为什么冲浪这么难学( 二)
正文翻译
Why is surfing so difficult to learn?
为什么冲浪这么难学?
Why is surfing so difficult to learn?
为什么冲浪这么难学?
评论翻译
James Monty Smith, President at Legend Surf Classic. PR. (2014-present)
Surfing is a high energy sport. It takes lots of strenght just to paddle out to the line up for catching waves. If there are lots of waves and you dont have expericence even harder. Then you have to coordinate your wave paddling into catching a moving wave that breaks in different location every time. So there are several factors that you must learn and develope coordination just to catch a wave and fall off. It take lots of dedication and time and practice to develope basic skills to surf. Many never get to the next stage without lots of work and practice and dedication to learn.
冲浪是一项高能量需求的运动。仅仅是去排队等待涨潮把冲浪板划出浪区就需要很大的力气。如果有很多波浪，而你没有经验，那就更难了。然后你必须协调你驾驭的波浪，划动冲浪板以捕捉移动的波浪—每次都在不同的位置破碎。因此，有几个因素是你必须学习和提高协调能力，这样你只是为了抓住一个浪，然后掉下去。提高冲浪能力的基本技能需要大量的投入、时间和练习。如果没有大量的工作、实践和学习投入，许多人永远无法进入下一个阶段。
Surfing is a high energy sport. It takes lots of strenght just to paddle out to the line up for catching waves. If there are lots of waves and you dont have expericence even harder. Then you have to coordinate your wave paddling into catching a moving wave that breaks in different location every time. So there are several factors that you must learn and develope coordination just to catch a wave and fall off. It take lots of dedication and time and practice to develope basic skills to surf. Many never get to the next stage without lots of work and practice and dedication to learn.
冲浪是一项高能量需求的运动。仅仅是去排队等待涨潮把冲浪板划出浪区就需要很大的力气。如果有很多波浪，而你没有经验，那就更难了。然后你必须协调你驾驭的波浪，划动冲浪板以捕捉移动的波浪—每次都在不同的位置破碎。因此，有几个因素是你必须学习和提高协调能力，这样你只是为了抓住一个浪，然后掉下去。提高冲浪能力的基本技能需要大量的投入、时间和练习。如果没有大量的工作、实践和学习投入，许多人永远无法进入下一个阶段。
Paul Shustak, Surfing
I hope this doesn’t dissuade you but its the most challenging sport I’ve ever done, and I’ve tried many. Its sort of like skiing, except the mountain is moving all around you. But this challenge makes it endlessly fascinating and catching a wave is just about the biggest thrill you’ll ever experience. Even when you’re not catching waves, you’re immersed in nature, plugged into the planet and getting a great workout.
我希望这不会阻止你，但这是我做过的最具挑战性的运动，我尝试过很多次。这有点像滑雪，只是山在你周围移动。但这项挑战让它变得无限迷人，捕捉海浪几乎是你所经历过的最大刺激。即使你没有捕捉到海浪，你也沉浸在大自然中，与地球相连，得到了一次很棒的锻炼。
I hope this doesn’t dissuade you but its the most challenging sport I’ve ever done, and I’ve tried many. Its sort of like skiing, except the mountain is moving all around you. But this challenge makes it endlessly fascinating and catching a wave is just about the biggest thrill you’ll ever experience. Even when you’re not catching waves, you’re immersed in nature, plugged into the planet and getting a great workout.
我希望这不会阻止你，但这是我做过的最具挑战性的运动，我尝试过很多次。这有点像滑雪，只是山在你周围移动。但这项挑战让它变得无限迷人，捕捉海浪几乎是你所经历过的最大刺激。即使你没有捕捉到海浪，你也沉浸在大自然中，与地球相连，得到了一次很棒的锻炼。
Stephen Flynn, surfing full time in Indonesia
斯蒂芬·弗林，在印度尼西亚全职冲浪
斯蒂芬·弗林，在印度尼西亚全职冲浪
Because no 2 waves are ever exactly the same, outside of Kelly Slater’s wave pool. Surfing is pretty unique in that respect, the playing field is constantly moving, your trying to balance/harness nature’s energy on this piece of foam and fibreglass. To even get in the game, you have to be superfit, have done your time building up the the required muscles and fitness just to catch a wave. Unlike skateboarding, snowboarding, waterskiing theres a no way your going to be a good surfer any time soon. It takes years of constantly riding waves to even get to an intermediate/good level…pretty much where most of us are. There are of course those freak exceptions..kids that progross really fast, and up as pros. I’ve been riding for 40 years and definitely am no stand-out surfer (although i have my moments on certain waves, on certain days..we all do). It’s hard and when you think your on top of your game, mother nature will show you who is boss and give you beat down when you least expect it, It’s literally one of the best things in life you can do…..worth the effort.
