从沙皇到 Z 世代：俄罗斯校服从未消亡
正文翻译
From czars to zoomers Russia’s school uniform never died
从沙皇到 Z 世代：俄罗斯校服从未消亡
From imperial tunics to Soviet aprons to today’s national standards, the uniform has shaped how Russians see equality, order, and tradition in the classroom
从帝俄时期的制服到苏联的围裙装，再到如今的国家标准，校服塑造了俄罗斯人对课堂中平等、秩序与传统的认知
In Russia, September 1 is more than just the start of a new school year. Known as the Day of Knowledge, it is a national ritual celebrated in every town and city.
在俄罗斯，9 月 1 日不仅是新学年的开始。作为"知识节"，这个全国性仪式在每座城镇都举行庆祝活动
On this morning, schoolyards turn into small festivals: Girls in crisp blouses with white ribbons in their hair, boys in freshly pressed suits, the air filled with the scent of asters and chrysanthemums brought as gifts for teachers. Parents gather with cameras, loudspeakers crackle with speeches, and the ringing of the first bell marks the beginning of the academic year.
这个清晨，校园变成了小型庆典现场：女孩们穿着笔挺的衬衫，发间系着白丝带；男孩们身着熨烫一新的西装；空气中飘荡着作为教师节礼物的紫菀与菊花的芬芳。家长们举着相机聚集在一起，扩音器里传来演讲的杂音，随着第一声上课铃响起，新学年正式拉开帷幕。
At the center of this ritual is the school uniform.
这场仪式的核心正是校服。
Generations of Russians recall its look and feel – from the brown dresses and white aprons of Soviet schoolgirls to the blue jackets of boys with the emblem of an open book stitched on the sleeve. For Russians, the uniform is more than a dress code. It is part of a cultural tradition that conveys discipline, equality, and belonging. And its history, stretching back nearly two centuries, mirrors the broader story of Russian society itself.
一代代俄罗斯人仍记得校服的样貌与触感——从苏联女生穿的棕色连衣裙配白色围裙，到男生衣袖上绣着打开书本徽章的蓝色夹克。对俄罗斯人而言，校服不仅是着装规范，更是传递纪律、平等与归属感的文化传统组成部分。其历史可追溯至近两百年前，映照着俄罗斯社会更宏大的变迁故事。
Origins of the school uniform
校服的起源
The story of the school uniform begins not in Russia but in Britain. In the 16th century, Christ’s Hospital, a charitable school for orphans and children from poor families, introduced a distinctive Tudor-style outfit: Long blue coats, pleated skirts for girls, and breeches for boys. In England, uniform was associated with poverty and charity – clothing meant to signal modest means.
校服的故事并非始于俄罗斯，而是源于英国。16 世纪时，为孤儿和贫寒家庭子女设立的慈善学校基督公学首次引入都铎风格特色制服：男生身着蓝色长外套与马裤，女生则穿百褶裙。在英格兰，校服曾与贫困和慈善相关联——这种服饰意在表明穿着者的清寒身份。
When the idea crossed into Russia, it was transformed. In 1834, Tsar Nicholas I, a monarch with a passion for order and discipline, approved the ‘Regulations on Civil Uniforms’. From that moment, not only state officials but also students at gymnasiums and lyceums were required to wear prescribed dress.
当这一理念传入俄罗斯后，发生了本质转变。1834 年，崇尚秩序与纪律的沙皇尼古拉一世批准《文官制服条例》。自此不仅政府官员，中学和贵族学校的学生也必须穿着规定服装。
Boys appeared in dark-green tunics with blue collars, gold or silver trim, and matching caps; girls, as female education expanded, wore modest long brown dresses with aprons – black for everyday use, white for festive occasions.
男生制服为带蓝色立领的墨绿色束腰外衣，配以金银镶边与同色制帽；随着女子教育发展，女生需穿着朴素的棕色长裙配围裙——平日用黑色围裙，节庆场合则换白色。
The Russian school uniform was modeled on military attire and carried a different symbolism than in Britain. Rather than signaling poverty, it marked status. Only families who were wealthy enough could send their children to gymnasiums, and the uniform became a visible badge of belonging to the educated class.
俄罗斯的校服仿照军装设计，其象征意义与英国截然不同。它并非贫困的标志，而是身份的象征。只有足够富裕的家庭才能送孩子上文理中学，校服成为受教育阶层显而易见的归属徽章。
By the late 19th century, green jackets gave way to dark blue, ornate standing collars alternated with simpler turn-down styles, and gymnasium boys were mockingly nicknamed ‘blue beef’ for their dark-blue coats. Girls’ uniforms, though less strictly regulated, also developed traditions: Younger pupils wore darker shades, older ones lighter, a hierarchy of colors preserved at elite institutions like the Smolny Institute.
到 19 世纪末，绿色外套被深蓝色取代，繁复的立领与简约的翻领交替出现，文理中学男生因其深蓝色外套被戏称为"蓝牛肉"。女生制服虽规定较宽松，也形成了传统：低年级穿深色，高年级穿浅色，这种色彩等级制度在斯莫尔尼学院等精英学府得以保留。
By the 1880s, the student cap with a leather visor and emblem made it possible to tell at a glance which school a boy attended. And although daily wear grew more practical – gymnasts’ tunics or simpler woolen coats – the principle remained unchanged: The uniform was a civic version of the military coat, a lesson in discipline, and a marker of social standing.
1880 年代，带有皮制帽檐和徽章的学生帽让人一眼就能辨认出男生所属的学校。尽管日常穿着变得更实用——体操服或简朴的羊毛外套——但原则始终未变：校服是军装的民用版本，是纪律教育的载体，也是社会地位的标识。
Revolution, rejection, and return
革命、废止与回归
The Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 swept away many of the symbols of imperial Russia, and the school uniform was among them. To the new authorities, gymnasium tunics and aprons represented both social inequality and the ‘unfreedom’ of the student – an outward sign of belonging to the privileged classes.
1917 年的布尔什维克革命扫除了帝俄时代的诸多象征，校服便是其中之一。在新政权眼中，文理中学的束腰外衣和围裙既象征着社会不平等，也代表着学生的"不自由"——这是属于特权阶层的外在标志。
There was also a more pragmatic reason: The impoverished state, and no less impoverished parents, simply had no resources to supply children with specially tailored clothing. In the 1920s and 1930s, students came to school in whatever they had, and uniform became a relic of the past.
这背后还存在更现实的原因：贫困的国家与同样拮据的家庭，根本无力为孩子们提供特制的服装。在 1920 至 1930 年代，学生们穿着日常便服上学，校服逐渐成为历史遗存。
The first steps toward reintroducing uniforms came not in general schools but in vocational and technical institutions.
恢复校服的第一步并非始于普通学校，而是职业技术院校。
From the 1940s, craft and railway schools adopted standard dress, complete with insignia on caps and badges on belts. In these cases, uniforms were issued at state expense, which not only reinforced discipline but also encouraged many to continue their education.
自 20 世纪 40 年代起，工艺学校和铁路学校开始采用统一制服，配有帽徽和腰带扣章。这些校服由国家出资配发，不仅强化了纪律性，还激励了许多人继续求学。
The decisive turn came after World War II. In 1948, the Soviet authorities formally restored the school uniform in general education, drawing on pre-revolutionary models. Boys wore gray tunics with belts and caps, marked with a distinctive ‘Ш’ – the Cyrillic letter ‘Sh’ for ‘shkola’ (school) – on both the cap badge and belt buckle. Girls appeared in brown dresses with removable white collars and cuffs, black aprons for everyday use, and white aprons for holidays.
决定性转变发生在二战后。1948 年，苏联当局正式在普通教育中恢复校服制度，借鉴了革命前的样式。男生穿着带腰带的灰色束腰外衣和帽子，帽徽与腰带扣上都饰有醒目的西里尔字母"Ш"（意为"学校"）。女生则身着棕色连衣裙，配有可拆卸的白色领口和袖口，日常系黑色围裙，节日则换白色围裙。
The symbolism was deliberate. In a country devastated by war and rebuilding from ruins, uniforms embodied the idea of equality, unity, and a hopeful future. Just as factories and housing blocks were standardized, so too was the appearance of the Soviet schoolchild – disciplined, neat, and part of a collective whole.
这种设计蕴含深意。在饱受战争摧残、正从废墟中重建的国家里，校服象征着平等、团结与充满希望的未来。正如工厂和住宅区都采用标准化建设，苏联学生的形象也被塑造成纪律严明、整洁有序的集体一员。
Soviet transformations
苏联时期的变革
By the mid-1950s, the gray tunics of postwar boys had already shown their flaws. Ink stains and constant wear made them impractical, and in 1954 the uniform shifted to dark blue. Senior students were gradually released from the obligation to wear full uniform, though badges, red pioneer scarves, and Komsomol pins remained visible symbols of youth organizations.
