为什么冲浪这么难学( 一)
正文翻译
Why is surfing so difficult to learn?
为什么冲浪这么难学?
Why is surfing so difficult to learn?
为什么冲浪这么难学?
评论翻译
Alastair Haldane, Company Director
Alastair Haldane，公司董事
Alastair Haldane，公司董事
Surfing is one of the hardest sports to master. 25 years on since I first picked up a board, and I’m still trying to figure it out. The key reason for it being so difficult, is it doesn’t allow for the systematic repetition required to drill a new skill into the brain. You can’t simply go out and repeat standing up on a wave like you can drill a forehand tennis swing over and over, or a left jab right hook combo in a mirror.
Varying environmental elements such as swell size, direction, wind, tide, sandbank position, competitive crowds all play into making sure that whenever you go down to the local beach to give it a another try, you’ll be greeted with completely different conditions. Soccer pitches and basket ball courts always have the same dimensions, the ocean does not.
冲浪是最难掌握的运动之一。从我第一次拿起冲浪板到现在已经25年了，我还在努力弄明白。它如此困难的关键原因是，没有考虑到在大脑中灌输一项新技能是需要系统性重复的，而你不能像在镜子里反复练习正手网球挥杆或左击右勾组合那样，简单地走出去，在波浪上重复站立。
不同的环境因素，如涌浪大小、方向、风、潮汐、沙洲位置、竞争激烈的人群，都在确保每当你去当地海滩再试一次时，都会遇到完全不同的情况。足球场和篮球场总是有相同的尺寸，海洋却没有。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Varying environmental elements such as swell size, direction, wind, tide, sandbank position, competitive crowds all play into making sure that whenever you go down to the local beach to give it a another try, you’ll be greeted with completely different conditions. Soccer pitches and basket ball courts always have the same dimensions, the ocean does not.
冲浪是最难掌握的运动之一。从我第一次拿起冲浪板到现在已经25年了，我还在努力弄明白。它如此困难的关键原因是，没有考虑到在大脑中灌输一项新技能是需要系统性重复的，而你不能像在镜子里反复练习正手网球挥杆或左击右勾组合那样，简单地走出去，在波浪上重复站立。
不同的环境因素，如涌浪大小、方向、风、潮汐、沙洲位置、竞争激烈的人群，都在确保每当你去当地海滩再试一次时，都会遇到完全不同的情况。足球场和篮球场总是有相同的尺寸，海洋却没有。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Another key element is fitness. To be a reasonably good surfer above average fitness is required. The friends I’ve taught surfing that learn the quickest are generally in good shape, it goes without saying if you’re fit, you’re able to paddle faster, catch waves easier and have more stamina to stay out there and improve your skills. One friend, in particular was standing up in his first lesson, he stayed out there for an hour and caught about 10 decent waves in the whitewash, standing up all the way to the beach. He is also a state grade tennis player, and AFL player so this background really helped him.
另一个关键因素是健康。要想成为一名相当优秀的冲浪运动员，身体素质必须高于平均水平。我教过的那些学习速度最快的冲浪朋友通常身体状况良好，不用说，如果你身体健康，你就能更快地划桨，更容易地利用海浪，并且有更多的耐力呆在那里，提高你的技能。尤其是有一位朋友，他在上第一课时就站了起来，而且在那里呆了一个小时，在白色的湖水中捕捉了大约10个像样的波浪，一直站到海滩。他也是一名国家级网球运动员，也是美国足球联盟球员，所以这种背景真的帮助了他。
另一个关键因素是健康。要想成为一名相当优秀的冲浪运动员，身体素质必须高于平均水平。我教过的那些学习速度最快的冲浪朋友通常身体状况良好，不用说，如果你身体健康，你就能更快地划桨，更容易地利用海浪，并且有更多的耐力呆在那里，提高你的技能。尤其是有一位朋友，他在上第一课时就站了起来，而且在那里呆了一个小时，在白色的湖水中捕捉了大约10个像样的波浪，一直站到海滩。他也是一名国家级网球运动员，也是美国足球联盟球员，所以这种背景真的帮助了他。
I’ve played plenty of other sports over the years, including tennis, soccer, martial arts, kitesurfing and golf. Surfing still ranks above all of them in terms of difficulty to learn, but this is probably why it is so addictive and rewarding once you do start to progress. Good luck if you decide to take it on!
这些年来我参加了很多其他运动，包括网球、足球、武术、风筝冲浪和高尔夫。就学习难度而言，冲浪仍然排在所有人的前面，但这可能就是为什么一旦你开始进步，冲浪会让你欲罢不能和让你觉得值得的原因。如果你决定接受挑战，祝你好运！
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
这些年来我参加了很多其他运动，包括网球、足球、武术、风筝冲浪和高尔夫。就学习难度而言，冲浪仍然排在所有人的前面，但这可能就是为什么一旦你开始进步，冲浪会让你欲罢不能和让你觉得值得的原因。如果你决定接受挑战，祝你好运！
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Kevin Fleming, Follow Me on Instagram Xxxsurfstar
It is harder to some people than others. What makes it hard? Is it the paddling? If you spend a lot of time swimming your cardio will be stronger and you wont find it nearly as exhausting. Is it the duckdiving huge walls of whitewater in order to get outside? Well thats the price of admission, and good cardio will once again make it easier, or at least feel less punishing. Is it the balancing on the board? That just comes with pracice, you can use an indo board to help with that. Is it catching waves in a crowd? Well follow surfing ettiquette and know your place and wait your turn. Holding your breath when getting pounded in the impact zone? Good cardio and lots of time in the water will give you the stamina and confidence you need.