因为在凯利·斯莱特的波浪池外，没有两个波浪是完全相同的。在这方面看冲浪这项运动非常独特，其运动场在不断移动，你试图在这块泡沫和玻璃纤维上平衡/利用大自然的能量。要想参加比赛，你必须非常出色，花时间锻炼所需的肌肉和体能，只是为了抓住一个浪。与滑板、滑雪、滑水不同，你不可能很快成为一名优秀的冲浪者。要想达到中等/良好的水平，需要这需要数年不断的冲浪，这几乎是我们大多数人的水平，当然也有例外。进步很快的年轻人，成为职业选手。我已经冲浪40年了，绝对不是一个出类拔萃的冲浪者（尽管我在某些海浪上，在某些日子里……我们都有这样的时刻）。这很难，当你认为自己在该领域中处于领先地位时，大自然母亲会告诉你谁是老板，并在你最意想不到的时候击败你，这确实是你一生中能做的最好的事情之一，它还是值得付出努力的。
因为在凯利·斯莱特的波浪池外，没有两个波浪是完全相同的。在这方面看冲浪这项运动非常独特，其运动场在不断移动，你试图在这块泡沫和玻璃纤维上平衡/利用大自然的能量。要想参加比赛，你必须非常出色，花时间锻炼所需的肌肉和体能，只是为了抓住一个浪。与滑板、滑雪、滑水不同，你不可能很快成为一名优秀的冲浪者。要想达到中等/良好的水平，需要这需要数年不断的冲浪，这几乎是我们大多数人的水平，当然也有例外。进步很快的年轻人，成为职业选手。我已经冲浪40年了，绝对不是一个出类拔萃的冲浪者（尽管我在某些海浪上，在某些日子里……我们都有这样的时刻）。这很难，当你认为自己在该领域中处于领先地位时，大自然母亲会告诉你谁是老板，并在你最意想不到的时候击败你，这确实是你一生中能做的最好的事情之一，它还是值得付出努力的。
Antonio Pedro, former Dreamer (2001-2017)
It’s hard. Nevertheless it is also rewarding. The big thing about surf is that despite most of the people find it hard, they also can learn how to surf. Today surf school offer many board option that can help anyone to standup on a board and surf a wave, but you must take in account that in order to become a surfer there is a long way. In my case I surf since I am 16, and still learn new things everyday.
这很难，尽管如此，这也是值得的。关于冲浪最重要的事是：尽管大多数人觉得很难，但他们也是能学会如何冲浪的。今天，冲浪学校提供了许多冲浪板选项，可以帮助任何人站在冲浪板上冲浪，但你必须考虑到要成为一名冲浪者还有很长的路要走。就我而言，我从16岁开始冲浪，每天都能学到新东西。
It’s hard. Nevertheless it is also rewarding. The big thing about surf is that despite most of the people find it hard, they also can learn how to surf. Today surf school offer many board option that can help anyone to standup on a board and surf a wave, but you must take in account that in order to become a surfer there is a long way. In my case I surf since I am 16, and still learn new things everyday.
这很难，尽管如此，这也是值得的。关于冲浪最重要的事是：尽管大多数人觉得很难，但他们也是能学会如何冲浪的。今天，冲浪学校提供了许多冲浪板选项，可以帮助任何人站在冲浪板上冲浪，但你必须考虑到要成为一名冲浪者还有很长的路要走。就我而言，我从16岁开始冲浪，每天都能学到新东西。
Bam Alam, lives in Byron Bay, NSW, Australia (1982-present)
巴姆·阿拉姆，居住在澳大利亚新南威尔士州拜伦湾(1982年至今)
巴姆·阿拉姆，居住在澳大利亚新南威尔士州拜伦湾(1982年至今)
I think if you’re really into it, it’s not that hard. My advice as someone who grew up near the ocean is to learn about waves, rips, swell, tides etc to cater to your experience is key. Then there’s equipment. Right board for the conditions. Obviously fitness comes into play. Your whole body is worked hard in the water. You’ll feel sore in muscles you didn’t know you had. Throw some sunburn and sitting in salt water to the mix and you’ll sleep well that night.
我认为如果你真的很喜欢，那就没那么难了。作为一个在海洋附近长大的人，我的建议是了解波浪、裂口、涌浪、潮汐等，以满足你的体验是关键。还有设备，适合环境的合适的冲浪板。很明显，适合环境是很重要的。一直水里学习，你的整个身体会感到肌肉酸痛，这是你当时感觉不到的。把晒伤的皮肤用盐水处理下，晚上你会睡得很好。
我认为如果你真的很喜欢，那就没那么难了。作为一个在海洋附近长大的人，我的建议是了解波浪、裂口、涌浪、潮汐等，以满足你的体验是关键。还有设备，适合环境的合适的冲浪板。很明显，适合环境是很重要的。一直水里学习，你的整个身体会感到肌肉酸痛，这是你当时感觉不到的。把晒伤的皮肤用盐水处理下，晚上你会睡得很好。
Rodrigo Valentim
I disagree.
Why don't you try to learn how clean the toilet? That's difficult to learn, especially because it's way too boring.
Surf is fun, so if you have any kind of hard time learning, maybe you should focus in get more experience before try something that you can't handle, e.g., Can you do pushups with only 2 fingers? Bruce Lee used to do it, so anyone can, right? But can anyone just do it from scratch? You need to be prepared to do something like that and it's not different for surf.
If you want to go pro, so any sport will be difficult, if you just want to have fun, should be easy, if it's not, then you're probably surfing with the wrong board, nowadays you have several options, from body surf up to longboards, just try another style, once you have fun again, time will pass and when you least realize, everything will be easy, at least up to pro level.
我不同意。
你为什么不试着学习如何清洁厕所呢？—很难学，尤其是因为它太无聊了。
冲浪很有趣，所以如果你在学习过程中遇到困难，也许你应该在尝试一些你无法处理的事情之前，集中精力获得更多的经验，例如，你能只用两个手指做俯卧撑吗？李小龙过去经常这样做，所以任何人都可以，对吗？但有人能从头开始练习吗？你需要做好准备去做类似的事情，这和冲浪没什么不同。
如果你想成为职业选手，那么任何运动都会很难，如果你只是想玩，应该就很容易，如果觉得不容易，那么你可能用错了冲浪板，现在你有几种选择，从趴板到长板，只要尝试另一种风格，一旦你再次玩得开心，时间就会过去，当你意识不到的时候，一切都会很容易，至少达到职业水平。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
I disagree.
Why don't you try to learn how clean the toilet? That's difficult to learn, especially because it's way too boring.
Surf is fun, so if you have any kind of hard time learning, maybe you should focus in get more experience before try something that you can't handle, e.g., Can you do pushups with only 2 fingers? Bruce Lee used to do it, so anyone can, right? But can anyone just do it from scratch? You need to be prepared to do something like that and it's not different for surf.