到了 1950 年代中期，战后男生的灰色制服已显露出种种弊端。墨水渍和频繁穿着使其变得不实用，于是在 1954 年制服改为深蓝色。高年级学生逐渐被免除全套制服的要求，不过徽章、红领巾和共青团徽章仍是青年组织的鲜明标志。
For girls, the brown dress with its black or white apron proved remarkably durable. Worn with removable collars and cuffs, paired with white socks or tights, and accompanied by neatly braided hair tied with ribbons, it became one of the most recognizable images of Soviet childhood.
对女孩们而言，这种搭配黑色或白色围裙的棕色连衣裙展现出惊人的持久力。可拆卸的领口与袖口、白色短袜或连裤袜，再配上用丝带扎起的整齐发辫，这套装束成为苏联童年最具辨识度的形象之一。
The strict rules forbade jewelry or makeup, and teachers vigilantly enforced these standards. Only in the 1980s did girls’ uniforms undergo significant change, with the introduction of blue three-piece suits – skirt, vest, and jacket – or jumpers for younger pupils. In colder regions, trousers were permitted for the first time.
严格的校规禁止佩戴首饰或化妆，教师们始终严格执行这些标准。直到 20 世纪 80 年代，女生校服才迎来重大变革，开始采用蓝色三件套——短裙、马甲和西装外套，低年级学生则改穿背心裙。在寒冷地区，女生首次被允许穿着长裤。
Boys’ wardrobes changed more frequently. In the early 1960s, the military-style tunics gave way to gray flannel suits with single-breasted jackets.
男生校服的演变更为频繁。20 世纪 60 年代初，军装式外套被灰色法兰绒单排扣西装取代。
A decade later, these were replaced by dark-blue ensembles: Flared trousers and short jackets with shoulder straps and decorative stitching that echoed the popular denim look. On the sleeve appeared a patch with an open book and rising sun, symbolizing the motto ‘learning is light’. By the 1980s, older boys were dressed in sober blue suits, while the red pioneer scarf remained an essential element of school identity.
十年后，深蓝色套装取而代之：喇叭裤与带肩章和装饰缝线的短夹克，呼应了当时流行的牛仔风格。袖子上缝有象征"知识就是光明"格言的徽章图案——一本摊开的书与初升的太阳。到了 1980 年代，高年级男生开始穿着沉稳的蓝色西装，而红领巾始终是学生身份的核心标志。
Through each of these transformations, the uniform remained both practical clothing and a tool of education. It embodied discipline, reinforced collective identity, and reflected the optimism of its time – from the space-age dreams of the 1960s to the proud spectacle of the Moscow Olympics in 1980.
历经每一次变革，校服始终兼具实用服饰与教育工具的双重功能。它象征着纪律，强化集体认同，并折射出时代的乐观精神——从 1960 年代的太空梦想到 1980 年莫斯科奥运会的辉煌盛况。
Abandonment and return
弃置与回归
The collapse of the Soviet unx brought with it the collapse of the school uniform. By 1991, the factories that produced standardized clothing were shutting down, and by 1994 the legal requirement for uniforms had been formally abolished. For the first time in generations, Russian children were free to dress as they pleased.
苏联解体带来了校服的消亡。到 1991 年，生产标准化服装的工厂陆续关闭；1994 年，校服的法律规定正式废除。这是俄罗斯数代学童首次获得自由着装的权利。
The 1990s became an era of sartorial chaos in the classroom. Students arrived in jeans, bright sweaters, and T-shirts, often mirroring the subcultures of the time. For some, this freedom was exhilarating; for teachers, it was a challenge. Clothing became another way to signal social status, and disputes over what was appropriate became part of school life. A few institutions experimented with looser ‘business style’ dress codes, but the results were uneven and often unpopular.
1990 年代成为校园着装的混乱时期。学生们穿着牛仔裤、鲜艳毛衣和 T 恤来上学，往往映射着当时的亚文化潮流。对某些人而言，这种自由令人振奋；对教师来说却成了挑战。服装成为彰显社会地位的另一种方式，关于得体着装的争论成为校园生活的一部分。少数学校尝试推行宽松的"商务风格"着装规范，但效果参差不齐且多不受欢迎。
By the early 2010s, however, the pendulum began to swing back. In 2013, a new federal law on education gave schools the right to require uniforms, though the style and color were left to the discretion of each institution.
然而到 2010 年代初，钟摆开始回摆。2013 年新版《联邦教育法》赋予学校要求统一着装的权利，不过款式与颜色可由各校自行决定。
Gradually, more schools reintroduced formal dress codes, seeing them as a way to restore order, foster equality, and revive tradition. For today’s students, especially in the younger grades, jackets, skirts, and dark trousers are once again the norm, signaling not only the return of discipline to the classroom but also a cultural continuity with Russia’s past.
渐渐地，更多学校重新引入正式着装规范，将其视为恢复秩序、促进平等和复兴传统的方式。对当今学生而言，尤其是低年级学童，夹克衫、短裙与深色长裤再度成为标配，这不仅标志着课堂纪律的回归，更象征着与俄罗斯历史的文化传承。
Contemporary debates and the 2025 standard
当代争议与 2025 年新标准
In recent years, discussion about school uniforms in Russia has returned with new intensity. In the summer of 2025, public debate was stirred by reports that a single Soviet-style uniform would once again become mandatory.
近年来，俄罗斯关于校服的讨论以全新热度回归公众视野。2025 年夏季，有关苏联式统一校服将再度强制推行的报道引发了社会热议。
In reality, the change was far less dramatic. What appeared on the horizon was not a return to the identical brown dresses and blue suits of the past, but the introduction of a new national standard.
实际上，这场变革远没有想象中剧烈。地平线上出现的并非昔日那种千篇一律的棕色连衣裙与蓝色制服的重现，而是一项全新国家标准的诞生。
On September 3, 2025, a new state standard – ‘GOST’ – for school uniforms will come into effect. Developed by Roskachestvo and the Innovation Center for Textile and Light Industry under the Ministry of Trade, it sets out requirements not for style or color, but for quality and safety. Jackets, shirts, skirts, trousers, pinafores, and other items must meet standards for durability, breathability, resistance to wear, and ease of care.
2025 年 9 月 3 日，俄罗斯将正式实施名为"GOST"的校服新国标。这套由俄罗斯质量体系与工贸部下属纺织轻工业创新中心联合制定的标准，其核心诉求不在于款式或色彩，而是聚焦品质与安全指标。无论是外套、衬衫、裙装、长裤还是背带裙等单品，都必须符合耐穿性、透气性、抗磨损度及易打理性等严格要求。
As officials explained, the goal is to protect parents and children from poorly made garments and to encourage manufacturers to produce clothing that can withstand daily use. The standard is voluntary, though producers may choose to certify their products against it.
官方解释称，此举旨在让家长和孩子远离劣质服装，同时激励生产商制造经得起日常穿着的产品。虽然该标准属于自愿认证范畴，但厂家可选择为产品申请此项认证。
Experts describe the measure as a kind of “retro-innovation.” Ivan Ivanov of the Higher School of Economics called it “a return of an old but not outdated tool of education,” while industry officials emphasize that lasting, washable, and comfortable clothing is as much a necessity as it is a tradition. Support for the idea of uniforms remains high: Surveys in 2018 showed that more than 80% of Russians favored their return, compared with two-thirds just five years earlier.
专家将这一举措称为"复古式创新"。高等经济学院的伊万·伊万诺夫称之为"回归古老但不过时的教育工具"，而行业官员则强调，耐用、可水洗且舒适的校服既是传统也是必需品。对校服理念的支持率居高不下：2018 年调查显示，超过 80%的俄罗斯人赞成恢复校服，而五年前这一比例仅为三分之二。
For many educators, the question is not whether uniforms are needed, but how flexible they should be. Some, like St. Petersburg school director Konstantin Tkhostov, argue that GOST should be mandatory to guarantee quality and affordability across the country.
对许多教育工作者而言，问题不在于是否需要校服，而在于其灵活性应如何把握。圣彼得堡学校校长康斯坦丁·特霍斯托夫等人主张，必须强制执行 GOST 标准以保证全国范围内的质量与价格可承受性。
Others, including Education Ombudsman Amet Volodarsky, stress that schools must retain the freedom to choose models suited to local needs while ensuring that uniforms prevent brand competition and social division among children.
