童年最爱的美食
2022-12-31 遐怪 8011
正文翻译
A Childhood Favorite Reimagined

童年最爱的美食

Harissa and lamb, pork and fennel, and vegan mushroom with leeks and farro make sophisticated fillings for the humble Australian sausage roll.

腌牛肉、羊肉、猪肉、茴香、素食蘑菇、韭菜和法罗,这些都是不起眼的澳大利亚香肠卷复杂的馅料。


These Australian sausage rolls are inspired by those made at Bourke Street Bakery near Madison Square Park in Manhattan.
Warm and flaky sausage rolls, stuffed with savory meat and striped with ketchup, may not have been school cafeteria fare in Brooklyn while I was growing up. But they were in Australia for Paul Allam, where, as a kid, he used to long for one to appear at his primary school lunch table, tucked into a crumpled brown paper bag, steaming and a little soggy in the best possible way.

这些澳大利亚香肠卷的灵感,来自曼哈顿麦迪逊广场公园附近的伯克街面包店。
在我成长的那个年代,热乎乎的薄片香肠卷,里面塞满了美味的肉,还带着番茄酱,也许是布鲁克林学校食堂没有的食物。但对于澳大利亚的保罗·阿拉姆来说,这是最好的选择。小时候,他常常希望自己小学的午餐桌上出现一个这样的美食,塞在一个皱巴巴的棕色纸袋里,冒着热气,还有点湿乎乎的。

Now, as a professional baker and an owner of Bourke Street Bakery, Mr. Allam’s goal has been to tweak the humble sausage roll into something reflecting his adult sensibilities, using better ingredients and more sophisticated flavor combinations. At the Manhattan outpost of his Sydney-based bakery group, he offers a heady fennel-scented pork roll, a mellow turkey-cranberry roll and a rotating sextion of vegetable rolls, filled with the likes of eggplant with chiles or spinach with feta.

现在,作为一名专业面包师和伯克街面包店的老板,阿拉姆的目标是用更好的配料和更复杂的口味组合,把不起眼的香肠卷改造成能反映他成熟情感的东西。他的面包房集团总部位于悉尼,在曼哈顿的分店里,他提供令人兴奋的茴香味猪肉卷、醇香的火鸡-蔓越莓卷和旋转的蔬菜卷,里面有茄子和辣椒,菠菜和羊乳酪。

But it was the harissa-tinged lamb version, laced with a smattering of currants and almonds, that I fell head over heels for. So much so that when I put subway rides on a pandemic-temporary hold, I called Mr. Allam for the recipe.

不过,我最喜欢的还是那种带哈利萨风味的羊肉,外加少许葡萄干和杏仁。以至于当我疫情期间暂停乘坐地铁时,我给阿拉姆先生打了电话,向他要了配方。


These lamb sausage rolls have a mix of heat and sweetness.
He was happy to oblige — with the caveat that his sausage rolls were a bit of a departure from the ones found in school cafeterias, not to mention in petrol stations throughout Australia.

这些羊肉香肠卷混合了热量和甜味。
他很乐意答应——但警告说,他的香肠卷和学校食堂里的有点不一样,更别提澳大利亚各地加油站里的了。

“The traditional sausage rolls you got at school were made from cartilage, and the stuff they swept up from the floor,” he told me, possibly joking. “If you went to a bourgeoise school maybe you got celery. It didn’t matter, it still tasted great.Food memories from childhood are very strong, they stay with you,” he added.

“你在学校里吃到的传统香肠卷是用软骨做的,还有他们从地板上扫来的东西,”他告诉我,可能是开玩笑。“如果你上的是中产阶级学校,可能还会有芹菜。没关系,它还是很好吃的。童年的食物记忆非常强烈,它们陪伴着你。”他补充道。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


I understood perfectly, I told him, remembering my beloved elementary school egg salad sandwiches … and, you know, Proust’s madeleines.

我完全理解,我告诉他,想起了我小学时最爱的鸡蛋沙拉三明治……还有,普鲁斯特的玛德琳蛋糕。

Before we even hung up the phone, my inbox pinged. Mr. Allam had sent the lamb roll recipe, along with another for the pork fennel rolls, which, he noted, ran neck and neck in popularity with the lamb version. Maybe I’d want to try them both?

我们还没挂电话,我的收件箱就响了。阿拉姆先生发来了羊肉卷的食谱,还有猪肉茴香卷的食谱。他说,猪肉茴香卷和羊肉卷一样受欢迎。也许我两种都想试试?

Being fairly new to the world of sausage rolls, I was happy to explore. In the end I still like the lamb, with its mix of heat and sweetness, best. But the brawny pork rolls were also delicious, infused with anise-flavored fennel, garlic and thyme.