对一些人来说，这比其他运动更难学，是什么让它变得困难？是划水吗？如果你花很多时间游泳，你在有氧运动领域会更强，而且你会发现它几乎不会让你感到筋疲力尽。是在巨大的白浪墙前面潜泳出去吗？好吧，这就是敲门砖，良好的有氧运动能力将再次让它变得更容易，或者至少感觉不那么痛苦。是板上的平衡吗？这需要练习，你可以使用滑板来帮助实现这一点。是在人群中捕捉海浪吗？我们会遵循冲浪礼仪，了解你的位置，等待轮到你的时候再行动。被击中时要屏住呼吸，良好的有氧运动和在水上的大量时间将给你所需的耐力和信心。
It is harder to some people than others. What makes it hard? Is it the paddling? If you spend a lot of time swimming your cardio will be stronger and you wont find it nearly as exhausting. Is it the duckdiving huge walls of whitewater in order to get outside? Well thats the price of admission, and good cardio will once again make it easier, or at least feel less punishing. Is it the balancing on the board? That just comes with pracice, you can use an indo board to help with that. Is it catching waves in a crowd? Well follow surfing ettiquette and know your place and wait your turn. Holding your breath when getting pounded in the impact zone? Good cardio and lots of time in the water will give you the stamina and confidence you need.
对一些人来说，这比其他运动更难学，是什么让它变得困难？是划水吗？如果你花很多时间游泳，你在有氧运动领域会更强，而且你会发现它几乎不会让你感到筋疲力尽。是在巨大的白浪墙前面潜泳出去吗？好吧，这就是敲门砖，良好的有氧运动能力将再次让它变得更容易，或者至少感觉不那么痛苦。是板上的平衡吗？这需要练习，你可以使用滑板来帮助实现这一点。是在人群中捕捉海浪吗？我们会遵循冲浪礼仪，了解你的位置，等待轮到你的时候再行动。被击中时要屏住呼吸，良好的有氧运动和在水上的大量时间将给你所需的耐力和信心。
Why is surfing so hard? Why is playing the guitar so hard? Kelly Slater and Eddie Van Halen woukd each say that they are easy. For some people these things arent hard at all. They tried something and found they were just naturally good at it. But they have each spent thousands of hours honing their craft. I was always a good strong swimmer. But my cardio wasnt so good. So i jogged and skipped rope and got into great shape. So when i decided to leave bodyboarding and become a surfer, it was an easy transition. I grew up at the beach so i understood the waves and tides, I could swim strong and had developed strong cardio and breathing and could hold my breath a long time even when gasping for air. If you arent in good physical condition, and cant swim well, then you will probably be too tired to enjoy being out there at all let alone trying to surf. But if you are prepared, by being in shape and understanding the waves and the ocean, you will be ready to try surfing, you wont panic when you wipe out or your leash breaks. There is a reason thT most surfers are lean and skinny, because it is an intense workout like no other. If you spend 10,000 hours practicing and just doing it, you will become great at it. But know going in what to expect, it is a lot of hard work, its not slow moving , its intense and fast and you must think quickly and react quickly and be in shape and in tune mentally. Your leash could break a half mile offshore in 8 foot waves, and you may have to swim in or drown. It is life or death out there, so be in shape and be prepared and it will get easier and easier the more time you spend out there. Its only hard until you are strong enough to survive it and confident enough to know you can do it because you have trained for it. Know your limits and if you stick with it and stay in shape and keep trying your limits will keep growing along with you. Aloha and mahalo for reading! Buena suerte!!!
为什么冲浪这么难？为什么弹吉他这么难？凯莉·斯莱特（Kelly Slater）和埃迪·范·海伦（Eddie Van Halen）都说他们很容易。对一些人来说，这些事情一点都不难。他们尝试了一些东西，发现自己天生擅长。但他们每个人都花了数千小时来磨练自己的技艺。我一直都是一个游泳健将。但我的有氧运动能力不强。所以我慢跑、跳绳，身体变得很好。所以，当我决定离开趴板冲浪成为一名冲浪者时，这是一个简单的转变。我在海滩上长大，所以我了解海浪和潮汐，我能游得很好，有很强的有氧运动和呼吸能力，即使在喘气的时候也能屏住呼吸很长时间。如果你身体状况不好，游泳也游不好，那么你可能会很累，在那里根本无法享受乐趣，更不用说尝试冲浪了。但是如果你做好了准备，通过保持良好的体形，了解海浪和海洋，你就可以尝试冲浪了，当你擦干净或者你的皮带断了的时候，你就不会惊慌失措。大多数冲浪者都很瘦是有原因的，因为这是一项前所未有的高强度运动。如果你花10000个小时来练习，你会变得很棒。但是，要知道接下来会发生什么，这是一项苦差事，它不是缓慢的行动，它紧张和快速，你必须快速思考和反应，并在精神上保持良好的状态。你的连接绳可能会在离岸半英里处的8英尺海浪中断裂，你可能不得不在水中游泳或溺水。在那时是生死攸关的时刻，所以保持良好的状态，做好准备，你在外面待的时间越多，事情就会变得越来越容易。只有当你足够坚强能挺过去、足够自信、知道自己能行，事情才会变得容易，因为你受过训练。知道你的极限，如果你坚持下去，保持身材，不断尝试，你的极限会随着你的增长而增长。再见，感谢阅读！祝你幸运！