If you want to go pro, so any sport will be difficult, if you just want to have fun, should be easy, if it's not, then you're probably surfing with the wrong board, nowadays you have several options, from body surf up to longboards, just try another style, once you have fun again, time will pass and when you least realize, everything will be easy, at least up to pro level.
我不同意。
你为什么不试着学习如何清洁厕所呢？—很难学，尤其是因为它太无聊了。
冲浪很有趣，所以如果你在学习过程中遇到困难，也许你应该在尝试一些你无法处理的事情之前，集中精力获得更多的经验，例如，你能只用两个手指做俯卧撑吗？李小龙过去经常这样做，所以任何人都可以，对吗？但有人能从头开始练习吗？你需要做好准备去做类似的事情，这和冲浪没什么不同。
如果你想成为职业选手，那么任何运动都会很难，如果你只是想玩，应该就很容易，如果觉得不容易，那么你可能用错了冲浪板，现在你有几种选择，从趴板到长板，只要尝试另一种风格，一旦你再次玩得开心，时间就会过去，当你意识不到的时候，一切都会很容易，至少达到职业水平。
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Joe Wasia, studied International Relations at Universitas Udayana (2017)
Surfing is difficult to learn because we are dealing with nature. And you know how dangerous nature can be!
You may read thousands of articles on the web about learning to surf, but you will never know how to surf until you try it yourself.
I would say you can’t learn surfing just by yourself. You need a surf coach or a surfer friend.
Anyway, most of the surfers now are those growing up and living near beaches - and they are surrounded by surfers.
冲浪很难学，因为我们在与大自然打交道。你知道大自然有多危险！
你在网上可能会读到成千上万篇关于学习冲浪的文章，但除非你亲自尝试，否则你永远不会知道如何冲浪。
我想说，冲浪是不能光靠自学，你需要一个冲浪教练或冲浪朋友。
不管怎样，现在大多数冲浪者都是在海滩附近长大和生活的人，他们周围都是冲浪者。
Surfing is difficult to learn because we are dealing with nature. And you know how dangerous nature can be!
You may read thousands of articles on the web about learning to surf, but you will never know how to surf until you try it yourself.
I would say you can’t learn surfing just by yourself. You need a surf coach or a surfer friend.
Anyway, most of the surfers now are those growing up and living near beaches - and they are surrounded by surfers.
冲浪很难学，因为我们在与大自然打交道。你知道大自然有多危险！
你在网上可能会读到成千上万篇关于学习冲浪的文章，但除非你亲自尝试，否则你永远不会知道如何冲浪。
我想说，冲浪是不能光靠自学，你需要一个冲浪教练或冲浪朋友。
不管怎样，现在大多数冲浪者都是在海滩附近长大和生活的人，他们周围都是冲浪者。
Luca Bisoni, Digital Project Manager (2010-present)
I’ve been surfing for the last 15 years regularly and went to a few renowned surf breaks around the world. I’m Brazilian, on my 30’s, who went to Indonesia, Australia, Morocco, South Africa, Portugal, etc. just for the pleasure of traveling and riding good waves.
You will need to understand how crucial paddling is. Timing is the single most important factor when learning how to surf. A lot of beginners find it difficult as they struggle to gain speed. They put too much effort on evolving their stand up technique or feet positioning that they end up ignoring how to sync in with the wave momentum. It’s a bit like learning how to ride a bike: work on your speed and your balance will come naturally with a bit of time.
To evolve and become an advanced surfer is a different story. It surely won’t happen overnight or even in a few months. You will need plenty of time, perseverance, passion for the sport and, above all, love for the sea.
在过去的15年里，我一直在定期冲浪，并在世界各地参加了几处著名的冲浪胜地。我是个30多岁的巴西人，去了印度尼西亚、澳大利亚、摩洛哥、南非、葡萄牙等地，只是为了旅游和冲浪的乐趣。
你需要了解划水的重要性。学习冲浪时，时间是唯一最重要的因素。很多初学者在努力提高速度的过程中发现这很困难。他们花了太多的精力发展他们的站立技术或脚的位置，最终忽略了如何与波浪动量同步。这有点像学习如何骑自行车：过一段时间你自然而然地掌握平衡。
要想成为一名高级冲浪者则是另一回事。这肯定不会在一夜之间甚至几个月内发生。你需要足够的时间、毅力、对运动的热情，最重要的是对大海的热爱。
I’ve been surfing for the last 15 years regularly and went to a few renowned surf breaks around the world. I’m Brazilian, on my 30’s, who went to Indonesia, Australia, Morocco, South Africa, Portugal, etc. just for the pleasure of traveling and riding good waves.
You will need to understand how crucial paddling is. Timing is the single most important factor when learning how to surf. A lot of beginners find it difficult as they struggle to gain speed. They put too much effort on evolving their stand up technique or feet positioning that they end up ignoring how to sync in with the wave momentum. It’s a bit like learning how to ride a bike: work on your speed and your balance will come naturally with a bit of time.
To evolve and become an advanced surfer is a different story. It surely won’t happen overnight or even in a few months. You will need plenty of time, perseverance, passion for the sport and, above all, love for the sea.
在过去的15年里，我一直在定期冲浪，并在世界各地参加了几处著名的冲浪胜地。我是个30多岁的巴西人，去了印度尼西亚、澳大利亚、摩洛哥、南非、葡萄牙等地，只是为了旅游和冲浪的乐趣。
你需要了解划水的重要性。学习冲浪时，时间是唯一最重要的因素。很多初学者在努力提高速度的过程中发现这很困难。他们花了太多的精力发展他们的站立技术或脚的位置，最终忽略了如何与波浪动量同步。这有点像学习如何骑自行车：过一段时间你自然而然地掌握平衡。
要想成为一名高级冲浪者则是另一回事。这肯定不会在一夜之间甚至几个月内发生。你需要足够的时间、毅力、对运动的热情，最重要的是对大海的热爱。
Elwood Wyatt, 50+ years of surfing on Oahu and in San Diego.
