始了解来自不同地区的葡萄酒,并开始应对令人生畏的法国体系,以了解勃艮第意味着黑比诺和夏敦埃酒,波尔多葡萄酒意味着卡百内、梅鹿汁、 品丽珠、味而多和马尔贝克的混合味。巴罗洛葡萄酒来自意大利皮埃蒙特。澳大利亚“Shiraz”与罗纳或加州“Syrah”是同一种葡萄,但风格不同。最好的方法是订阅一本像样的葡萄酒杂志,如《醒酒师》、《葡萄酒爱好者》或《葡萄酒观察家》,这本杂志在一年中通常会刊登世界主要葡萄酒产区的故事,或者花大量时间浏览这些和其他葡萄酒写作网站。你也应该有意识地尝试这些地区的葡萄酒。到这一阶段上,你不应该害怕偶尔花20美元、30美元甚至40美元买一瓶葡萄酒(尽管你每天喝的葡萄酒可能更便宜)。
味道和香气成分
你还需要学习如何超越判断你是否喜欢一款酒,或者判断这款酒比另一款好。你需要开始建立一个词汇来描述你正在品尝的东西;学会识别葡萄酒的风味和香味,以及葡萄酒的缺陷;并开始将其与你对生产者、地区和年份的日益了解相匹配。你还想了解随着时间的推移,葡萄酒的味道会发生什么变化。帮助你建立词汇量的最好工具之一是一个香气轮或品尝图表,这是一个通常在大型葡萄酒店出售的设备,列出葡萄酒中的各种口味和香味。你会惊讶地发现,他们让你更容易想出正确的词语来描述你的味道或气味。一段时间后,你不会每次坐下来认真品尝葡萄酒时都需要这个设备,但一开始它是非常有用的。

So, that seems like a pretty daunting list of stuff doesn’t it? It’s a lot, but you can build this knowledge slowly.
First, you need to start taking notes; not just the quick notes like those you took at the group wine tastings you attended earlier (and still may be attending) in your education, but detailed tasting notes that describe wines by their color, their aroma, and by their taste and feel in your mouth. You also need to start writing down as much specific information as possible about the wines you drink. If you know or learned something about how it was made, write it down. If you know anything about where it was grown and what the weather was like, write it down. You are building a wine journal that may or may not be something you reference in the future, but most importantly, you are forcing yourself to pay attention to wine in a detailed and systematic fashion.
It is at this stage that I recommend people start buying wine deliberately with the intention of keeping it for some time. Even if it is not economically feasible to purchase wines that are guaranteed to improve with age, it is still important to learn what time does to a wine, and the easiest way to do this is cellar it yourself. Buy a case of a wine that you’ve tasted and liked, and that you or someone else has determined will actually survive a few years. Wait a few years and then start opening a bottle every year, comparing it to the previous year’s notes.

所以,这似乎是一份令人望而生畏的清单,不是吗?虽然很多,但你可以慢慢积累这些知识。
首先,你需要开始做笔记;不仅仅是你在之前(现在可能还在参加)参加的集体品酒会上所做的快速笔记,还有详细的品酒笔记,这些笔记通过葡萄酒的颜色、香气、口感和口感来描述葡萄酒。你还需要开始写下关于你喝的葡萄酒的尽可能多的具体信息。如果你知道或了解它是如何制作的,请写下来。如果你知道它生长在哪里,天气如何,就把它写下来。你正在建立一本葡萄酒杂志,将来可能会参考,也可能不会参考,但最重要的是,你正在强迫自己以详细和系统的方式关注葡萄酒。
正是在这个阶段,我建议人们开始刻意购买葡萄酒,并打算保存一段时间。即使在经济上不可行的情况下,购买的葡萄酒保证会随着时间的推移而改善,但了解时间对葡萄酒的影响仍然很重要,而最简单的方法就是自己窖藏。买一箱你已经尝过并且喜欢的葡萄酒,并且你或其他人已经确定它实际上可以存活几年。等待几年,然后开始每年打开一瓶,与前一年的笔记进行比较。

STAGE 5: Connoisseurship
Frankly, many people are economically prevented from ever reaching this stage. The level of experience that is built at this level can only come with the means to actually purchase and drink wines with a consistency, breadth, and depth across the major wine regions and across many vintage years. In this stage you actively seek out and experience the full range of the wine world, and in doing so you build and deepen your personal preferences for wine and the understanding of the standards against which all wines are measured . You must taste the First Growths of Bordeaux in current vintages and in past years, if only to know whether you like them or not; likewise the great wines from all over the world. You have to know what a great aged Burgundy tastes like, what top-notch Barolo and Brunello feel like on the palate, what makes for a world-class Riesling, and more.
In this stage you should own and actively maintain a cellar that is geared towards your enjoyment and continued education. You purchase wines to drink now, and also wines to deliberately lay down for years, and quite possibly may buy wine for investment purposes as well. Most people who have gotten to this point in their self-education are so passionate about wine, they can’t help but collect it.