作为制作香肠卷的新手,我很乐意去探索。最后我还是喜欢羊肉,它的热量和甜味的混合是最好的。但粗壮的猪肉卷也很美味,里面加入了茴香、大蒜和百里香。

Although Mr. Allam said I could use flaky pie dough if I wanted, puff pastry is the classic sausage roll crust. Naturally, Mr. Allam makes his own with loads of good butter. And he is also working on a vegan version using plant-based butter.

尽管阿拉姆先生说,如果我愿意,我可以用薄饼面团,但松饼是一种经典的香肠卷皮。当然,阿拉姆先生自己做会用大量上等黄油。他还在用植物黄油制作素食版本。


Find vegan puff pastry, and you can make a plant-based version filled with sautéed mushrooms, leeks and farro.Credit...

找到一种素食酥皮,你也可以做一种蔬菜版本的,里面加入炒蘑菇、韭菜和法罗。

I substituted a good, all-butter brand of frozen puff pastry, and the rolls baked up beautifully bronzed and airy. But feel free to use your favorite pie dough recipe here instead. Or, if you’re in the mood for a challenge, homemade puff pastry would be the sausage roll pinnacle.

我换了一种优质的全黄油牌的冷冻酥皮,面包卷烤成漂亮的古铜色,并且很松软。不过你也可以用你最喜欢的馅饼面团配方来代替。或者,如果你想挑战,自制的松饼卷是顶尖的香肠卷。

As for the filling, you could also substitute other ground meats like turkey or chicken, for the lamb or the pork.

至于馅料,你也可以用火鸡或鸡肉等其他肉馅代替羊肉或猪肉。

Not wanting to stop with just meat, I experimented with several vegetarian versions, too. My favorite combined sautéed mushrooms and leeks with chewy farro to thicken the mix and almond butter to make it creamy. Even better, you can turn this vegan by using pastry made with plant-based butter (Pepperidge Farm makes a widely available one).

我不想只吃肉,也尝试了几个素食版本。我最喜欢的是把蘑菇、韭菜和耐嚼的香菜混合在一起,使混合物变浓稠,再加上杏仁黄油,使其呈奶油状。更妙的是,你可以用植物黄油做的糕点(“非凡农庄”就有一种很常见的植物黄油)来转变这种素食主义。

Although Mr. Allam swears that ketchup (called tomato sauce in Australia) is the ideal accompaniment for sausage rolls, I didn’t use it on any of them. Childhood food memories can only get you so far.

尽管阿拉姆先生发誓番茄酱是香肠卷理想的配菜,但我没有在任何一种香肠卷上加番茄酱。童年的食物记忆只能给你带来这么多。

评论翻译
ms
My introduction to sausage rolls was in London, via the frozen foods store, Iceland.

香肠卷是我在伦敦通过冰岛的冷冻食品商店认识的。

Jack Smith
Aren't sausage rolls English? What a weird type of cultural appropriation.

“香肠卷”不是英语吗?真是一种奇怪的文化剽窃。

SE
Cultural appropriation? You do know that Australia was basically British for a long time, right? Just as Brits put their own spin on ‘curry,’ Australians have put their own spin on sausage rolls.
And Cornish people may not like Londoners’ curry, veg, pork, whatever, take on Cornish pasties, but that’s life. It’s all pastry filling.

文化剽窃?你知道在很长一段时间里,澳大利亚基本上是英国的殖民地,对吧?就像英国人给“咖喱”加了自己的spin(旋转?)一样,澳大利亚人也给香肠卷加了自己的spin。康沃尔人可能不喜欢伦敦人吃的咖喱、蔬菜、猪肉之类的康沃尔馅饼,但这就是生活。都是糕点馅料。

Pank
Sticking culturally inappropriate ingredients into an existing dish is not sophistication. It is tastelessness and stupidity.

在现有的菜肴中加入文化上不相宜的食材并不算复杂。真是乏味又愚蠢。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


HMV
Sausage rolls have been a staple in England for hundreds of years.

几百年来,香肠卷一直是英国的主食。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Alex
Huge wave of nostalgia washed over me while reading this. I, too, wrote my order on many a brown paper bag and plopped in a gold dollar coin, to get back a delicious steaming sausage roll from the tuckshop come lunch time. Always with tomato sauce (the kind in packets with the X slits on top). An OAK malt vanilla milk. And a finger bun if my parents were feeling generous. Living in the US for 10 years now, sometimes I forget these memories...

读到这里,一股强烈的怀旧之情席卷了我。我也在一个棕色的纸袋上写下了我的订单,然后扑通一声放进了一枚一美元的硬币,想在午餐时间从快餐店买一个美味的热气腾腾的香肠卷。总是用番茄酱(那种装在包里,上面有X条缝的)。橡木麦芽香草牛奶。如果我父母慷慨的话,我还可以把手指盘起来。我在美国住了10年了,有时会忘记这些记忆……

Griffin
What is the difference between vegan butter and margarine?