How hard is surfing? If I started surfing today how long until I could stand up on the board and actually ride a wave?
Maybe one day, if you are fit and lucky enough to have surf for your lesson at the proper beach! Maybe up to a week, if you are less fit. After a one hour lesson at age 12, I’d paddled into and ridden a few waves by myself and never needed another lesson - I just rented boards in Waikiki for the rest of my trip and took up surfing for real when my family moved back to Hawaii a year later.
Surfing does depend on your being strong in your upper body - paddling is the hardest thing about surfing. If you are already a strong swimmer you already have a big advantage. Skateboarding skills would also help a fair bit.
Once you’ve ridden your first waves there is still a lot to learn - expect to take at least 5 years to become proficient and learn to read the surf well. But it will be a lot of fun if you’ve come to enjoy the ocean. Just sitting out in the water is enjoyable, even without waves!
冲浪有多难？如果我今天开始冲浪，要多久我才能站在冲浪板上冲浪？
如果你足够健康和幸运，也许一天就可以在合适的海滩上冲浪上课！如果你身体素质不太好，可能要一周。在12岁时上了一个小时的课后，我独自划过几次浪后，再也不需要上第二次课了——我只是在威基基海滩租了几块冲浪板，在剩下的旅程中，当我的家人一年后搬回夏威夷时，我开始真正的冲浪。
冲浪确实取决于你的上半身是否强壮——划水是冲浪最难的事情。如果你已经是一个游泳健将，你就已经有很大的优势了。滑板技巧也会有很大的帮助。
一旦你踏上了第一次冲浪的旅程，还有很多东西需要学习——至少需要5年的时间才能精通冲浪，并学会识别浪波。但如果你是来享受海洋的，那会很有趣。即使没有波浪，坐在水里也是一种享受！
How hard is surfing? If I started surfing today how long until I could stand up on the board and actually ride a wave?
Maybe one day, if you are fit and lucky enough to have surf for your lesson at the proper beach! Maybe up to a week, if you are less fit. After a one hour lesson at age 12, I’d paddled into and ridden a few waves by myself and never needed another lesson - I just rented boards in Waikiki for the rest of my trip and took up surfing for real when my family moved back to Hawaii a year later.
Surfing does depend on your being strong in your upper body - paddling is the hardest thing about surfing. If you are already a strong swimmer you already have a big advantage. Skateboarding skills would also help a fair bit.
Once you’ve ridden your first waves there is still a lot to learn - expect to take at least 5 years to become proficient and learn to read the surf well. But it will be a lot of fun if you’ve come to enjoy the ocean. Just sitting out in the water is enjoyable, even without waves!
冲浪有多难？如果我今天开始冲浪，要多久我才能站在冲浪板上冲浪？
如果你足够健康和幸运，也许一天就可以在合适的海滩上冲浪上课！如果你身体素质不太好，可能要一周。在12岁时上了一个小时的课后，我独自划过几次浪后，再也不需要上第二次课了——我只是在威基基海滩租了几块冲浪板，在剩下的旅程中，当我的家人一年后搬回夏威夷时，我开始真正的冲浪。
冲浪确实取决于你的上半身是否强壮——划水是冲浪最难的事情。如果你已经是一个游泳健将，你就已经有很大的优势了。滑板技巧也会有很大的帮助。
一旦你踏上了第一次冲浪的旅程，还有很多东西需要学习——至少需要5年的时间才能精通冲浪，并学会识别浪波。但如果你是来享受海洋的，那会很有趣。即使没有波浪，坐在水里也是一种享受！
Michael Bruton, Casual but passionate surfer.
Can I learn to surf? I am older than 20 and never did.
I am 33 and just started surfing last summer. It has changed my life. I have never had a hobby (not a sporty person and not in particularly good shape) that I have been as excited about as surfing.
Ten months in I am a horrible surfer, but I am SO much better than I was. Even the bad surf days are a lesson in paddling, sitting, swimming, and sunning. Even when you’re not good enough to catch a wave (a good popup for me happens about once every 3 sessions, if that) you still get this amazing cocktail of sun, exercise, fun, adventure, and a connection with nature that you’ve never had anywhere else. There are so many skills to learn that each session provides you with something, and when you get better at those skills it is IMMENSELY satisfying.
On my hour drives home from the beach (I go at least three times a week in the summer despite the drive) I am mellow, calm, and in a good mood even if I have been doing nothing but getting slammed all day. Some days I make it a goal to wipe out at least ten times because even if I can’t get up at least I’ll know I’m doing my best to get into the waves. The cool thing about surfing is that even failing at it is the most fun you’ll have all month!
我能学冲浪吗？我已经20多岁了，从来没有冲过浪。
我今年33岁，去年夏天才开始冲浪。它改变了我的生活。从来没有一个爱好（不是一个运动型的人，身材也不是特别好）像冲浪一样让我兴奋。
十个月来，尽管冲浪水平很烂，但我比以前好多了。即使是糟糕的冲浪日也是划板、坐着、游泳和晒太阳的一课。即使你还不够好，不能赶上一个浪潮（对我来说，每3次就会出现一次好的冲浪日），你仍然可以在这里享受到阳光、锻炼、乐趣、冒险，以及你在其他任何地方都不曾有过的与大自然的联系，这是你在其他任何地方都没有过的。有很多技能需要学习，每节课都会为你提供一些东西，当你在这些技能上做得更好时，你会非常满意。
在我从海滩开车回家的时间里（尽管需要开车回家，但我在夏天仍然每周至少要去三次），我很成熟，很冷静，心情也很好，即使我整天都在忙着做其他的事情。有些时候，我的目标是至少10次，因为即使我不能站起来，至少我会知道我在尽最大努力进入海浪。冲浪最酷的一点是，即使失败了，这也是你整个月最有趣的事！
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
Can I learn to surf? I am older than 20 and never did.