包括教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基在内的其他人士则强调，学校在确保校服能防止儿童间的品牌攀比和社会分化前提下，必须保留选择适合当地需求款式的自主权。
What unites all sides of the debate is the recognition that school uniforms in today’s Russia are not a relic. They remain a living part of educational culture – a way to discipline, to equalize, and to give children a sense of belonging.
这场辩论各方达成的共识是：当今俄罗斯的校服并非历史遗存。它们仍是教育文化中鲜活的组成部分——既是一种纪律约束与平等化的手段，也能赋予孩子们归属感。
Expert views
专家观点
Supporters of the school uniform point out that its value lies not only in tradition but in its impact on children’s psychology, social life, and even their future careers.
校服支持者指出，其价值不仅在于传统，更在于对儿童心理、社交生活乃至未来职业发展的影响。
Child psychologist and neuropsychologist Natalya Naumova explains that uniforms help children focus on learning rather than appearance.
儿童心理学家兼神经心理学家娜塔莉娅·瑙莫娃解释道，校服能帮助孩子们将注意力集中在学习而非外表上。
“Uniforms bring students together by making them look alike regardless of their background.
"校服通过统一着装消除背景差异，让学生们凝聚成整体。
“Children are less distracted by who dresses better or worse, and instead can build friendships without social markers.
“孩子们不再因谁穿得更好或更差而分心，反而能在没有社会标签的情况下建立友谊。”
“For teachers, it sets clear expectations and helps create a more serious attitude toward study.”
"对教师而言，校服确立了明确的行为准则，有助于培养更严谨的学习态度。"
Stylist and parent Lyudmila Bryantseva highlights the role of uniforms in shaping taste and professionalism from an early age.
造型师兼家长柳德米拉·布良采娃强调，校服在从小培养审美品味与职业素养方面具有重要作用。
“A dress code organizes and disciplines, but it also teaches neatness and a sense of appropriateness in clothing.
"着装规范不仅能规范行为、培养纪律性，还能教会孩子们保持整洁并建立得体的穿衣观念。"
“There is even a term in styling – the smart look. It means a person dressed in a restrained, businesslike way already appears intellectual, already strives to live up to that image. A uniform not only unites a class but gives children a sense of collective identity and tradition.”
"时尚界甚至有个术语叫'睿智造型'——当一个人穿着简约干练时，自然就显露出知性气质，并会努力契合这种形象。校服不仅能让班级更有凝聚力，还能赋予孩子们集体认同感和传统意识。"
Fashion designer Aleksey Sukharev emphasizes the lix between school uniforms and preparation for adult life.
时装设计师阿列克谢·苏哈列夫强调校服与适应成人生活的关联性。
“It instills taste from childhood and teaches children that there is a place for certain clothes – some things belong in school, others outside of it. Later, it makes the transition to an adult wardrobe much easier.”
"它从童年开始培养审美品位，教会孩子们特定场合需要特定着装——有些服装属于校园，有些则适合校外。这种意识能让他们日后更轻松地过渡到成人衣橱。"
For Amet Volodarsky, the national education ombudsman, uniforms are essential not just for discipline but for social equality.
在全国教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基看来，校服不仅对纪律养成至关重要，更是促进社会公平的重要载体。
“A uniform gives children a sense of belonging and discipline, which is crucial today. At the same time, I believe schools should be free to choose their own designs.
“校服能赋予孩子们归属感和纪律性，这在当今尤为重要。同时，我认为学校应有权自主选择校服款式。”
“I have seen how brand competition in clothing divides classes and even leads to bullying. A school uniform helps reduce that pressure.”
“我曾目睹服装品牌竞争如何分化班级，甚至引发霸凌。校服有助于缓解这种压力。”
Together, these voices underscore why uniforms remain so central in Russian schools. They discipline and unify, they teach taste and appropriateness, and they shield children from the social divides that free dress can bring.
这些声音共同揭示了校服在俄罗斯学校经久不衰的原因：它们规范行为、凝聚集体，培养审美与得体意识，并保护孩子免受自由着装可能带来的社会分化。
A living tradition
生生不息的传统
Just days before the start of the school year, Moscow’s GUM department store opened an exhibition titled ‘The History of School Uniform, 1900-2025’. Organized by the Bosco di Ciliegi group together with the Ministry of Education, the show guides visitors through more than a century of uniforms: From the ornate dresses and tunics of imperial gymnasiums, to the iconic Soviet brown aprons and blue jackets, to the modern variations worn today.
开学前几天，莫斯科古姆百货商店举办了名为"1900-2025 年校服历史"的展览。这场由博斯可迪西里耶吉集团与教育部联合策划的展览，带领参观者穿越一个多世纪的校服演变：从帝国时期文理中学华丽的连衣裙与束腰外衣，到标志性的苏联棕色围裙与蓝色夹克，直至当今的现代改良款式。
Archival photographs, school accessories, and multimedia displays allow visitors to see how the uniform has changed with the country – and how every button carries its own story.
通过档案照片、学校配饰及多媒体展示，参观者能直观感受校服如何随国家变迁而演变——每颗纽扣都承载着独特的故事。
At the opening, Education Minister Sergey Kravtsov noted that schools remain free to set their own styles, but that uniforms play an essential role:
在开幕式上，教育部长谢尔盖·克拉夫佐夫指出，各校仍可自由制定自己的款式，但校服发挥着至关重要的作用：
“A school uniform carries an important educational function. It disciplines. And in many schools there are good traditions associated with the school uniform.”
"校服承载着重要的教育功能。它能培养纪律性。许多学校都有与校服相关的优良传统。"
The school uniform, in other words, is not just a piece of clothing. It is a time machine, carrying the memory of generations – from the pupils of Nicholas I’s gymnasiums, through Soviet classrooms filled with paper airplanes and pioneer scarves, to today’s students preparing for a future shaped by innovation. Across these eras, its meaning has remained constant: Discipline, equality, and a sense of belonging.
换言之，校服不仅是一件衣服。它是时光机，承载着几代人的记忆——从尼古拉一世时期文理中学的学生，到纸飞机与红领巾飘扬的苏联教室，再到为创新塑造的未来做准备的当今学子。跨越这些时代，其意义始终如一：纪律、平等与归属感。
ByGeorgiy Berezovsky, Vladikavkaz-based journalist
作者：格奥尔基·别列佐夫斯基（弗拉季高加索记者）
From czars to zoomers Russia’s school uniform never died
从沙皇到 Z 世代：俄罗斯校服从未消亡
From imperial tunics to Soviet aprons to today’s national standards, the uniform has shaped how Russians see equality, order, and tradition in the classroom
从帝俄时期的制服到苏联的围裙装，再到如今的国家标准，校服塑造了俄罗斯人对课堂中平等、秩序与传统的认知
In Russia, September 1 is more than just the start of a new school year. Known as the Day of Knowledge, it is a national ritual celebrated in every town and city.
在俄罗斯，9 月 1 日不仅是新学年的开始。作为"知识节"，这个全国性仪式在每座城镇都举行庆祝活动
On this morning, schoolyards turn into small festivals: Girls in crisp blouses with white ribbons in their hair, boys in freshly pressed suits, the air filled with the scent of asters and chrysanthemums brought as gifts for teachers. Parents gather with cameras, loudspeakers crackle with speeches, and the ringing of the first bell marks the beginning of the academic year.
这个清晨，校园变成了小型庆典现场：女孩们穿着笔挺的衬衫，发间系着白丝带；男孩们身着熨烫一新的西装；空气中飘荡着作为教师节礼物的紫菀与菊花的芬芳。家长们举着相机聚集在一起，扩音器里传来演讲的杂音，随着第一声上课铃响起，新学年正式拉开帷幕。
At the center of this ritual is the school uniform.
这场仪式的核心正是校服。
Generations of Russians recall its look and feel – from the brown dresses and white aprons of Soviet schoolgirls to the blue jackets of boys with the emblem of an open book stitched on the sleeve. For Russians, the uniform is more than a dress code. It is part of a cultural tradition that conveys discipline, equality, and belonging. And its history, stretching back nearly two centuries, mirrors the broader story of Russian society itself.
一代代俄罗斯人仍记得校服的样貌与触感——从苏联女生穿的棕色连衣裙配白色围裙，到男生衣袖上绣着打开书本徽章的蓝色夹克。对俄罗斯人而言，校服不仅是着装规范，更是传递纪律、平等与归属感的文化传统组成部分。其历史可追溯至近两百年前，映照着俄罗斯社会更宏大的变迁故事。
Origins of the school uniform
校服的起源
The story of the school uniform begins not in Russia but in Britain. In the 16th century, Christ’s Hospital, a charitable school for orphans and children from poor families, introduced a distinctive Tudor-style outfit: Long blue coats, pleated skirts for girls, and breeches for boys. In England, uniform was associated with poverty and charity – clothing meant to signal modest means.