为什么冲浪这么难？为什么弹吉他这么难？凯莉·斯莱特（Kelly Slater）和埃迪·范·海伦（Eddie Van Halen）都说他们很容易。对一些人来说，这些事情一点都不难。他们尝试了一些东西，发现自己天生擅长。但他们每个人都花了数千小时来磨练自己的技艺。我一直都是一个游泳健将。但我的有氧运动能力不强。所以我慢跑、跳绳，身体变得很好。所以，当我决定离开趴板冲浪成为一名冲浪者时，这是一个简单的转变。我在海滩上长大，所以我了解海浪和潮汐，我能游得很好，有很强的有氧运动和呼吸能力，即使在喘气的时候也能屏住呼吸很长时间。如果你身体状况不好，游泳也游不好，那么你可能会很累，在那里根本无法享受乐趣，更不用说尝试冲浪了。但是如果你做好了准备，通过保持良好的体形，了解海浪和海洋，你就可以尝试冲浪了，当你擦干净或者你的皮带断了的时候，你就不会惊慌失措。大多数冲浪者都很瘦是有原因的，因为这是一项前所未有的高强度运动。如果你花10000个小时来练习，你会变得很棒。但是，要知道接下来会发生什么，这是一项苦差事，它不是缓慢的行动，它紧张和快速，你必须快速思考和反应，并在精神上保持良好的状态。你的连接绳可能会在离岸半英里处的8英尺海浪中断裂，你可能不得不在水中游泳或溺水。在那时是生死攸关的时刻，所以保持良好的状态，做好准备，你在外面待的时间越多，事情就会变得越来越容易。只有当你足够坚强能挺过去、足够自信、知道自己能行，事情才会变得容易，因为你受过训练。知道你的极限，如果你坚持下去，保持身材，不断尝试，你的极限会随着你的增长而增长。再见，感谢阅读！祝你幸运！
Leonid S. Knyshov, CEO of Sendlixs, a customer acquisition startup. Send me a message :)
I took surfing classes in 2015. My prior background includes skating, dancing, and skateboarding. I am in good physical shape. With my instructor's assistance, I stood on the board in my first hour.
I started surfing on my own by my 4th class. That is not typical but I could do it with my background. I asked my teachers to help me understand the mechanics of surfing and how to read and time waves instead of focusing on standing on the board where I had no problems.
Surfing is an interesting activity consisting of three phases. Paddling to the point where you can catch the wave is a tough workout and that is phase one. Then you spend time in phase two waiting for the right wave by reading the ocean surface. Riding the board is not difficult and that is phase three but first you need to paddle in sync with the wave you are trying to catch. The key to riding the board is to identify the exact points on the board where you are stable and being able to jump to those points consistently.
There is also the matter of being able to read the ocean beach break pattern to see if the tide is right for surfing. My surfing lessons were rescheduled twice because the break pattern was not right.
我在2015年上了冲浪课。我之前会滑冰、舞蹈和滑板。我的身体状况很好。在教练的帮助下，我第一个小时就站在冲浪板上。
我从四年级开始自己冲浪。这并不具备代表性，以我的背景，才可以做到。我请老师帮助我理解冲浪的技巧，以及如何弄明白浪和浪的时间规律，而不是专注于如何站在对我没有难道的冲浪板上。
冲浪是一项有趣的活动，包括三个阶段。划到你能赶上海浪的程度是一项艰苦的训练，这是第一阶段。然后你花时间在第二阶段，通过读取海洋表面信息来等待正确的波浪。登上冲浪板并不困难，这是第三阶段，但首先你需要与你想要抓住的波浪同步划桨。骑滑板的关键是确定你在滑板上稳定的确切点，并且能够始终如一地跳到这些点。
还有一个问题是，你需要能够读懂海滩的破浪模式，看看潮汐是否适合冲浪。我的冲浪课被重新安排了两次，因为休息时间不对。
I took surfing classes in 2015. My prior background includes skating, dancing, and skateboarding. I am in good physical shape. With my instructor's assistance, I stood on the board in my first hour.
I started surfing on my own by my 4th class. That is not typical but I could do it with my background. I asked my teachers to help me understand the mechanics of surfing and how to read and time waves instead of focusing on standing on the board where I had no problems.
Surfing is an interesting activity consisting of three phases. Paddling to the point where you can catch the wave is a tough workout and that is phase one. Then you spend time in phase two waiting for the right wave by reading the ocean surface. Riding the board is not difficult and that is phase three but first you need to paddle in sync with the wave you are trying to catch. The key to riding the board is to identify the exact points on the board where you are stable and being able to jump to those points consistently.
There is also the matter of being able to read the ocean beach break pattern to see if the tide is right for surfing. My surfing lessons were rescheduled twice because the break pattern was not right.
我在2015年上了冲浪课。我之前会滑冰、舞蹈和滑板。我的身体状况很好。在教练的帮助下，我第一个小时就站在冲浪板上。
我从四年级开始自己冲浪。这并不具备代表性，以我的背景，才可以做到。我请老师帮助我理解冲浪的技巧，以及如何弄明白浪和浪的时间规律，而不是专注于如何站在对我没有难道的冲浪板上。
冲浪是一项有趣的活动，包括三个阶段。划到你能赶上海浪的程度是一项艰苦的训练，这是第一阶段。然后你花时间在第二阶段，通过读取海洋表面信息来等待正确的波浪。登上冲浪板并不困难，这是第三阶段，但首先你需要与你想要抓住的波浪同步划桨。骑滑板的关键是确定你在滑板上稳定的确切点，并且能够始终如一地跳到这些点。
还有一个问题是，你需要能够读懂海滩的破浪模式，看看潮汐是否适合冲浪。我的冲浪课被重新安排了两次，因为休息时间不对。
Colin Drake, Beach Enthusiast
Surfing has a large learning curve for a number of reasons. I'll mention few of them at first, then go into greater detail one by one. 1) Access to a consistent and mellow surf spot. 2) Swimming and athletic ability 3) Instruction and practice 4) Waves are unpredictable.