I am 33 and just started surfing last summer. It has changed my life. I have never had a hobby (not a sporty person and not in particularly good shape) that I have been as excited about as surfing.
Ten months in I am a horrible surfer, but I am SO much better than I was. Even the bad surf days are a lesson in paddling, sitting, swimming, and sunning. Even when you’re not good enough to catch a wave (a good popup for me happens about once every 3 sessions, if that) you still get this amazing cocktail of sun, exercise, fun, adventure, and a connection with nature that you’ve never had anywhere else. There are so many skills to learn that each session provides you with something, and when you get better at those skills it is IMMENSELY satisfying.
On my hour drives home from the beach (I go at least three times a week in the summer despite the drive) I am mellow, calm, and in a good mood even if I have been doing nothing but getting slammed all day. Some days I make it a goal to wipe out at least ten times because even if I can’t get up at least I’ll know I’m doing my best to get into the waves. The cool thing about surfing is that even failing at it is the most fun you’ll have all month!
我能学冲浪吗？我已经20多岁了，从来没有冲过浪。
我今年33岁，去年夏天才开始冲浪。它改变了我的生活。从来没有一个爱好（不是一个运动型的人，身材也不是特别好）像冲浪一样让我兴奋。
十个月来，尽管冲浪水平很烂，但我比以前好多了。即使是糟糕的冲浪日也是划板、坐着、游泳和晒太阳的一课。即使你还不够好，不能赶上一个浪潮（对我来说，每3次就会出现一次好的冲浪日），你仍然可以在这里享受到阳光、锻炼、乐趣、冒险，以及你在其他任何地方都不曾有过的与大自然的联系，这是你在其他任何地方都没有过的。有很多技能需要学习，每节课都会为你提供一些东西，当你在这些技能上做得更好时，你会非常满意。
在我从海滩开车回家的时间里（尽管需要开车回家，但我在夏天仍然每周至少要去三次），我很成熟，很冷静，心情也很好，即使我整天都在忙着做其他的事情。有些时候，我的目标是至少10次，因为即使我不能站起来，至少我会知道我在尽最大努力进入海浪。冲浪最酷的一点是，即使失败了，这也是你整个月最有趣的事！
原创翻译：龙腾网 https://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处
And when you succeed it is incomparable. Last September I was surfing in conditions that were probably too big for me in St. Augustine. I was a good three hundred yards out trying to get into some of the residual swell from a hurricane. I somehow got into a monster and suddenly I was sitting on my knees (didn’t quite pop all the way up) skating across this beautiful slab of water reflecting the gold orange of the setting sun and it was sea spray and wind and speed and it took my breath away. That’s not figurative. When the water cleared I and I saw where I was my breath caught in my chest and I didn’t dare breathe for fear I would crush the moment. I’ve never had a feeling like that in my whole decently-well-lived life.
I haven’t ridden a wave like that since but I am going to spend the rest of my life trying to. I’m hooked and it has been such a blessing.
It doesn’t matter if you’re older than 20 or older than 60. Don’t be intimidated, don’t be scared. Get out in the lineup, learn every day, and love it man. I’m so glad I took the opportunity despite my “advanced” age.
当你成功时，其快乐是无与伦比的。去年9月，我在圣奥古斯丁冲浪，那儿环境对我来说可能太恶劣了。我在三百码外试图进入飓风留下的残余涌浪。不知怎的，突然变得难以驾驭起来，我跪坐着（一路上都没有跳起来），滑过这片美丽的水面，反射着夕阳的金橙色，海水的浪花、风和速度让我屏住呼吸，这不是比喻哦。当水清澈时，我看到了自己的位置，我喘不过气来，我不敢呼吸，担心会毁了这个时刻。我这辈子从来没有过这样的感觉。
从那以后，我再也没有经历过这样的风浪，但我将用我的余生去尝试。我被迷住了，这是一种祝福。
不管你是20岁还是60岁。
不要恐惧，不要害怕。加入学习的阵容，每天学习，热爱它。我很高兴我抓住了这个机会，尽管我已经“高龄”。
I haven’t ridden a wave like that since but I am going to spend the rest of my life trying to. I’m hooked and it has been such a blessing.
It doesn’t matter if you’re older than 20 or older than 60. Don’t be intimidated, don’t be scared. Get out in the lineup, learn every day, and love it man. I’m so glad I took the opportunity despite my “advanced” age.
当你成功时，其快乐是无与伦比的。去年9月，我在圣奥古斯丁冲浪，那儿环境对我来说可能太恶劣了。我在三百码外试图进入飓风留下的残余涌浪。不知怎的，突然变得难以驾驭起来，我跪坐着（一路上都没有跳起来），滑过这片美丽的水面，反射着夕阳的金橙色，海水的浪花、风和速度让我屏住呼吸，这不是比喻哦。当水清澈时，我看到了自己的位置，我喘不过气来，我不敢呼吸，担心会毁了这个时刻。我这辈子从来没有过这样的感觉。
从那以后，我再也没有经历过这样的风浪，但我将用我的余生去尝试。我被迷住了，这是一种祝福。
不管你是20岁还是60岁。
不要恐惧，不要害怕。加入学习的阵容，每天学习，热爱它。我很高兴我抓住了这个机会，尽管我已经“高龄”。
Kevin Fleming, Follow Me on Instagram Xxxsurfstar
What's the cause of death in surfing accidents?
Drowning is the obvious answer, but it's what happens before that causes the drowning . Sometimes In shallow water you will strike a rock or the reef with your head, knocking you unconscious and then you drown. Or you can hit your board with your head with the same results .
Then there are shark attacks, very rare. But then there are the total freak occurrences. You can get sliced with the fins on the bottom of your board, anywhere from your foot to your head, possibly slicing your throat or somewhere else where you bleed out in the water before you can get help.