校服的故事并非始于俄罗斯，而是源于英国。16 世纪时，为孤儿和贫寒家庭子女设立的慈善学校基督公学首次引入都铎风格特色制服：男生身着蓝色长外套与马裤，女生则穿百褶裙。在英格兰，校服曾与贫困和慈善相关联——这种服饰意在表明穿着者的清寒身份。
When the idea crossed into Russia, it was transformed. In 1834, Tsar Nicholas I, a monarch with a passion for order and discipline, approved the ‘Regulations on Civil Uniforms’. From that moment, not only state officials but also students at gymnasiums and lyceums were required to wear prescribed dress.
当这一理念传入俄罗斯后，发生了本质转变。1834 年，崇尚秩序与纪律的沙皇尼古拉一世批准《文官制服条例》。自此不仅政府官员，中学和贵族学校的学生也必须穿着规定服装。
Boys appeared in dark-green tunics with blue collars, gold or silver trim, and matching caps; girls, as female education expanded, wore modest long brown dresses with aprons – black for everyday use, white for festive occasions.
男生制服为带蓝色立领的墨绿色束腰外衣，配以金银镶边与同色制帽；随着女子教育发展，女生需穿着朴素的棕色长裙配围裙——平日用黑色围裙，节庆场合则换白色。
The Russian school uniform was modeled on military attire and carried a different symbolism than in Britain. Rather than signaling poverty, it marked status. Only families who were wealthy enough could send their children to gymnasiums, and the uniform became a visible badge of belonging to the educated class.
俄罗斯的校服仿照军装设计，其象征意义与英国截然不同。它并非贫困的标志，而是身份的象征。只有足够富裕的家庭才能送孩子上文理中学，校服成为受教育阶层显而易见的归属徽章。
By the late 19th century, green jackets gave way to dark blue, ornate standing collars alternated with simpler turn-down styles, and gymnasium boys were mockingly nicknamed ‘blue beef’ for their dark-blue coats. Girls’ uniforms, though less strictly regulated, also developed traditions: Younger pupils wore darker shades, older ones lighter, a hierarchy of colors preserved at elite institutions like the Smolny Institute.
到 19 世纪末，绿色外套被深蓝色取代，繁复的立领与简约的翻领交替出现，文理中学男生因其深蓝色外套被戏称为"蓝牛肉"。女生制服虽规定较宽松，也形成了传统：低年级穿深色，高年级穿浅色，这种色彩等级制度在斯莫尔尼学院等精英学府得以保留。
By the 1880s, the student cap with a leather visor and emblem made it possible to tell at a glance which school a boy attended. And although daily wear grew more practical – gymnasts’ tunics or simpler woolen coats – the principle remained unchanged: The uniform was a civic version of the military coat, a lesson in discipline, and a marker of social standing.
1880 年代，带有皮制帽檐和徽章的学生帽让人一眼就能辨认出男生所属的学校。尽管日常穿着变得更实用——体操服或简朴的羊毛外套——但原则始终未变：校服是军装的民用版本，是纪律教育的载体，也是社会地位的标识。
Revolution, rejection, and return
革命、废止与回归
The Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 swept away many of the symbols of imperial Russia, and the school uniform was among them. To the new authorities, gymnasium tunics and aprons represented both social inequality and the ‘unfreedom’ of the student – an outward sign of belonging to the privileged classes.
1917 年的布尔什维克革命扫除了帝俄时代的诸多象征，校服便是其中之一。在新政权眼中，文理中学的束腰外衣和围裙既象征着社会不平等，也代表着学生的"不自由"——这是属于特权阶层的外在标志。
There was also a more pragmatic reason: The impoverished state, and no less impoverished parents, simply had no resources to supply children with specially tailored clothing. In the 1920s and 1930s, students came to school in whatever they had, and uniform became a relic of the past.
这背后还存在更现实的原因：贫困的国家与同样拮据的家庭，根本无力为孩子们提供特制的服装。在 1920 至 1930 年代，学生们穿着日常便服上学，校服逐渐成为历史遗存。
The first steps toward reintroducing uniforms came not in general schools but in vocational and technical institutions.
恢复校服的第一步并非始于普通学校，而是职业技术院校。
From the 1940s, craft and railway schools adopted standard dress, complete with insignia on caps and badges on belts. In these cases, uniforms were issued at state expense, which not only reinforced discipline but also encouraged many to continue their education.
自 20 世纪 40 年代起，工艺学校和铁路学校开始采用统一制服，配有帽徽和腰带扣章。这些校服由国家出资配发，不仅强化了纪律性，还激励了许多人继续求学。
The decisive turn came after World War II. In 1948, the Soviet authorities formally restored the school uniform in general education, drawing on pre-revolutionary models. Boys wore gray tunics with belts and caps, marked with a distinctive ‘Ш’ – the Cyrillic letter ‘Sh’ for ‘shkola’ (school) – on both the cap badge and belt buckle. Girls appeared in brown dresses with removable white collars and cuffs, black aprons for everyday use, and white aprons for holidays.
决定性转变发生在二战后。1948 年，苏联当局正式在普通教育中恢复校服制度，借鉴了革命前的样式。男生穿着带腰带的灰色束腰外衣和帽子，帽徽与腰带扣上都饰有醒目的西里尔字母"Ш"（意为"学校"）。女生则身着棕色连衣裙，配有可拆卸的白色领口和袖口，日常系黑色围裙，节日则换白色围裙。
The symbolism was deliberate. In a country devastated by war and rebuilding from ruins, uniforms embodied the idea of equality, unity, and a hopeful future. Just as factories and housing blocks were standardized, so too was the appearance of the Soviet schoolchild – disciplined, neat, and part of a collective whole.
这种设计蕴含深意。在饱受战争摧残、正从废墟中重建的国家里，校服象征着平等、团结与充满希望的未来。正如工厂和住宅区都采用标准化建设，苏联学生的形象也被塑造成纪律严明、整洁有序的集体一员。
Soviet transformations
苏联时期的变革
By the mid-1950s, the gray tunics of postwar boys had already shown their flaws. Ink stains and constant wear made them impractical, and in 1954 the uniform shifted to dark blue. Senior students were gradually released from the obligation to wear full uniform, though badges, red pioneer scarves, and Komsomol pins remained visible symbols of youth organizations.
到了 1950 年代中期，战后男生的灰色制服已显露出种种弊端。墨水渍和频繁穿着使其变得不实用，于是在 1954 年制服改为深蓝色。高年级学生逐渐被免除全套制服的要求，不过徽章、红领巾和共青团徽章仍是青年组织的鲜明标志。
For girls, the brown dress with its black or white apron proved remarkably durable. Worn with removable collars and cuffs, paired with white socks or tights, and accompanied by neatly braided hair tied with ribbons, it became one of the most recognizable images of Soviet childhood.
对女孩们而言，这种搭配黑色或白色围裙的棕色连衣裙展现出惊人的持久力。可拆卸的领口与袖口、白色短袜或连裤袜，再配上用丝带扎起的整齐发辫，这套装束成为苏联童年最具辨识度的形象之一。
The strict rules forbade jewelry or makeup, and teachers vigilantly enforced these standards. Only in the 1980s did girls’ uniforms undergo significant change, with the introduction of blue three-piece suits – skirt, vest, and jacket – or jumpers for younger pupils. In colder regions, trousers were permitted for the first time.
严格的校规禁止佩戴首饰或化妆，教师们始终严格执行这些标准。直到 20 世纪 80 年代，女生校服才迎来重大变革，开始采用蓝色三件套——短裙、马甲和西装外套，低年级学生则改穿背心裙。在寒冷地区，女生首次被允许穿着长裤。
Boys’ wardrobes changed more frequently. In the early 1960s, the military-style tunics gave way to gray flannel suits with single-breasted jackets.
男生校服的演变更为频繁。20 世纪 60 年代初，军装式外套被灰色法兰绒单排扣西装取代。
A decade later, these were replaced by dark-blue ensembles: Flared trousers and short jackets with shoulder straps and decorative stitching that echoed the popular denim look. On the sleeve appeared a patch with an open book and rising sun, symbolizing the motto ‘learning is light’. By the 1980s, older boys were dressed in sober blue suits, while the red pioneer scarf remained an essential element of school identity.