第五阶段:鉴赏力
坦率地说,许多人在经济上无法达到这一阶段。在这一水平上建立的经验水平只能与实际购买和饮用葡萄酒的方法相结合,这些葡萄酒在主要葡萄酒产区和许多年份都具有一致性、广度和深度。在这一阶段,你会积极探索和体验葡萄酒世界的各个方面,在这一过程中,你会建立并加深自己对葡萄酒的个人偏好,以及对衡量所有葡萄酒的标准的理解。你必须在当前年份和过去几年中品尝波尔多第一代葡萄酒,如果只是为了知道你是否喜欢它们;同样来自世界各地的佳酿。你必须知道一个伟大的勃艮第葡萄酒的味道,顶级的巴罗洛和布鲁内洛葡萄酒的口感,世界级的雷司令葡萄酒的制作过程,等等。
在这个阶段,你应该拥有并积极维护一个适合你享受和继续教育的酒窖。你现在购买葡萄酒是为了喝,购买葡萄酒也是为刻意保存多年,购买葡萄酒也很有可能是为了投资。大多数在自我教育中走到这一步的人都对葡萄酒充满热情,他们忍不住要收藏起来。

You are not only continuing to learn the names of wineries and their wines, but also learning to pay attention to who the winemakers are, and how specific vineyards taste, independent of wineries and wines. You should have moved beyond finding your favorite wine shops, and should be finding your favorite importers instead.
At this point (though certainly relevant and fun earlier) it is important to actually visit your favorite wine regions, and learn not just about how wines are made, but how they are grown. The serious student will be learning about how geology, topology and climate affect grapes and the implications for wine as a finished product.
Finally, either as a means to push themselves into this stage, or as entertainment or avocation, some people choose to study for and receive one of the advanced certifications in wine — either a Master Sommelier degree or a Master of Wine. These are particularly helpful if you are interested in working in the wine or restaurant business, but for some people they are just a way to learn as much as possible about a subject for which they are passionate.

你不仅要继续学习酒庄及其葡萄酒的名称,还要学习关注酿酒师是谁,以及特定葡萄园的味道如何,与酒庄和葡萄酒无关。你应该超越寻找你最喜欢的葡萄酒店,而是寻找你最喜爱的进口商。
在这一点上(虽然之前肯定是相关的和有趣的),重要的是要真正参观你最喜欢的葡萄酒产区,不仅要了解葡萄酒是如何制作的,还要了解它们是如何种植的。认真的学生将学习地质学、拓扑学和气候如何影响葡萄,以及葡萄酒作为成品的意义。
最后,无论是作为推动自己进入这个阶段的一种手段,还是作为娱乐或业余爱好,一些人选择学习并获得葡萄酒方面的高级认证——侍酒师硕士学位或葡萄酒硕士学位。如果你对葡萄酒或餐馆生意感兴趣,这些都是特别有用的,但对一些人来说,它们只是一种尽可能多地了解他们热爱的主题的方法。

Obviously, there are no clear dividing lines between these stages, rules about their order, or the activities and knowledge that must be part of one versus another. I have a friend who made his first forays into learning about wine by drinking aged Bordeaux out of his father’s cellar. My grandfather passed away last year having only really gotten to the point of deciding that pink wine was his preference. I suppose there’s probably even a stage six which might be called “The Winemaker” for people who have learned enough to actually make stuff that the rest of us would love to drink, or can advise the people that do.
Figure out where you are, then decide where you are going, and make sure that no matter how you do it, you have fun along the way
I developed these stages originally for an article at The Gilded Fork.

这些阶段之间显然没有明确的分界线,关于它们的顺序的规则,或者必须作为一个阶段与另一个阶段的一部分的活动和知识。我有一个朋友,他从父亲的酒窖里喝了陈年波尔多酒,开始了他对葡萄酒的第一次尝试。祖父去年去世了,当时他才真正意识到自己喜欢粉红色的葡萄酒。我想可能还有第六个阶段,它可能被称为“酿酒师”,适合那些已经学会了制作我们其他人都喜欢喝的东西的人,或者可以为那些喜欢喝的人提供建议的人。
弄清楚你在哪个阶段,然后决定你要去哪个阶段,并确保无论你怎么做,你都会玩得很开心。
我最初为《镀金叉》的一篇文章开发了这些舞台。

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