1) The closer you live to the coast and a decent surf spot, the more time you will have to focus on learning the sport. Warm water helps too as cold water can be intimidating and shortens the amount of time you can spend trying to catch waves. The size of waves depend on many factors including season and weather. Small waves are more user friendly and are ideal for catching your first few rides.
2) Surfing uses a different set of muscles than most people use on a daily basis. Being a strong swimmer is important. When learning to surf, you spend a lot of time off the board and in the water. Same goes for veteran surfers. Surfing takes endurance. So being in the best physical shape is ideal. If you look at a pro surfer's work out routine it involves lots of cardio, strength conditioning and a focus on the core muscles. Balance is just as important as being in shape. If you can't balance on any type of board, boogie boarding might be a better option.
冲浪有一个很大的学习曲线，原因有很多。我将首先提到其中的几个，然后逐一详细介绍： 进入一个稳定而柔和的冲浪点； 游泳和运动能力；指导和练习；波浪是不可预测的。
1、 你住得地方离海岸越近，有一个像样的冲浪点，你就有越多的时间专注于学习这项运动。温水也有帮助，因为冷水会让人害怕，缩短了你捕捉海浪的时间。海浪的大小取决于许多因素，包括季节和天气。小波浪对玩家更友好，非常适合前几次接触练习。
2、 冲浪使用的肌肉与大多数人每天使用的不同。成为一名强壮的游泳运动员很重要。学习冲浪时，你会有很多时间处于冲浪板下和水中，资深冲浪者也是如此。冲浪需要耐力。所以保持最佳的身体状态是理想的。如果你看一看职业冲浪运动员的锻炼计划，会发现它包括大量的有氧运动、力量训练和对核心肌肉的关注。平衡和保持身材一样重要。如果你不能在任何类型的冲浪板上保持平衡，趴板可能是一个更好的选择。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Surfing has a large learning curve for a number of reasons. I'll mention few of them at first, then go into greater detail one by one. 1) Access to a consistent and mellow surf spot. 2) Swimming and athletic ability 3) Instruction and practice 4) Waves are unpredictable.
1) The closer you live to the coast and a decent surf spot, the more time you will have to focus on learning the sport. Warm water helps too as cold water can be intimidating and shortens the amount of time you can spend trying to catch waves. The size of waves depend on many factors including season and weather. Small waves are more user friendly and are ideal for catching your first few rides.
2) Surfing uses a different set of muscles than most people use on a daily basis. Being a strong swimmer is important. When learning to surf, you spend a lot of time off the board and in the water. Same goes for veteran surfers. Surfing takes endurance. So being in the best physical shape is ideal. If you look at a pro surfer's work out routine it involves lots of cardio, strength conditioning and a focus on the core muscles. Balance is just as important as being in shape. If you can't balance on any type of board, boogie boarding might be a better option.
冲浪有一个很大的学习曲线，原因有很多。我将首先提到其中的几个，然后逐一详细介绍： 进入一个稳定而柔和的冲浪点； 游泳和运动能力；指导和练习；波浪是不可预测的。
1、 你住得地方离海岸越近，有一个像样的冲浪点，你就有越多的时间专注于学习这项运动。温水也有帮助，因为冷水会让人害怕，缩短了你捕捉海浪的时间。海浪的大小取决于许多因素，包括季节和天气。小波浪对玩家更友好，非常适合前几次接触练习。
2、 冲浪使用的肌肉与大多数人每天使用的不同。成为一名强壮的游泳运动员很重要。学习冲浪时，你会有很多时间处于冲浪板下和水中，资深冲浪者也是如此。冲浪需要耐力。所以保持最佳的身体状态是理想的。如果你看一看职业冲浪运动员的锻炼计划，会发现它包括大量的有氧运动、力量训练和对核心肌肉的关注。平衡和保持身材一样重要。如果你不能在任何类型的冲浪板上保持平衡，趴板可能是一个更好的选择。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
3) Like any sport, instruction from someone will lesson the learning curve. The more coaching you get, the faster you will improve. There is a point though where you can only be taught so much and the time spent applying those skills is more important. There are many different styles of surfing. Some are easier than others. Find one that is right for you and stick to it. You can surf your whole life and still find ways to improve after each session.
4) The ocean is big and unruly. Most surf spots, like a big beach break, are unpredictable. Watching waves and understanding how they break, where they are going break and when they are going to break takes years and years. Even then, waves are still going to surprise you. Spending some time watching surf videos and analyzing where you are going to surf is crucial to understanding the science of surfing.
A great place to learn to surf, with surf schools giving lesson daily is Cowell's in Santa Cruz. I got some of my first real rides there.
Hope this helps. If you have any specific questions or would like me to go into more detail, feel free to ask.
3、像任何运动一样，来自某人的指导会改变学习曲线。你得到的指导越多，进步速度就越快。不过，有一点是，学到的只有这么多，而花在应用这些技能上的时间更为重要。冲浪有很多不同的模式。有些相对容易，找到一个适合你的，并坚持下去。你可以在你的整个生活中冲浪，并在每次练习后找到提高的方法。
4、大海又大又不规则。大多数冲浪地点，比如大型海滩休息时间，都是不可预测的。观察海浪，了解它们是如何破碎的，它们将在哪里破碎，何时破碎，需要多年的时间。即便如此，海浪仍会让你大吃一惊。花些时间看冲浪视频，分析你要去哪里冲浪，这对理解冲浪科学至关重要。
学习冲浪的好地方是圣克鲁斯的科威尔冲浪学校，每天都有冲浪课。我第一次在那里骑行。
希望这有帮助。如果你有任何具体问题或希望我更详细地介绍，请随时提问。
4) The ocean is big and unruly. Most surf spots, like a big beach break, are unpredictable. Watching waves and understanding how they break, where they are going break and when they are going to break takes years and years. Even then, waves are still going to surprise you. Spending some time watching surf videos and analyzing where you are going to surf is crucial to understanding the science of surfing.