十年后，深蓝色套装取而代之：喇叭裤与带肩章和装饰缝线的短夹克，呼应了当时流行的牛仔风格。袖子上缝有象征"知识就是光明"格言的徽章图案——一本摊开的书与初升的太阳。到了 1980 年代，高年级男生开始穿着沉稳的蓝色西装，而红领巾始终是学生身份的核心标志。
Through each of these transformations, the uniform remained both practical clothing and a tool of education. It embodied discipline, reinforced collective identity, and reflected the optimism of its time – from the space-age dreams of the 1960s to the proud spectacle of the Moscow Olympics in 1980.
历经每一次变革，校服始终兼具实用服饰与教育工具的双重功能。它象征着纪律，强化集体认同，并折射出时代的乐观精神——从 1960 年代的太空梦想到 1980 年莫斯科奥运会的辉煌盛况。
Abandonment and return
弃置与回归
The collapse of the Soviet unx brought with it the collapse of the school uniform. By 1991, the factories that produced standardized clothing were shutting down, and by 1994 the legal requirement for uniforms had been formally abolished. For the first time in generations, Russian children were free to dress as they pleased.
苏联解体带来了校服的消亡。到 1991 年，生产标准化服装的工厂陆续关闭；1994 年，校服的法律规定正式废除。这是俄罗斯数代学童首次获得自由着装的权利。
The 1990s became an era of sartorial chaos in the classroom. Students arrived in jeans, bright sweaters, and T-shirts, often mirroring the subcultures of the time. For some, this freedom was exhilarating; for teachers, it was a challenge. Clothing became another way to signal social status, and disputes over what was appropriate became part of school life. A few institutions experimented with looser ‘business style’ dress codes, but the results were uneven and often unpopular.
1990 年代成为校园着装的混乱时期。学生们穿着牛仔裤、鲜艳毛衣和 T 恤来上学，往往映射着当时的亚文化潮流。对某些人而言，这种自由令人振奋；对教师来说却成了挑战。服装成为彰显社会地位的另一种方式，关于得体着装的争论成为校园生活的一部分。少数学校尝试推行宽松的"商务风格"着装规范，但效果参差不齐且多不受欢迎。
By the early 2010s, however, the pendulum began to swing back. In 2013, a new federal law on education gave schools the right to require uniforms, though the style and color were left to the discretion of each institution.
然而到 2010 年代初，钟摆开始回摆。2013 年新版《联邦教育法》赋予学校要求统一着装的权利，不过款式与颜色可由各校自行决定。
Gradually, more schools reintroduced formal dress codes, seeing them as a way to restore order, foster equality, and revive tradition. For today’s students, especially in the younger grades, jackets, skirts, and dark trousers are once again the norm, signaling not only the return of discipline to the classroom but also a cultural continuity with Russia’s past.
渐渐地，更多学校重新引入正式着装规范，将其视为恢复秩序、促进平等和复兴传统的方式。对当今学生而言，尤其是低年级学童，夹克衫、短裙与深色长裤再度成为标配，这不仅标志着课堂纪律的回归，更象征着与俄罗斯历史的文化传承。
Contemporary debates and the 2025 standard
当代争议与 2025 年新标准
In recent years, discussion about school uniforms in Russia has returned with new intensity. In the summer of 2025, public debate was stirred by reports that a single Soviet-style uniform would once again become mandatory.
近年来，俄罗斯关于校服的讨论以全新热度回归公众视野。2025 年夏季，有关苏联式统一校服将再度强制推行的报道引发了社会热议。
In reality, the change was far less dramatic. What appeared on the horizon was not a return to the identical brown dresses and blue suits of the past, but the introduction of a new national standard.
实际上，这场变革远没有想象中剧烈。地平线上出现的并非昔日那种千篇一律的棕色连衣裙与蓝色制服的重现，而是一项全新国家标准的诞生。
On September 3, 2025, a new state standard – ‘GOST’ – for school uniforms will come into effect. Developed by Roskachestvo and the Innovation Center for Textile and Light Industry under the Ministry of Trade, it sets out requirements not for style or color, but for quality and safety. Jackets, shirts, skirts, trousers, pinafores, and other items must meet standards for durability, breathability, resistance to wear, and ease of care.
2025 年 9 月 3 日，俄罗斯将正式实施名为"GOST"的校服新国标。这套由俄罗斯质量体系与工贸部下属纺织轻工业创新中心联合制定的标准，其核心诉求不在于款式或色彩，而是聚焦品质与安全指标。无论是外套、衬衫、裙装、长裤还是背带裙等单品，都必须符合耐穿性、透气性、抗磨损度及易打理性等严格要求。
As officials explained, the goal is to protect parents and children from poorly made garments and to encourage manufacturers to produce clothing that can withstand daily use. The standard is voluntary, though producers may choose to certify their products against it.
官方解释称，此举旨在让家长和孩子远离劣质服装，同时激励生产商制造经得起日常穿着的产品。虽然该标准属于自愿认证范畴，但厂家可选择为产品申请此项认证。
Experts describe the measure as a kind of “retro-innovation.” Ivan Ivanov of the Higher School of Economics called it “a return of an old but not outdated tool of education,” while industry officials emphasize that lasting, washable, and comfortable clothing is as much a necessity as it is a tradition. Support for the idea of uniforms remains high: Surveys in 2018 showed that more than 80% of Russians favored their return, compared with two-thirds just five years earlier.
专家将这一举措称为"复古式创新"。高等经济学院的伊万·伊万诺夫称之为"回归古老但不过时的教育工具"，而行业官员则强调，耐用、可水洗且舒适的校服既是传统也是必需品。对校服理念的支持率居高不下：2018 年调查显示，超过 80%的俄罗斯人赞成恢复校服，而五年前这一比例仅为三分之二。
For many educators, the question is not whether uniforms are needed, but how flexible they should be. Some, like St. Petersburg school director Konstantin Tkhostov, argue that GOST should be mandatory to guarantee quality and affordability across the country.
对许多教育工作者而言，问题不在于是否需要校服，而在于其灵活性应如何把握。圣彼得堡学校校长康斯坦丁·特霍斯托夫等人主张，必须强制执行 GOST 标准以保证全国范围内的质量与价格可承受性。
Others, including Education Ombudsman Amet Volodarsky, stress that schools must retain the freedom to choose models suited to local needs while ensuring that uniforms prevent brand competition and social division among children.
包括教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基在内的其他人士则强调，学校在确保校服能防止儿童间的品牌攀比和社会分化前提下，必须保留选择适合当地需求款式的自主权。
What unites all sides of the debate is the recognition that school uniforms in today’s Russia are not a relic. They remain a living part of educational culture – a way to discipline, to equalize, and to give children a sense of belonging.
这场辩论各方达成的共识是：当今俄罗斯的校服并非历史遗存。它们仍是教育文化中鲜活的组成部分——既是一种纪律约束与平等化的手段，也能赋予孩子们归属感。
Expert views
专家观点
Supporters of the school uniform point out that its value lies not only in tradition but in its impact on children’s psychology, social life, and even their future careers.
校服支持者指出，其价值不仅在于传统，更在于对儿童心理、社交生活乃至未来职业发展的影响。
Child psychologist and neuropsychologist Natalya Naumova explains that uniforms help children focus on learning rather than appearance.
儿童心理学家兼神经心理学家娜塔莉娅·瑙莫娃解释道，校服能帮助孩子们将注意力集中在学习而非外表上。
“Uniforms bring students together by making them look alike regardless of their background.
"校服通过统一着装消除背景差异，让学生们凝聚成整体。
“Children are less distracted by who dresses better or worse, and instead can build friendships without social markers.
“孩子们不再因谁穿得更好或更差而分心，反而能在没有社会标签的情况下建立友谊。”
“For teachers, it sets clear expectations and helps create a more serious attitude toward study.”
"对教师而言，校服确立了明确的行为准则，有助于培养更严谨的学习态度。"
Stylist and parent Lyudmila Bryantseva highlights the role of uniforms in shaping taste and professionalism from an early age.
造型师兼家长柳德米拉·布良采娃强调，校服在从小培养审美品味与职业素养方面具有重要作用。
“A dress code organizes and disciplines, but it also teaches neatness and a sense of appropriateness in clothing.
"着装规范不仅能规范行为、培养纪律性，还能教会孩子们保持整洁并建立得体的穿衣观念。"
“There is even a term in styling – the smart look. It means a person dressed in a restrained, businesslike way already appears intellectual, already strives to live up to that image. A uniform not only unites a class but gives children a sense of collective identity and tradition.”