Cardiac arrest from over exertion can happen, surfing can be an intense workout , and as surfers age, the stress we put on our hearts can cause a heart attack. A Broken neck can also occur when the head hits the reef or rocks underwater . And sadly, drug overdose in the lineup has occurred , crystal meth levels in surfers who have died in the water have been found to be fatal, and can also cause a heart attack or contribute to poor decision making. Surfing big waves while high on meth is itself a poor decision. A great but sad article about Peter Davi and his last ride can be read at “The Death of a World Class Surfer”, chronicling an epic swell and the death of a Legend.
Here is a freak incident that almost cost me my life. I was surfing Pavones, Costa Rica, with nearly mile long rides. If you have never surfed an extremely long wave, it's unreal. I used to say” i get more practice on one wave at Pavones than I do all year in Delaware. “ And it takes A LOT out of you, you need to be in excellent cardiovascular condition .
冲浪事故中的死亡原因是什么？
溺水是显而易见的答案，但溺水之前发生的事才是原因。有时在浅水里，头撞到岩石或礁石后被撞晕，然后淹死。或者你的头撞你的板，得到同样的结果。
还有鲨鱼袭击，非常罕见。但也有一些奇怪的事情发生。你可能会被板底的鳍划伤，在你得到帮助之前，可能割破你的喉咙或者其他什么地方，你就在水里流血而死。
过度劳累可能导致心脏骤停，冲浪可能是一种剧烈运动，随着冲浪者年龄的增长，我们对心脏施加的压力可能会导致心脏病发作。当头部撞到暗礁或水下岩石时，也可能发生颈部骨折。可悲的是，药物过量的情况已经出现，在水中死亡的冲浪者体内的冰毒水平已经被发现是致命的，还可能导致心脏病发作或导致决策失误。在服用冰毒的情况下去冲浪是一个糟糕的决定。一篇关于彼得·戴维和他最后一次冲浪的伟大而悲伤的文章可以在“世界级冲浪者之死”上读到，它记录了一个史诗般的巨浪和一个传奇的死亡。
这是一件差点让我丧命的怪事。我在哥斯达黎加的帕沃斯冲浪，有将近一英里长的旅程。如果你从来没有在一个非常长的波浪上冲过浪，那是不真实的。我过去常说“我在帕沃斯的一次练习比我在特拉华的一整年都要多。”这需要你付出很多，你需要保持良好的心血管状况。
What's the cause of death in surfing accidents?
Drowning is the obvious answer, but it's what happens before that causes the drowning . Sometimes In shallow water you will strike a rock or the reef with your head, knocking you unconscious and then you drown. Or you can hit your board with your head with the same results .
Then there are shark attacks, very rare. But then there are the total freak occurrences. You can get sliced with the fins on the bottom of your board, anywhere from your foot to your head, possibly slicing your throat or somewhere else where you bleed out in the water before you can get help.
Cardiac arrest from over exertion can happen, surfing can be an intense workout , and as surfers age, the stress we put on our hearts can cause a heart attack. A Broken neck can also occur when the head hits the reef or rocks underwater . And sadly, drug overdose in the lineup has occurred , crystal meth levels in surfers who have died in the water have been found to be fatal, and can also cause a heart attack or contribute to poor decision making. Surfing big waves while high on meth is itself a poor decision. A great but sad article about Peter Davi and his last ride can be read at “The Death of a World Class Surfer”, chronicling an epic swell and the death of a Legend.
Here is a freak incident that almost cost me my life. I was surfing Pavones, Costa Rica, with nearly mile long rides. If you have never surfed an extremely long wave, it's unreal. I used to say” i get more practice on one wave at Pavones than I do all year in Delaware. “ And it takes A LOT out of you, you need to be in excellent cardiovascular condition .
冲浪事故中的死亡原因是什么？
溺水是显而易见的答案，但溺水之前发生的事才是原因。有时在浅水里，头撞到岩石或礁石后被撞晕，然后淹死。或者你的头撞你的板，得到同样的结果。
还有鲨鱼袭击，非常罕见。但也有一些奇怪的事情发生。你可能会被板底的鳍划伤，在你得到帮助之前，可能割破你的喉咙或者其他什么地方，你就在水里流血而死。
过度劳累可能导致心脏骤停，冲浪可能是一种剧烈运动，随着冲浪者年龄的增长，我们对心脏施加的压力可能会导致心脏病发作。当头部撞到暗礁或水下岩石时，也可能发生颈部骨折。可悲的是，药物过量的情况已经出现，在水中死亡的冲浪者体内的冰毒水平已经被发现是致命的，还可能导致心脏病发作或导致决策失误。在服用冰毒的情况下去冲浪是一个糟糕的决定。一篇关于彼得·戴维和他最后一次冲浪的伟大而悲伤的文章可以在“世界级冲浪者之死”上读到，它记录了一个史诗般的巨浪和一个传奇的死亡。
这是一件差点让我丧命的怪事。我在哥斯达黎加的帕沃斯冲浪，有将近一英里长的旅程。如果你从来没有在一个非常长的波浪上冲过浪，那是不真实的。我过去常说“我在帕沃斯的一次练习比我在特拉华的一整年都要多。”这需要你付出很多，你需要保持良好的心血管状况。
So I was riding a long Pavones left in about 6–8 foot waves, and had ridden it about 100–200 yards, an extremely long ride anywhere else in the world. As I was falling, I tried to take a deep breath, but inhaled a fair amount of sea foam .
Immediately my lungs began to spasm, my body reacting to the liquids entry into my body's breathing apparatus .
Now this would be a challenging situation at any time.
On land it's a situation where a coughing fit would ensue for half a minute, maybe more. But I had just surfed for 45 seconds of intense carving on a 6 foot wave , and I was winded, and I was starving for air. I was going to be in a sticky situation even BEFORE I inhaled the water into my lungs. So now my body wanted very badly to breath deep and replenish my bloods oxygen levels, but the liquid had sent my body into spasms. Then i went underwater and got tumbled around and pummeled by a giant Pacific wave as my body fought itself, fighting over what it needed to do, what it wanted to do, and what it was dealing with, and the result was….nothing .