纯素黄油和人造黄油的区别是什么?

Bill
Sausage Rolls are comfort on steroids. They are, (and have been for very many years,) ubiquitous downunder. We even can get the fancy ones like in the recipes here now.

香肠卷含有类固醇,吃起来很舒服。它们在澳大利亚无处不在(而且已经存在了很多年)。我们甚至可以在这里的食谱中找到一些很好的菜式。

Lozza
And don't forget the classic Aussie anthem...
"It's a long way to the shop if you want a sausage roll."

别忘了经典的澳洲国歌…
“如果你想要香肠卷,去商店要走很长一段路。”

Not Rocket Science
Thanks for the vegan recipe. More please.

谢谢你的素食食谱。请多来些。

Maria
I've seen these puff pastry rolls in Chinese bakeries across NYC. Not new to this city. But I guess who's selling it and where it's sold makes a difference to this paper.

我在纽约的中国面包店看到过这种酥皮卷。对这个城市并不陌生。但我猜是谁卖的,在哪里卖的,对这份报纸都有影响。

NYer
Sausage rolls!!! We LOVE sausage rolls! We order them in large numbers from Myers and Keswick and put them in the freezer and take them out as a little treat every now and then - the best guilty pleasure possible! I just sent my hubby this article - time for him to try making them himself given how much he adores them....:)

香肠卷! !我们喜欢香肠卷!我们从迈尔斯和凯瑟克那里大量订购,把它们放进冰箱,然后时不时地拿出来当作小点心——这可能是最好的负疚的快乐!我刚刚把这篇文章寄发了我丈夫——是时候让他自己制作了,因为他非常喜欢吃……

Julie
Hey Melissa
We never had a lunch table at primary school, growing up in Australia. It was, grab your lunch from home, and find somewhere to sit, if you were lucky.

嘿,梅丽莎,
我们在澳大利亚长大,小学的时候从来没有吃过午餐。如果幸运的话,你可以从家里抓起午餐,找个地方坐下。
原创翻译:龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Mary from Terry, MS
We commonly call these 'pigs in a blanket" and use beef hotdogs or cocktail wieners as a shortcut. Lately I've been experimenting with alternative fillings including kielbasa, spicy venison sausage, bratwurst, andouille and even dill pickle spears so these recipes are really exciting to me. Guess what's for lunch tomorrow?!

我们通常称这些香肠卷为“毯子里的猪”,并使用牛肉热狗或鸡尾酒香肠来取巧。最近我一直在尝试用其他材料做馅料,包括波兰熏肠、辣鹿肉香肠、德式香肠、熏肠,甚至腌黄瓜,所以这些食谱对我来说真的很令人兴奋。猜猜明天的午餐是什么?

sparty b
sure looks good, but i would never try making it. some things are best left to the pros.

看起来确实不错,但我绝对不会做。有些事情最好留给专业人士去做。

Suzanne F
Lest readers be scared by the thought of making their own pastry: The recipe lixed to is much faster and easier to make than traditional puff pastry. It is more usually referred to as "rough puff." No layering a block of butter before folding, no chilling after folding after chilling after folding. Just mix, fold, chill, and get on with it. And it works beautifully in a recipe like this.

以免读者被自己制作的酥皮糕点吓到:与传统的酥皮糕点相比,这个食谱制作起来要快得多,也容易得多。它通常被称为“粗糙的泡芙”。折叠前不要放黄油,折叠后不要冷却。混合,折叠,冷却,然后继续。在这样的食谱中非常好用。

D S
Bourke Street Bakery's sausage roll is purely delicious and the craftsmanship is evident. Bourke Street's entire menu of homemade breads, pastries and salads are some of the best in town. Their coffee's are great, too. I just wished I lived closer! Come to Brooklyn!

伯克街面包店的香肠卷非常美味,制作工艺是显而易见的。伯克街的所有自制面包、糕点和沙拉都是镇上最好的。他们的咖啡也很棒。我真希望我住得近一点!来布鲁克林!

Lester Khan
Looks divine - can't understand how to stuff the pastry though. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Roll to 1/8 inch then stuff? Directions sound as though I'm rolling the dough into a spiral that is 1/8 inch thick. . . then what? Unroll it and stuff it? Sorry, cannot understand this very critical step.