A great place to learn to surf, with surf schools giving lesson daily is Cowell's in Santa Cruz. I got some of my first real rides there.
Hope this helps. If you have any specific questions or would like me to go into more detail, feel free to ask.
3、像任何运动一样，来自某人的指导会改变学习曲线。你得到的指导越多，进步速度就越快。不过，有一点是，学到的只有这么多，而花在应用这些技能上的时间更为重要。冲浪有很多不同的模式。有些相对容易，找到一个适合你的，并坚持下去。你可以在你的整个生活中冲浪，并在每次练习后找到提高的方法。
4、大海又大又不规则。大多数冲浪地点，比如大型海滩休息时间，都是不可预测的。观察海浪，了解它们是如何破碎的，它们将在哪里破碎，何时破碎，需要多年的时间。即便如此，海浪仍会让你大吃一惊。花些时间看冲浪视频，分析你要去哪里冲浪，这对理解冲浪科学至关重要。
学习冲浪的好地方是圣克鲁斯的科威尔冲浪学校，每天都有冲浪课。我第一次在那里骑行。
希望这有帮助。如果你有任何具体问题或希望我更详细地介绍，请随时提问。
Elwood Wyatt, 50+ years of surfing on Oahu and in San Diego.
埃尔伍德·怀亚特，在瓦胡岛和圣地亚哥50多年的冲浪生涯
埃尔伍德·怀亚特，在瓦胡岛和圣地亚哥50多年的冲浪生涯
I’m in the camp that says surfing is not very hard, in fact, except for one thing, it is a pretty easy sport to learn - as long as you live in a surf capital where access to good and warm waves is assured. That one thing is the need to develop strong shoulder and back muscles so you can paddle into waves and catch them. Almost nobody has adequate muscle development until they start paddling and surfing regularly for a few months. Once you have that, the single lesson you probably took when you started is likely all the instruction you’ll ever need. All the rest comes with practice and socialization, and that is all fun from beginning to end.
我所在的圈子说冲浪不是很难，事实上，除了一件事之外，它是一项很容易学习的运动——只要你住在冲浪之都，在那里你可以享受到温暖的海浪。其中一件事就是需要锻炼强壮的肩膀和背部肌肉，这样你才能划水并抓住海浪。在他们开始有规律地划水和冲浪几个月之前，几乎没有人有发育足够好的肌肉。一旦你做到了这一点，你开始学习的那一课可能就是你所需要的全部指导。剩下的都是练习和共同化，这从头到尾都很有趣。
我所在的圈子说冲浪不是很难，事实上，除了一件事之外，它是一项很容易学习的运动——只要你住在冲浪之都，在那里你可以享受到温暖的海浪。其中一件事就是需要锻炼强壮的肩膀和背部肌肉，这样你才能划水并抓住海浪。在他们开始有规律地划水和冲浪几个月之前，几乎没有人有发育足够好的肌肉。一旦你做到了这一点，你开始学习的那一课可能就是你所需要的全部指导。剩下的都是练习和共同化，这从头到尾都很有趣。
Anonymous
I started surfing at age six and I am now 45. I still do not think I am very good despite surfing regularly at my home break in California and in many of the top spots in the South Pacific and Australia. Anyone can learn to stand up and move down the wave. But, to surf really well with good style is extremely difficult. Good surfing style seems to be a talent some lucky folks are born with. The reality for most of us is that we can practice hours each day and we never look anything like Tom Curren on the wave. And if you do not start surfing at a young age it is almost impossible to ever be really good. There is some sort of neuromuscular development that takes place when you start out surfing young that is really difficult to develop later in life. Out of the hundreds of people that I have surfed with over the years there is only one that started surfing after age 14 and is excellent. And he is a freakish talent and one of the top professional skateboarders in the world.
我六岁开始冲浪，现在45岁了。尽管我经常在加利福尼亚州的家庭休息时间以及南太平洋和澳大利亚的许多顶级景点冲浪，但我仍然觉得自己冲浪水平不是很好。任何人都可以学会在波浪中站立和移动。但是，要用好的冲浪模式是非常困难的。好的冲浪模式似乎是一些幸运儿天生就具有天赋。对我们大多数人来说，现实是我们每天都可以练习几个小时，而且我们在海浪上从来不像汤姆·科伦那样。如果你不在很小的时候就开始冲浪，你几乎不可能做到真正的好。当你年轻时开始冲浪时，某种神经肌肉会得到发育，这在以后的生活中就很难发育了。在我多年来与之一起冲浪的数百人中，只有一人在14岁之后开始冲浪，而且非常优秀。他是一个怪诞的天才，是世界上顶尖的职业滑板运动员之一。
I started surfing at age six and I am now 45. I still do not think I am very good despite surfing regularly at my home break in California and in many of the top spots in the South Pacific and Australia. Anyone can learn to stand up and move down the wave. But, to surf really well with good style is extremely difficult. Good surfing style seems to be a talent some lucky folks are born with. The reality for most of us is that we can practice hours each day and we never look anything like Tom Curren on the wave. And if you do not start surfing at a young age it is almost impossible to ever be really good. There is some sort of neuromuscular development that takes place when you start out surfing young that is really difficult to develop later in life. Out of the hundreds of people that I have surfed with over the years there is only one that started surfing after age 14 and is excellent. And he is a freakish talent and one of the top professional skateboarders in the world.