I couldn't cough, I couldn't breathe, I couldn't clear my throat, meanwhile my brain was telling my body to “ BREATHE DEEP, IN and OUT, BREATH…. And I'm still underwater , trying to surface and not panic . I surfaced, trying to relax, trying to cough, and trying to breathe, but at least now that my head was above water I would be able breathe air, if only I could get my lungs to quit spasming. I told my body to relax and inhale, but couldn't.
所以我在一个6-8英尺高的浪头上冲了很长的时间，冲了大约100-200码的距离，这在世界上其他任何地方都可以说是非常长的波浪了。当我摔倒的时候，我试着深呼吸，但吸入了大量的海沫。
我的肺立刻开始痉挛，我的身体对进入身体呼吸器官的液体作出反应。
现在的情况是在任何时候都将是一个具有挑战性的情况。
在陆地上，咳嗽会持续半分钟，甚至更长时间。但我刚刚在一个6英尺高的海浪上冲浪45秒，我感到喘不过气来，渴望呼吸。甚至在我把水吸入肺部之前，我就已经处于一种棘手状态。所以现在我的身体非常想深呼吸，补充血液中的氧气，但是液体让我的身体痉挛。然后我潜入水中，翻滚着，被太平洋的巨浪击打着，当我的身体与自己斗争时，争论它需要做什么，它想做什么，它正在处理什么，结果是....什么都没有。
我不能咳嗽，我不能呼吸，我不能清我的喉咙，同时我的大脑告诉我的身体“深呼吸，吸气和呼气，呼吸....我还在水下，试着浮出水面，不要惊慌。我浮出水面，试图放松，试图咳嗽，试图呼吸，不过，现在我的头露出了水面，只要我的肺不再抽筋，我就可以呼吸空气了。我告诉我的身体放松和吸气，但不能。
Immediately my lungs began to spasm, my body reacting to the liquids entry into my body's breathing apparatus .
Now this would be a challenging situation at any time.
On land it's a situation where a coughing fit would ensue for half a minute, maybe more. But I had just surfed for 45 seconds of intense carving on a 6 foot wave , and I was winded, and I was starving for air. I was going to be in a sticky situation even BEFORE I inhaled the water into my lungs. So now my body wanted very badly to breath deep and replenish my bloods oxygen levels, but the liquid had sent my body into spasms. Then i went underwater and got tumbled around and pummeled by a giant Pacific wave as my body fought itself, fighting over what it needed to do, what it wanted to do, and what it was dealing with, and the result was….nothing .
I couldn't cough, I couldn't breathe, I couldn't clear my throat, meanwhile my brain was telling my body to “ BREATHE DEEP, IN and OUT, BREATH…. And I'm still underwater , trying to surface and not panic . I surfaced, trying to relax, trying to cough, and trying to breathe, but at least now that my head was above water I would be able breathe air, if only I could get my lungs to quit spasming. I told my body to relax and inhale, but couldn't.
所以我在一个6-8英尺高的浪头上冲了很长的时间，冲了大约100-200码的距离，这在世界上其他任何地方都可以说是非常长的波浪了。当我摔倒的时候，我试着深呼吸，但吸入了大量的海沫。
我的肺立刻开始痉挛，我的身体对进入身体呼吸器官的液体作出反应。
现在的情况是在任何时候都将是一个具有挑战性的情况。
在陆地上，咳嗽会持续半分钟，甚至更长时间。但我刚刚在一个6英尺高的海浪上冲浪45秒，我感到喘不过气来，渴望呼吸。甚至在我把水吸入肺部之前，我就已经处于一种棘手状态。所以现在我的身体非常想深呼吸，补充血液中的氧气，但是液体让我的身体痉挛。然后我潜入水中，翻滚着，被太平洋的巨浪击打着，当我的身体与自己斗争时，争论它需要做什么，它想做什么，它正在处理什么，结果是....什么都没有。
我不能咳嗽，我不能呼吸，我不能清我的喉咙，同时我的大脑告诉我的身体“深呼吸，吸气和呼气，呼吸....我还在水下，试着浮出水面，不要惊慌。我浮出水面，试图放松，试图咳嗽，试图呼吸，不过，现在我的头露出了水面，只要我的肺不再抽筋，我就可以呼吸空气了。我告诉我的身体放松和吸气，但不能。
Suddenly I was pummeled again by a wall of whitewater. I didn't even see it coming, and I was tumbling around underwater as my body became more deprived and starved for oxygen. I couldn't even cough, and I remembered before giving a person the Heimlich maneuver , you always asked “ can U speak ? Because if a person can speak or cough , or make any noise at all, just leave them alone and watch them carefully, because their bodies defenses are dealing with it. It's only when a person CANT cough or talk, or make any noise at all that they are in trouble. The body's self defense mechanisms are overwhelmed and the motions that would normally fix it aren't working . Thats where I was, I couldn't cough, I couldn't breathe, I was just silently in the throes of that gagging spasm, and seconds were ticking by. This would have been a terrible situation to be in on land, and I was in the ocean getting pounded by whitewater, exhausted, wanting, and NEEDING air but unable to breathe , and I was starting to get nervous. I was near panicking , and I knew that this could be the end. I was going to die because I was winded after a 100 yard wave and when I needed air badly, instead had inhaled water and prevented the much needed oxygen exchange from taking place. The wave in Pavones is ridden parallel to the shore, so I was about 100 feet from beach , but i couldn't yell for help and I knew something had to happen soon.
I knew that in order to stop the spasms, I had to relax my diaphragm , and so I tried, and at the same time I tried to cough up some of the water from my lungs. I managed to relax a little finally , and took a small gasp of air. A very small gasp, because the water that was still in my lungs prevented me from inhaling much air.