"时尚界甚至有个术语叫'睿智造型'——当一个人穿着简约干练时，自然就显露出知性气质，并会努力契合这种形象。校服不仅能让班级更有凝聚力，还能赋予孩子们集体认同感和传统意识。"
Fashion designer Aleksey Sukharev emphasizes the lix between school uniforms and preparation for adult life.
时装设计师阿列克谢·苏哈列夫强调校服与适应成人生活的关联性。
“It instills taste from childhood and teaches children that there is a place for certain clothes – some things belong in school, others outside of it. Later, it makes the transition to an adult wardrobe much easier.”
"它从童年开始培养审美品位，教会孩子们特定场合需要特定着装——有些服装属于校园，有些则适合校外。这种意识能让他们日后更轻松地过渡到成人衣橱。"
For Amet Volodarsky, the national education ombudsman, uniforms are essential not just for discipline but for social equality.
在全国教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基看来，校服不仅对纪律养成至关重要，更是促进社会公平的重要载体。
“A uniform gives children a sense of belonging and discipline, which is crucial today. At the same time, I believe schools should be free to choose their own designs.
“校服能赋予孩子们归属感和纪律性，这在当今尤为重要。同时，我认为学校应有权自主选择校服款式。”
“I have seen how brand competition in clothing divides classes and even leads to bullying. A school uniform helps reduce that pressure.”
“我曾目睹服装品牌竞争如何分化班级，甚至引发霸凌。校服有助于缓解这种压力。”
Together, these voices underscore why uniforms remain so central in Russian schools. They discipline and unify, they teach taste and appropriateness, and they shield children from the social divides that free dress can bring.
这些声音共同揭示了校服在俄罗斯学校经久不衰的原因：它们规范行为、凝聚集体，培养审美与得体意识，并保护孩子免受自由着装可能带来的社会分化。
A living tradition
生生不息的传统
Just days before the start of the school year, Moscow’s GUM department store opened an exhibition titled ‘The History of School Uniform, 1900-2025’. Organized by the Bosco di Ciliegi group together with the Ministry of Education, the show guides visitors through more than a century of uniforms: From the ornate dresses and tunics of imperial gymnasiums, to the iconic Soviet brown aprons and blue jackets, to the modern variations worn today.
开学前几天，莫斯科古姆百货商店举办了名为"1900-2025 年校服历史"的展览。这场由博斯可迪西里耶吉集团与教育部联合策划的展览，带领参观者穿越一个多世纪的校服演变：从帝国时期文理中学华丽的连衣裙与束腰外衣，到标志性的苏联棕色围裙与蓝色夹克，直至当今的现代改良款式。
Archival photographs, school accessories, and multimedia displays allow visitors to see how the uniform has changed with the country – and how every button carries its own story.
通过档案照片、学校配饰及多媒体展示，参观者能直观感受校服如何随国家变迁而演变——每颗纽扣都承载着独特的故事。
At the opening, Education Minister Sergey Kravtsov noted that schools remain free to set their own styles, but that uniforms play an essential role:
在开幕式上，教育部长谢尔盖·克拉夫佐夫指出，各校仍可自由制定自己的款式，但校服发挥着至关重要的作用：
“A school uniform carries an important educational function. It disciplines. And in many schools there are good traditions associated with the school uniform.”
"校服承载着重要的教育功能。它能培养纪律性。许多学校都有与校服相关的优良传统。"
The school uniform, in other words, is not just a piece of clothing. It is a time machine, carrying the memory of generations – from the pupils of Nicholas I’s gymnasiums, through Soviet classrooms filled with paper airplanes and pioneer scarves, to today’s students preparing for a future shaped by innovation. Across these eras, its meaning has remained constant: Discipline, equality, and a sense of belonging.
换言之，校服不仅是一件衣服。它是时光机，承载着几代人的记忆——从尼古拉一世时期文理中学的学生，到纸飞机与红领巾飘扬的苏联教室，再到为创新塑造的未来做准备的当今学子。跨越这些时代，其意义始终如一：纪律、平等与归属感。
ByGeorgiy Berezovsky, Vladikavkaz-based journalist
作者：格奥尔基·别列佐夫斯基（弗拉季高加索记者）
评论翻译
From czars to zoomers Russia’s school uniform never died
从沙皇到 Z 世代：俄罗斯校服从未消亡
From imperial tunics to Soviet aprons to today’s national standards, the uniform has shaped how Russians see equality, order, and tradition in the classroom
从帝俄时期的制服到苏联的围裙装，再到如今的国家标准，校服塑造了俄罗斯人对课堂中平等、秩序与传统的认知
In Russia, September 1 is more than just the start of a new school year. Known as the Day of Knowledge, it is a national ritual celebrated in every town and city.
在俄罗斯，9 月 1 日不仅是新学年的开始。作为"知识节"，这个全国性仪式在每座城镇都举行庆祝活动
On this morning, schoolyards turn into small festivals: Girls in crisp blouses with white ribbons in their hair, boys in freshly pressed suits, the air filled with the scent of asters and chrysanthemums brought as gifts for teachers. Parents gather with cameras, loudspeakers crackle with speeches, and the ringing of the first bell marks the beginning of the academic year.
这个清晨，校园变成了小型庆典现场：女孩们穿着笔挺的衬衫，发间系着白丝带；男孩们身着熨烫一新的西装；空气中飘荡着作为教师节礼物的紫菀与菊花的芬芳。家长们举着相机聚集在一起，扩音器里传来演讲的杂音，随着第一声上课铃响起，新学年正式拉开帷幕。
At the center of this ritual is the school uniform.
这场仪式的核心正是校服。
Generations of Russians recall its look and feel – from the brown dresses and white aprons of Soviet schoolgirls to the blue jackets of boys with the emblem of an open book stitched on the sleeve. For Russians, the uniform is more than a dress code. It is part of a cultural tradition that conveys discipline, equality, and belonging. And its history, stretching back nearly two centuries, mirrors the broader story of Russian society itself.
一代代俄罗斯人仍记得校服的样貌与触感——从苏联女生穿的棕色连衣裙配白色围裙，到男生衣袖上绣着打开书本徽章的蓝色夹克。对俄罗斯人而言，校服不仅是着装规范，更是传递纪律、平等与归属感的文化传统组成部分。其历史可追溯至近两百年前，映照着俄罗斯社会更宏大的变迁故事。
Origins of the school uniform
校服的起源
The story of the school uniform begins not in Russia but in Britain. In the 16th century, Christ’s Hospital, a charitable school for orphans and children from poor families, introduced a distinctive Tudor-style outfit: Long blue coats, pleated skirts for girls, and breeches for boys. In England, uniform was associated with poverty and charity – clothing meant to signal modest means.
校服的故事并非始于俄罗斯，而是源于英国。16 世纪时，为孤儿和贫寒家庭子女设立的慈善学校基督公学首次引入都铎风格特色制服：男生身着蓝色长外套与马裤，女生则穿百褶裙。在英格兰，校服曾与贫困和慈善相关联——这种服饰意在表明穿着者的清寒身份。
When the idea crossed into Russia, it was transformed. In 1834, Tsar Nicholas I, a monarch with a passion for order and discipline, approved the ‘Regulations on Civil Uniforms’. From that moment, not only state officials but also students at gymnasiums and lyceums were required to wear prescribed dress.
当这一理念传入俄罗斯后，发生了本质转变。1834 年，崇尚秩序与纪律的沙皇尼古拉一世批准《文官制服条例》。自此不仅政府官员，中学和贵族学校的学生也必须穿着规定服装。
Boys appeared in dark-green tunics with blue collars, gold or silver trim, and matching caps; girls, as female education expanded, wore modest long brown dresses with aprons – black for everyday use, white for festive occasions.
男生制服为带蓝色立领的墨绿色束腰外衣，配以金银镶边与同色制帽；随着女子教育发展，女生需穿着朴素的棕色长裙配围裙——平日用黑色围裙，节庆场合则换白色。
The Russian school uniform was modeled on military attire and carried a different symbolism than in Britain. Rather than signaling poverty, it marked status. Only families who were wealthy enough could send their children to gymnasiums, and the uniform became a visible badge of belonging to the educated class.
俄罗斯的校服仿照军装设计，其象征意义与英国截然不同。它并非贫困的标志，而是身份的象征。只有足够富裕的家庭才能送孩子上文理中学，校服成为受教育阶层显而易见的归属徽章。
By the late 19th century, green jackets gave way to dark blue, ornate standing collars alternated with simpler turn-down styles, and gymnasium boys were mockingly nicknamed ‘blue beef’ for their dark-blue coats. Girls’ uniforms, though less strictly regulated, also developed traditions: Younger pupils wore darker shades, older ones lighter, a hierarchy of colors preserved at elite institutions like the Smolny Institute.