我六岁开始冲浪，现在45岁了。尽管我经常在加利福尼亚州的家庭休息时间以及南太平洋和澳大利亚的许多顶级景点冲浪，但我仍然觉得自己冲浪水平不是很好。任何人都可以学会在波浪中站立和移动。但是，要用好的冲浪模式是非常困难的。好的冲浪模式似乎是一些幸运儿天生就具有天赋。对我们大多数人来说，现实是我们每天都可以练习几个小时，而且我们在海浪上从来不像汤姆·科伦那样。如果你不在很小的时候就开始冲浪，你几乎不可能做到真正的好。当你年轻时开始冲浪时，某种神经肌肉会得到发育，这在以后的生活中就很难发育了。在我多年来与之一起冲浪的数百人中，只有一人在14岁之后开始冲浪，而且非常优秀。他是一个怪诞的天才，是世界上顶尖的职业滑板运动员之一。
Ok, so you probably are never going to be an expert surfer no matter what you do. But, what can you do so you are good enough to have a fun time surfing? First you must have strength and endurance. I cannot stress this enough. Being able to paddle well is essential in getting into waves properly and dealing with the reality of crowded conditions. Weight training and lots of swimming can help, but nothing substitutes for the actual paddling movement. Paddle up and down the beach when the waves are flat. Next up in importance is to choose a board that fits your ability. If you are starting out get board with lots of volume- thick and wide. This will make paddling much easier and the board will much more stable. Avoid the temptation to get a board “like what the pros ride”. You will be miserable on such as craft despite how cool they look in the surf shop and in the magazines. Finally find a wave that suits your ability. Beginners should find a slow gently sloping wave like San Onofre in SoCal.
好吧，所以不管你做什么，你可能永远都不会成为一名冲浪专家。但是，你能做些什么才能让你足够好，享受冲浪的乐趣呢？首先你必须有力量和耐力。我怎么强调都不过分。能够很好地划桨是正确进入海浪和应对拥挤环境的必要条件。举重训练和大量游泳可以帮助你，但没有什么可以代替实际的划水运动—波浪平缓时在海滩上来回划桨。接下来重要的是选择一个适合你能力的滑板。如果你刚开始的时候，使用厚而宽的滑板。这将使划水更加容易，冲浪板也会更加稳定。避免“像职业选手骑的那样”被冲浪板所诱惑。尽管在冲浪店和杂志上的冲浪板看起来很酷，你还是会对挑选它们感到痛苦，最终找到适合你能力的波浪。初学者应该尔找到像南加州的圣奥诺弗雷那儿一样的缓慢倾斜的波浪。
好吧，所以不管你做什么，你可能永远都不会成为一名冲浪专家。但是，你能做些什么才能让你足够好，享受冲浪的乐趣呢？首先你必须有力量和耐力。我怎么强调都不过分。能够很好地划桨是正确进入海浪和应对拥挤环境的必要条件。举重训练和大量游泳可以帮助你，但没有什么可以代替实际的划水运动—波浪平缓时在海滩上来回划桨。接下来重要的是选择一个适合你能力的滑板。如果你刚开始的时候，使用厚而宽的滑板。这将使划水更加容易，冲浪板也会更加稳定。避免“像职业选手骑的那样”被冲浪板所诱惑。尽管在冲浪店和杂志上的冲浪板看起来很酷，你还是会对挑选它们感到痛苦，最终找到适合你能力的波浪。初学者应该尔找到像南加州的圣奥诺弗雷那儿一样的缓慢倾斜的波浪。
Nick Kiefer, Surfed Sunset, Pipe, Off the Wall, Haleiwa, Vland, etc.
The main reason surfing is so difficult to learn has less to do with the physical act of surfing than with understanding the ocean. This is especially true of learning to judge waves. Figuring out how ocean waves work can only be learned through being out there with them. Experience is king… but experience takes time. You begin to develop a sense for what a wave will do, even when it is a ways off. The more time you spend in the waves the more you will learn this aspect, and for those who really want to get good, that means years.
Combine that with the physical coordination necessary (hint: it favors the young) and piles of knowledge about surfing equipment, weather, tides, winds (yes, you basically become an amateur meteorologist along the way), spots, etc. All that said though, having an experienced guide who can take you out to a beginner’s spot and push you into a wave on a nice, big, floaty board, and you could be up and riding on your first try! You will just ride straight toward the beach in the whitewater, but hey, you’re surfing! The feeling just from that, though, is enough to get you hooked, and once you are hooked on the feeling, it won’t matter to you how good you are… you’ll just keep trying, and that’s how you really learn. You will keep wishing you were better at it, but if you keep on paddling out, you’ll look back in a couple of years and realize that your surfing has truly improved.
冲浪如此难学的主要原因与其说与冲浪的身体动作有关，不如说与了解海洋有关。学习判断海浪尤其如此。只有和海浪在一起，才能了解海浪是如何工作的。经验为王，但经验需要时间。你开始要意识到波浪会做什么—即使它离你很远。你花在海浪中的时间越多，你就越会学到更多这方面的知识，对于那些真正想变得更好的人来说，这意味着几年。
结合必要的身体协调（提示：这对年轻人有利）和关于冲浪设备、天气、潮汐、风（是的，你基本上是一个业余气象学家）、景点等的大量知识。说了这么多，有一个经验丰富的导游可以带你去初学者的地方，把你推到一个漂亮的、大的、漂浮的冲浪板上，你就可以第一次尝试了！你会在白浪中径直驶向海滩，但是，嘿，你是在冲浪!然而，这种感觉就足以让你上瘾，一旦你被这种感觉所吸引，你有的冲浪能力多好就无关紧要了，你只需要不断尝试，这就是你真正学习的方式。你会一直希望自己在冲浪方面做得更好，但如果你继续把冲浪板划出浪区，几年后回顾过去，你会意识到你的冲浪能力已经真正提高了。
The main reason surfing is so difficult to learn has less to do with the physical act of surfing than with understanding the ocean. This is especially true of learning to judge waves. Figuring out how ocean waves work can only be learned through being out there with them. Experience is king… but experience takes time. You begin to develop a sense for what a wave will do, even when it is a ways off. The more time you spend in the waves the more you will learn this aspect, and for those who really want to get good, that means years.