看起来很棒,不知道怎么往糕点里塞东西。也许有人能指点我一下?卷起1/8英寸,然后塞满东西?用法听起来好像我在把面团卷成1/8英寸厚的螺旋状…然后呢?把它展开然后填满?对不起,不能理解这非常关键的一步。

Em
@Lester Khan
I think you roll out the pastry and you can either put the sausage mixture in the middle and fold the sides into the middle, or put it slightly off centre and roll the pastry around it. That's how I've always made sausage rolls, but interested to hear if there are other techniques!

我认为你可以把面团擀开,把香肠混合物放在中间,然后把两边对折到中间,或者稍微偏离中心,把面团卷起来。这就是我做香肠卷的方法,但是我很想知道是否还有其他的方法。

Tuvw Xyz
Vert nice to learn that one's tastes are shared by the co-readers of Food Section. My wife makes wonderful rolls of puffed pastry with beef frankfurters encased therein, which I gladly devour hot or cold at any time of day.

很高兴得知自己的口味被美食版块的读者所分享。我妻子会做非常棒的松饼卷,里面夹着牛肉法兰克福香肠。一天中的任何时候,不管冷还是热,我都会甘之如饴。

Philip Brown
I can remember when sausage rolls were all home made, even the ones in bakeries. The filling was minced in the kitchen, by hand. Fresh beef, lamb, pork, onion and breadcrumbs, plus any flavouring ingredients the cook chose to add. Pastry was flaky not puff pastry.
The best sausage rolls are still home made. Especially if the cook has a sixty-year old copy of the CWA* Cookbook.*Country Women's Association

我还记得香肠卷都是家里做的,甚至是面包店做的。馅料是在厨房里用手剁碎的。新鲜的牛肉、羊肉、猪肉、洋葱和面包屑,加上厨师选择添加的任何香料。
最好的香肠卷仍然是自家做的。特别是如果厨师有一本60年前的“国家妇女协会”出版的烹饪书的话。

Pie Perbole
Minnesota
Oct. 17
I make Pigs in A Blanket all the time using a sturdy, delicious cream cheese pastry dough and a variety of fillings...basically whatever I have on hand. The cream cheese gives the dough a slightly tangy flavor and a wonderful mouth feel. I'm looking forward to trying a couple of these filling recipes next.

我一直在做这种“毯子里的猪”,用的是坚固美味的奶油奶酪面团和各种馅料……基本上是我手头的任何东西。奶油芝士给面团一种轻微的香味和美妙的口感。我期待着接下来能尝试一下这种馅料配方。

Katrina
I’ve eaten hundreds if not thousands of sausage rolls growing up in Australia. Now they give me shocking heartburn: but if a tempting, homemade version comes my way it’s worth it. Next time I’m in New York....

我在澳大利亚长大,吃过成百上千的香肠卷。现在它们让我遭受可怕的心痛:但如果一个诱人的自制版出现在我面前,心痛也值得。下次我来纽约的时候…

Tuvw Xyz
Evanston, Illinois
@ Katrina Florida
Beware of New York if you developed heartburn after growing up on Australian sausage rolls. Heartburn may be a result of a somatic mutation, of no consequence to your general physiology. :-))
Stay well!

如果你在吃澳大利亚香肠卷长大后出现了胃灼热的症状,那你可要当心纽约了。胃灼热可能是体细胞突变的结果,对你的一般生理没有任何影响。保重!

Passion for Peaches
Left Coast
Thank you for offering a vegetable version. Almond butter is an interesting addition that never would have occurred to me.
I love savory pies of all kinds. I remember buying amazing, rich, herby sausage rolls from a French bakery when I was a child, and enjoying minced meat pasties with parsley sauce on trips to the U.K. I have fond memories of fish pies eaten in the Pacific Northwest, western Canada and Alaska, and “meat” pies (veggie version, which usually invoked peas) in New Zealand. And then there are all of the various pastry encased meat treats you find in Chinese cuisine, and the empanadas of Latin America, and Caribbean hand pies. And knishes, which you might call a dumpling, but is really a mini savory pie. Wrap some flaky dough around a savory filling, and I am a fan.

谢谢你提供蔬菜版。杏仁黄油是我从来没有想到过的有趣的添加品。
我喜欢各种美味的馅饼。我记得当我还是个孩子的时候,我从一家法国面包店买了一份美味、油腻的香肠卷,去英国旅行的时候,我也喜欢吃加了欧芹酱的肉馅馅饼。我还记得在太平洋西北部、加拿大西部和阿拉斯加吃的鱼馅饼,还有新西兰的“肉”馅饼(素食版,通常会叫豌豆)。此外,你还可以在中国菜、拉丁美洲的肉馅卷饼和加勒比海的手馅饼中找到各式各样的肉包点心。还有你可能会叫它饺子,但实际上是一种迷你美味派。在美味的馅料外面包上一些薄面团,我很喜欢。

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