到 19 世纪末，绿色外套被深蓝色取代，繁复的立领与简约的翻领交替出现，文理中学男生因其深蓝色外套被戏称为"蓝牛肉"。女生制服虽规定较宽松，也形成了传统：低年级穿深色，高年级穿浅色，这种色彩等级制度在斯莫尔尼学院等精英学府得以保留。
By the 1880s, the student cap with a leather visor and emblem made it possible to tell at a glance which school a boy attended. And although daily wear grew more practical – gymnasts’ tunics or simpler woolen coats – the principle remained unchanged: The uniform was a civic version of the military coat, a lesson in discipline, and a marker of social standing.
1880 年代，带有皮制帽檐和徽章的学生帽让人一眼就能辨认出男生所属的学校。尽管日常穿着变得更实用——体操服或简朴的羊毛外套——但原则始终未变：校服是军装的民用版本，是纪律教育的载体，也是社会地位的标识。
Revolution, rejection, and return
革命、废止与回归
The Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 swept away many of the symbols of imperial Russia, and the school uniform was among them. To the new authorities, gymnasium tunics and aprons represented both social inequality and the ‘unfreedom’ of the student – an outward sign of belonging to the privileged classes.
1917 年的布尔什维克革命扫除了帝俄时代的诸多象征，校服便是其中之一。在新政权眼中，文理中学的束腰外衣和围裙既象征着社会不平等，也代表着学生的"不自由"——这是属于特权阶层的外在标志。
There was also a more pragmatic reason: The impoverished state, and no less impoverished parents, simply had no resources to supply children with specially tailored clothing. In the 1920s and 1930s, students came to school in whatever they had, and uniform became a relic of the past.
这背后还存在更现实的原因：贫困的国家与同样拮据的家庭，根本无力为孩子们提供特制的服装。在 1920 至 1930 年代，学生们穿着日常便服上学，校服逐渐成为历史遗存。
The first steps toward reintroducing uniforms came not in general schools but in vocational and technical institutions.
恢复校服的第一步并非始于普通学校，而是职业技术院校。
From the 1940s, craft and railway schools adopted standard dress, complete with insignia on caps and badges on belts. In these cases, uniforms were issued at state expense, which not only reinforced discipline but also encouraged many to continue their education.
自 20 世纪 40 年代起，工艺学校和铁路学校开始采用统一制服，配有帽徽和腰带扣章。这些校服由国家出资配发，不仅强化了纪律性，还激励了许多人继续求学。
The decisive turn came after World War II. In 1948, the Soviet authorities formally restored the school uniform in general education, drawing on pre-revolutionary models. Boys wore gray tunics with belts and caps, marked with a distinctive ‘Ш’ – the Cyrillic letter ‘Sh’ for ‘shkola’ (school) – on both the cap badge and belt buckle. Girls appeared in brown dresses with removable white collars and cuffs, black aprons for everyday use, and white aprons for holidays.
决定性转变发生在二战后。1948 年，苏联当局正式在普通教育中恢复校服制度，借鉴了革命前的样式。男生穿着带腰带的灰色束腰外衣和帽子，帽徽与腰带扣上都饰有醒目的西里尔字母"Ш"（意为"学校"）。女生则身着棕色连衣裙，配有可拆卸的白色领口和袖口，日常系黑色围裙，节日则换白色围裙。
The symbolism was deliberate. In a country devastated by war and rebuilding from ruins, uniforms embodied the idea of equality, unity, and a hopeful future. Just as factories and housing blocks were standardized, so too was the appearance of the Soviet schoolchild – disciplined, neat, and part of a collective whole.
这种设计蕴含深意。在饱受战争摧残、正从废墟中重建的国家里，校服象征着平等、团结与充满希望的未来。正如工厂和住宅区都采用标准化建设，苏联学生的形象也被塑造成纪律严明、整洁有序的集体一员。
Soviet transformations
苏联时期的变革
By the mid-1950s, the gray tunics of postwar boys had already shown their flaws. Ink stains and constant wear made them impractical, and in 1954 the uniform shifted to dark blue. Senior students were gradually released from the obligation to wear full uniform, though badges, red pioneer scarves, and Komsomol pins remained visible symbols of youth organizations.
到了 1950 年代中期，战后男生的灰色制服已显露出种种弊端。墨水渍和频繁穿着使其变得不实用，于是在 1954 年制服改为深蓝色。高年级学生逐渐被免除全套制服的要求，不过徽章、红领巾和共青团徽章仍是青年组织的鲜明标志。
For girls, the brown dress with its black or white apron proved remarkably durable. Worn with removable collars and cuffs, paired with white socks or tights, and accompanied by neatly braided hair tied with ribbons, it became one of the most recognizable images of Soviet childhood.
对女孩们而言，这种搭配黑色或白色围裙的棕色连衣裙展现出惊人的持久力。可拆卸的领口与袖口、白色短袜或连裤袜，再配上用丝带扎起的整齐发辫，这套装束成为苏联童年最具辨识度的形象之一。
The strict rules forbade jewelry or makeup, and teachers vigilantly enforced these standards. Only in the 1980s did girls’ uniforms undergo significant change, with the introduction of blue three-piece suits – skirt, vest, and jacket – or jumpers for younger pupils. In colder regions, trousers were permitted for the first time.
严格的校规禁止佩戴首饰或化妆，教师们始终严格执行这些标准。直到 20 世纪 80 年代，女生校服才迎来重大变革，开始采用蓝色三件套——短裙、马甲和西装外套，低年级学生则改穿背心裙。在寒冷地区，女生首次被允许穿着长裤。
Boys’ wardrobes changed more frequently. In the early 1960s, the military-style tunics gave way to gray flannel suits with single-breasted jackets.
男生校服的演变更为频繁。20 世纪 60 年代初，军装式外套被灰色法兰绒单排扣西装取代。
A decade later, these were replaced by dark-blue ensembles: Flared trousers and short jackets with shoulder straps and decorative stitching that echoed the popular denim look. On the sleeve appeared a patch with an open book and rising sun, symbolizing the motto ‘learning is light’. By the 1980s, older boys were dressed in sober blue suits, while the red pioneer scarf remained an essential element of school identity.
十年后，深蓝色套装取而代之：喇叭裤与带肩章和装饰缝线的短夹克，呼应了当时流行的牛仔风格。袖子上缝有象征"知识就是光明"格言的徽章图案——一本摊开的书与初升的太阳。到了 1980 年代，高年级男生开始穿着沉稳的蓝色西装，而红领巾始终是学生身份的核心标志。
Through each of these transformations, the uniform remained both practical clothing and a tool of education. It embodied discipline, reinforced collective identity, and reflected the optimism of its time – from the space-age dreams of the 1960s to the proud spectacle of the Moscow Olympics in 1980.
历经每一次变革，校服始终兼具实用服饰与教育工具的双重功能。它象征着纪律，强化集体认同，并折射出时代的乐观精神——从 1960 年代的太空梦想到 1980 年莫斯科奥运会的辉煌盛况。
Abandonment and return
弃置与回归
The collapse of the Soviet unx brought with it the collapse of the school uniform. By 1991, the factories that produced standardized clothing were shutting down, and by 1994 the legal requirement for uniforms had been formally abolished. For the first time in generations, Russian children were free to dress as they pleased.
苏联解体带来了校服的消亡。到 1991 年，生产标准化服装的工厂陆续关闭；1994 年，校服的法律规定正式废除。这是俄罗斯数代学童首次获得自由着装的权利。
The 1990s became an era of sartorial chaos in the classroom. Students arrived in jeans, bright sweaters, and T-shirts, often mirroring the subcultures of the time. For some, this freedom was exhilarating; for teachers, it was a challenge. Clothing became another way to signal social status, and disputes over what was appropriate became part of school life. A few institutions experimented with looser ‘business style’ dress codes, but the results were uneven and often unpopular.
1990 年代成为校园着装的混乱时期。学生们穿着牛仔裤、鲜艳毛衣和 T 恤来上学，往往映射着当时的亚文化潮流。对某些人而言，这种自由令人振奋；对教师来说却成了挑战。服装成为彰显社会地位的另一种方式，关于得体着装的争论成为校园生活的一部分。少数学校尝试推行宽松的"商务风格"着装规范，但效果参差不齐且多不受欢迎。
By the early 2010s, however, the pendulum began to swing back. In 2013, a new federal law on education gave schools the right to require uniforms, though the style and color were left to the discretion of each institution.