Combine that with the physical coordination necessary (hint: it favors the young) and piles of knowledge about surfing equipment, weather, tides, winds (yes, you basically become an amateur meteorologist along the way), spots, etc. All that said though, having an experienced guide who can take you out to a beginner’s spot and push you into a wave on a nice, big, floaty board, and you could be up and riding on your first try! You will just ride straight toward the beach in the whitewater, but hey, you’re surfing! The feeling just from that, though, is enough to get you hooked, and once you are hooked on the feeling, it won’t matter to you how good you are… you’ll just keep trying, and that’s how you really learn. You will keep wishing you were better at it, but if you keep on paddling out, you’ll look back in a couple of years and realize that your surfing has truly improved.
冲浪如此难学的主要原因与其说与冲浪的身体动作有关，不如说与了解海洋有关。学习判断海浪尤其如此。只有和海浪在一起，才能了解海浪是如何工作的。经验为王，但经验需要时间。你开始要意识到波浪会做什么—即使它离你很远。你花在海浪中的时间越多，你就越会学到更多这方面的知识，对于那些真正想变得更好的人来说，这意味着几年。
结合必要的身体协调（提示：这对年轻人有利）和关于冲浪设备、天气、潮汐、风（是的，你基本上是一个业余气象学家）、景点等的大量知识。说了这么多，有一个经验丰富的导游可以带你去初学者的地方，把你推到一个漂亮的、大的、漂浮的冲浪板上，你就可以第一次尝试了！你会在白浪中径直驶向海滩，但是，嘿，你是在冲浪!然而，这种感觉就足以让你上瘾，一旦你被这种感觉所吸引，你有的冲浪能力多好就无关紧要了，你只需要不断尝试，这就是你真正学习的方式。你会一直希望自己在冲浪方面做得更好，但如果你继续把冲浪板划出浪区，几年后回顾过去，你会意识到你的冲浪能力已经真正提高了。
Aion Za, lived in Meditrranean
Aion Za，住在地中海
Aion Za，住在地中海
Seeing surfing as a type of sport that has goals to achieve is the wrong way of looking at it in my opinion.
Surfing should be seen as an art, you can be precise or abstract, but it is all based on how do you feel while you’re out there.
If you’re on your board, surrounded by water, and feeling rewarded - you are surfing.
在我看来，把冲浪视为一种有目标的运动是错误的。
冲浪应该被视为一门艺术，你可以是精确的，也可以是抽象的，但这一切都取决于你在户外时的感受。
如果你在冲浪板上，被水包围，感觉得到了回报，你就是在冲浪。
Surfing should be seen as an art, you can be precise or abstract, but it is all based on how do you feel while you’re out there.
If you’re on your board, surrounded by water, and feeling rewarded - you are surfing.
在我看来，把冲浪视为一种有目标的运动是错误的。
冲浪应该被视为一门艺术，你可以是精确的，也可以是抽象的，但这一切都取决于你在户外时的感受。
如果你在冲浪板上，被水包围，感觉得到了回报，你就是在冲浪。
Jeremy Brown
The answer depends on a lot of factors, including: (1) how beginner-friendly the waves are (soft, slow, relatively uncrowded, well-shaped waist-high waves are probably the platonic ideal); (2) what the weather conditions are (having to wear a wetsuit complicates everything); (3) what sort of board you have (big and floaty is better); (4) what sort of sporting background you have (swimming and skateboarding give an edge, for instance); (5) how good of an athlete you are; (6) what sort of guidance you have (taking a lesson beats watching YouTube); and (7) how much time you have to practice.
答案取决于很多因素，包括：
1、波浪对初学者的友好程度（柔软、缓慢、相对不拥挤、形状良好、齐腰高的波浪可能是柏拉图式的理想）；
2、天气状况如何（必须穿潜水服会使一切变得复杂）；
3、你有什么样的冲浪板（大而能浮动的更好）；
4、你有什么样的运动背景（比如游泳和滑板运动会给你带来优势）；
5、你优秀到什么程度；
6、你有什么样的指导（上课胜过看YouTube）；
7、你需要练习多长时间。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
The answer depends on a lot of factors, including: (1) how beginner-friendly the waves are (soft, slow, relatively uncrowded, well-shaped waist-high waves are probably the platonic ideal); (2) what the weather conditions are (having to wear a wetsuit complicates everything); (3) what sort of board you have (big and floaty is better); (4) what sort of sporting background you have (swimming and skateboarding give an edge, for instance); (5) how good of an athlete you are; (6) what sort of guidance you have (taking a lesson beats watching YouTube); and (7) how much time you have to practice.
答案取决于很多因素，包括：
1、波浪对初学者的友好程度（柔软、缓慢、相对不拥挤、形状良好、齐腰高的波浪可能是柏拉图式的理想）；
2、天气状况如何（必须穿潜水服会使一切变得复杂）；
3、你有什么样的冲浪板（大而能浮动的更好）；
4、你有什么样的运动背景（比如游泳和滑板运动会给你带来优势）；
5、你优秀到什么程度；
6、你有什么样的指导（上课胜过看YouTube）；
7、你需要练习多长时间。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
And it depends on what you mean by surfing. Do you mean being able to catch waves? Or being able to consistently catch waves? Being able to ride beginner waves? Or being able to ride heavy waves. Being able to ride without falling off? Or being able to ride stylishly and perform tricks?