突然，我又被一堵白水墙砸了。我甚至没有看到它的到来，我在水下翻滚，因为我的身体变得更加缺乏氧气，甚至不能咳嗽，我记得在给人做海姆利克动作之前，你总是问“你会说话吗？因为如果一个人会说话或咳嗽，或发出任何噪音，就让他们单独呆着，仔细观察他们，因为他们的身体防御系统正在处理这个问题。只有当一个人不能咳嗽或说话，或发出任何噪音时，他们才有麻烦。身体的自我防御机制不堪重负，正常情况下能够修复它的运动也不起作用。那就是我当时的状态，”我不能咳嗽，我不能呼吸，我只是默默地在那令人作呕的痉挛中挣扎，时间一秒一秒地过去。如果我在陆地上，情况会很糟糕，我在海里被白水击打，筋疲力尽，需要空气，但无法呼吸，我开始紧张起来，几乎惊慌失措，我知道这可能是结局—会死，因为我在100码外的海浪中喘不过气来，而当我急需空气时，却吸入了水，阻止了急需的氧气交换。帕沃斯的海浪与海岸平行，所以我离海滩大约有100英尺，但我不能喊救命，我知道马上就要出事了。
我知道为了停止痉挛，我必须放松我的横膈膜，所以我试着放松的同时我试着从肺里咳出一些水。我终于设法放松了一点，吸了一口气。我喘了一口气，因为水还在我的肺里，使我无法吸入太多空气。
I knew that in order to stop the spasms, I had to relax my diaphragm , and so I tried, and at the same time I tried to cough up some of the water from my lungs. I managed to relax a little finally , and took a small gasp of air. A very small gasp, because the water that was still in my lungs prevented me from inhaling much air.
突然，我又被一堵白水墙砸了。我甚至没有看到它的到来，我在水下翻滚，因为我的身体变得更加缺乏氧气，甚至不能咳嗽，我记得在给人做海姆利克动作之前，你总是问“你会说话吗？因为如果一个人会说话或咳嗽，或发出任何噪音，就让他们单独呆着，仔细观察他们，因为他们的身体防御系统正在处理这个问题。只有当一个人不能咳嗽或说话，或发出任何噪音时，他们才有麻烦。身体的自我防御机制不堪重负，正常情况下能够修复它的运动也不起作用。那就是我当时的状态，”我不能咳嗽，我不能呼吸，我只是默默地在那令人作呕的痉挛中挣扎，时间一秒一秒地过去。如果我在陆地上，情况会很糟糕，我在海里被白水击打，筋疲力尽，需要空气，但无法呼吸，我开始紧张起来，几乎惊慌失措，我知道这可能是结局—会死，因为我在100码外的海浪中喘不过气来，而当我急需空气时，却吸入了水，阻止了急需的氧气交换。帕沃斯的海浪与海岸平行，所以我离海滩大约有100英尺，但我不能喊救命，我知道马上就要出事了。
我知道为了停止痉挛，我必须放松我的横膈膜，所以我试着放松的同时我试着从肺里咳出一些水。我终于设法放松了一点，吸了一口气。我喘了一口气，因为水还在我的肺里，使我无法吸入太多空气。
Boom! I got hit again by another wave, the whitewater taking me by surprise . I wasn't paying attention because i was focused on trying to breathe. I had no idea where my board was, it was around somewhere , but I had too much going on to try and find it, and I needed a break, just 5 seconds to get my head straight , for confusion and panic was taking over. I knew that I was close to drowning. Suddenly I heard a voice say“ Are you ok ?”
突然我又被另一波海浪击中，白浪让我大吃一惊。因为我专注于呼吸而没有注意。我不知道我的冲浪板在哪里，它就在附近的某个地方，但我有太多的事情要去尝试和找到它，我需要休息，我只用了5秒钟就理清了思路，因为混乱和恐慌占据了我的大脑。我知道我快要淹死了。突然我听到一个声音说：“你还好吗？”
突然我又被另一波海浪击中，白浪让我大吃一惊。因为我专注于呼吸而没有注意。我不知道我的冲浪板在哪里，它就在附近的某个地方，但我有太多的事情要去尝试和找到它，我需要休息，我只用了5秒钟就理清了思路，因为混乱和恐慌占据了我的大脑。我知道我快要淹死了。突然我听到一个声音说：“你还好吗？”
An older long boarder was paddling toward me, After about 15 small gasps, and bigger and bigger coughs, I could inhale almost a normal breath and almost exhale without coughing . At this point my fight to breathe was over, now I just had to catch my breath. It took me about 2 minutes of rapid breathing before I could slow it down and it wasn't until later that night that I could take a deep breath without setting off a coughing fit.Thank God that surfer recognized I was in trouble . If he hadn't paddled over and let me grab his board to relax and steady myself I was going to die.
一个年长的冲浪运动员向我划来，在大约15次小喘息和越来越大的咳嗽之后，我几乎可以正常呼吸，几乎可以呼气而不咳嗽。此时，我为呼吸而奋斗的过程已经结束，现在我只能屏住呼吸。我花了大约2分钟的时间快速呼吸，然后才放慢速度，直到那天晚上晚些时候，我才可以深呼吸而不引起咳嗽。感谢上帝，那个冲浪者意识到我有麻烦了，如果他没有划过去，让我抓住他的冲浪板放松并稳住自己，我就会死。
一个年长的冲浪运动员向我划来，在大约15次小喘息和越来越大的咳嗽之后，我几乎可以正常呼吸，几乎可以呼气而不咳嗽。此时，我为呼吸而奋斗的过程已经结束，现在我只能屏住呼吸。我花了大约2分钟的时间快速呼吸，然后才放慢速度，直到那天晚上晚些时候，我才可以深呼吸而不引起咳嗽。感谢上帝，那个冲浪者意识到我有麻烦了，如果他没有划过去，让我抓住他的冲浪板放松并稳住自己，我就会死。
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