In general, I think that surfing is more difficult than most other popular sports in that doing it at the simplest and most basic level requires a certain degree of skill. You could be terrible at soccer and still be able to kick a soccer ball. But surfing is different. To surf in even the most generous conditions, you have to balance on a board, catch a wave, stay on a wave, etc.
And the dynamic nature of waves makes learning that much more difficult. If you’re trying to learn how to skate a particular bowl, you can run lines in that bowl over and over again, hour after hour, day after day, and it won’t change. But in surfing, you may have to wait long stretches between sets, and even if you have the time to invest, waves are fickle things: swell comes and goes; tides rise and fall; winds pick up.
All of that said, I’ve taught a lot of people to surf. Most considered themselves to have crossed some threshold when they were able to stand up, at least for a second or two.
But I’d take a different angle and say (with some kidding and with some truth) that people should consider themselves as having learned how to surf once they’re able to paddle out to the breaks. That’s an accomplishment that’s more discrete, that’s a fundamental prerequisite to catching waves, and that in many ways is closer to the essence of surfing — which, on a minute-by-minute basis, typically involves way more paddling than wave-riding.
这取决于你对冲浪的理解。你是说能赶上海浪吗？还是能够持续捕捉海浪？能驾驭入门级海浪吗？或者能够驾驭巨浪。能驾驭而不掉下来吗？还是能够优雅地骑行和具有表演技巧？
总的来说，我认为冲浪比大多数其他流行运动都要困难，因为在最简单、最基本等级的冲浪就需要一定的技巧。你可能足球踢得很糟糕，但仍然可以踢足球。但冲浪是不同的。即使是在最宽松的条件下冲浪，你也必须在冲浪板上保持平衡，接住波浪，待在波浪上，等等。
波浪的动态特性使学习变得更加困难。如果你想学习如何在一个特定的椭圆形运动场滑冰，你可以在那个椭圆形运动场一次又一次地排长队，一小时又一小时，一天又一天，而且环境不会改变。但在冲浪中，你可能需要在两组之间等待很长时间，即使你有时间投资，海浪也是变化无常的：海浪来来往往、潮汐涨落、风越来越大。
尽管如此，我还是教了很多人冲浪。大多数人认为，当他们能够站起来时，至少在一两秒钟内，他们已经越过了一些门槛。
但我会采取不同的角度说（用一些开玩笑和一些事实），一旦他们能把冲浪板划出浪区得到适度的休息才能认为自己是学会了冲浪。这是一个更加独立的成就，这是捕捉海浪的基本前提，而且在许多方面更接近冲浪的本质——在以一分钟为单位的基础上，冲浪通常比乘浪更需要划动冲浪板。
In general, I think that surfing is more difficult than most other popular sports in that doing it at the simplest and most basic level requires a certain degree of skill. You could be terrible at soccer and still be able to kick a soccer ball. But surfing is different. To surf in even the most generous conditions, you have to balance on a board, catch a wave, stay on a wave, etc.
And the dynamic nature of waves makes learning that much more difficult. If you’re trying to learn how to skate a particular bowl, you can run lines in that bowl over and over again, hour after hour, day after day, and it won’t change. But in surfing, you may have to wait long stretches between sets, and even if you have the time to invest, waves are fickle things: swell comes and goes; tides rise and fall; winds pick up.
All of that said, I’ve taught a lot of people to surf. Most considered themselves to have crossed some threshold when they were able to stand up, at least for a second or two.
But I’d take a different angle and say (with some kidding and with some truth) that people should consider themselves as having learned how to surf once they’re able to paddle out to the breaks. That’s an accomplishment that’s more discrete, that’s a fundamental prerequisite to catching waves, and that in many ways is closer to the essence of surfing — which, on a minute-by-minute basis, typically involves way more paddling than wave-riding.
这取决于你对冲浪的理解。你是说能赶上海浪吗？还是能够持续捕捉海浪？能驾驭入门级海浪吗？或者能够驾驭巨浪。能驾驭而不掉下来吗？还是能够优雅地骑行和具有表演技巧？
总的来说，我认为冲浪比大多数其他流行运动都要困难，因为在最简单、最基本等级的冲浪就需要一定的技巧。你可能足球踢得很糟糕，但仍然可以踢足球。但冲浪是不同的。即使是在最宽松的条件下冲浪，你也必须在冲浪板上保持平衡，接住波浪，待在波浪上，等等。
波浪的动态特性使学习变得更加困难。如果你想学习如何在一个特定的椭圆形运动场滑冰，你可以在那个椭圆形运动场一次又一次地排长队，一小时又一小时，一天又一天，而且环境不会改变。但在冲浪中，你可能需要在两组之间等待很长时间，即使你有时间投资，海浪也是变化无常的：海浪来来往往、潮汐涨落、风越来越大。
尽管如此，我还是教了很多人冲浪。大多数人认为，当他们能够站起来时，至少在一两秒钟内，他们已经越过了一些门槛。
但我会采取不同的角度说（用一些开玩笑和一些事实），一旦他们能把冲浪板划出浪区得到适度的休息才能认为自己是学会了冲浪。这是一个更加独立的成就，这是捕捉海浪的基本前提，而且在许多方面更接近冲浪的本质——在以一分钟为单位的基础上，冲浪通常比乘浪更需要划动冲浪板。
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