然而到 2010 年代初，钟摆开始回摆。2013 年新版《联邦教育法》赋予学校要求统一着装的权利，不过款式与颜色可由各校自行决定。
Gradually, more schools reintroduced formal dress codes, seeing them as a way to restore order, foster equality, and revive tradition. For today’s students, especially in the younger grades, jackets, skirts, and dark trousers are once again the norm, signaling not only the return of discipline to the classroom but also a cultural continuity with Russia’s past.
渐渐地，更多学校重新引入正式着装规范，将其视为恢复秩序、促进平等和复兴传统的方式。对当今学生而言，尤其是低年级学童，夹克衫、短裙与深色长裤再度成为标配，这不仅标志着课堂纪律的回归，更象征着与俄罗斯历史的文化传承。
Contemporary debates and the 2025 standard
当代争议与 2025 年新标准
In recent years, discussion about school uniforms in Russia has returned with new intensity. In the summer of 2025, public debate was stirred by reports that a single Soviet-style uniform would once again become mandatory.
近年来，俄罗斯关于校服的讨论以全新热度回归公众视野。2025 年夏季，有关苏联式统一校服将再度强制推行的报道引发了社会热议。
In reality, the change was far less dramatic. What appeared on the horizon was not a return to the identical brown dresses and blue suits of the past, but the introduction of a new national standard.
实际上，这场变革远没有想象中剧烈。地平线上出现的并非昔日那种千篇一律的棕色连衣裙与蓝色制服的重现，而是一项全新国家标准的诞生。
On September 3, 2025, a new state standard – ‘GOST’ – for school uniforms will come into effect. Developed by Roskachestvo and the Innovation Center for Textile and Light Industry under the Ministry of Trade, it sets out requirements not for style or color, but for quality and safety. Jackets, shirts, skirts, trousers, pinafores, and other items must meet standards for durability, breathability, resistance to wear, and ease of care.
2025 年 9 月 3 日，俄罗斯将正式实施名为"GOST"的校服新国标。这套由俄罗斯质量体系与工贸部下属纺织轻工业创新中心联合制定的标准，其核心诉求不在于款式或色彩，而是聚焦品质与安全指标。无论是外套、衬衫、裙装、长裤还是背带裙等单品，都必须符合耐穿性、透气性、抗磨损度及易打理性等严格要求。
As officials explained, the goal is to protect parents and children from poorly made garments and to encourage manufacturers to produce clothing that can withstand daily use. The standard is voluntary, though producers may choose to certify their products against it.
官方解释称，此举旨在让家长和孩子远离劣质服装，同时激励生产商制造经得起日常穿着的产品。虽然该标准属于自愿认证范畴，但厂家可选择为产品申请此项认证。
Experts describe the measure as a kind of “retro-innovation.” Ivan Ivanov of the Higher School of Economics called it “a return of an old but not outdated tool of education,” while industry officials emphasize that lasting, washable, and comfortable clothing is as much a necessity as it is a tradition. Support for the idea of uniforms remains high: Surveys in 2018 showed that more than 80% of Russians favored their return, compared with two-thirds just five years earlier.
专家将这一举措称为"复古式创新"。高等经济学院的伊万·伊万诺夫称之为"回归古老但不过时的教育工具"，而行业官员则强调，耐用、可水洗且舒适的校服既是传统也是必需品。对校服理念的支持率居高不下：2018 年调查显示，超过 80%的俄罗斯人赞成恢复校服，而五年前这一比例仅为三分之二。
For many educators, the question is not whether uniforms are needed, but how flexible they should be. Some, like St. Petersburg school director Konstantin Tkhostov, argue that GOST should be mandatory to guarantee quality and affordability across the country.
对许多教育工作者而言，问题不在于是否需要校服，而在于其灵活性应如何把握。圣彼得堡学校校长康斯坦丁·特霍斯托夫等人主张，必须强制执行 GOST 标准以保证全国范围内的质量与价格可承受性。
Others, including Education Ombudsman Amet Volodarsky, stress that schools must retain the freedom to choose models suited to local needs while ensuring that uniforms prevent brand competition and social division among children.
包括教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基在内的其他人士则强调，学校在确保校服能防止儿童间的品牌攀比和社会分化前提下，必须保留选择适合当地需求款式的自主权。
What unites all sides of the debate is the recognition that school uniforms in today’s Russia are not a relic. They remain a living part of educational culture – a way to discipline, to equalize, and to give children a sense of belonging.
这场辩论各方达成的共识是：当今俄罗斯的校服并非历史遗存。它们仍是教育文化中鲜活的组成部分——既是一种纪律约束与平等化的手段，也能赋予孩子们归属感。
Expert views
专家观点
Supporters of the school uniform point out that its value lies not only in tradition but in its impact on children’s psychology, social life, and even their future careers.
校服支持者指出，其价值不仅在于传统，更在于对儿童心理、社交生活乃至未来职业发展的影响。
Child psychologist and neuropsychologist Natalya Naumova explains that uniforms help children focus on learning rather than appearance.
儿童心理学家兼神经心理学家娜塔莉娅·瑙莫娃解释道，校服能帮助孩子们将注意力集中在学习而非外表上。
“Uniforms bring students together by making them look alike regardless of their background.
"校服通过统一着装消除背景差异，让学生们凝聚成整体。
“Children are less distracted by who dresses better or worse, and instead can build friendships without social markers.
“孩子们不再因谁穿得更好或更差而分心，反而能在没有社会标签的情况下建立友谊。”
“For teachers, it sets clear expectations and helps create a more serious attitude toward study.”
"对教师而言，校服确立了明确的行为准则，有助于培养更严谨的学习态度。"
Stylist and parent Lyudmila Bryantseva highlights the role of uniforms in shaping taste and professionalism from an early age.
造型师兼家长柳德米拉·布良采娃强调，校服在从小培养审美品味与职业素养方面具有重要作用。
“A dress code organizes and disciplines, but it also teaches neatness and a sense of appropriateness in clothing.
"着装规范不仅能规范行为、培养纪律性，还能教会孩子们保持整洁并建立得体的穿衣观念。"
“There is even a term in styling – the smart look. It means a person dressed in a restrained, businesslike way already appears intellectual, already strives to live up to that image. A uniform not only unites a class but gives children a sense of collective identity and tradition.”
"时尚界甚至有个术语叫'睿智造型'——当一个人穿着简约干练时，自然就显露出知性气质，并会努力契合这种形象。校服不仅能让班级更有凝聚力，还能赋予孩子们集体认同感和传统意识。"
Fashion designer Aleksey Sukharev emphasizes the lix between school uniforms and preparation for adult life.
时装设计师阿列克谢·苏哈列夫强调校服与适应成人生活的关联性。
“It instills taste from childhood and teaches children that there is a place for certain clothes – some things belong in school, others outside of it. Later, it makes the transition to an adult wardrobe much easier.”
"它从童年开始培养审美品位，教会孩子们特定场合需要特定着装——有些服装属于校园，有些则适合校外。这种意识能让他们日后更轻松地过渡到成人衣橱。"
For Amet Volodarsky, the national education ombudsman, uniforms are essential not just for discipline but for social equality.
在全国教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基看来，校服不仅对纪律养成至关重要，更是促进社会公平的重要载体。
“A uniform gives children a sense of belonging and discipline, which is crucial today. At the same time, I believe schools should be free to choose their own designs.
“校服能赋予孩子们归属感和纪律性，这在当今尤为重要。同时，我认为学校应有权自主选择校服款式。”
“I have seen how brand competition in clothing divides classes and even leads to bullying. A school uniform helps reduce that pressure.”
“我曾目睹服装品牌竞争如何分化班级，甚至引发霸凌。校服有助于缓解这种压力。”
Together, these voices underscore why uniforms remain so central in Russian schools. They discipline and unify, they teach taste and appropriateness, and they shield children from the social divides that free dress can bring.
这些声音共同揭示了校服在俄罗斯学校经久不衰的原因：它们规范行为、凝聚集体，培养审美与得体意识，并保护孩子免受自由着装可能带来的社会分化。
A living tradition
生生不息的传统
Just days before the start of the school year, Moscow’s GUM department store opened an exhibition titled ‘The History of School Uniform, 1900-2025’. Organized by the Bosco di Ciliegi group together with the Ministry of Education, the show guides visitors through more than a century of uniforms: From the ornate dresses and tunics of imperial gymnasiums, to the iconic Soviet brown aprons and blue jackets, to the modern variations worn today.
开学前几天，莫斯科古姆百货商店举办了名为"1900-2025 年校服历史"的展览。这场由博斯可迪西里耶吉集团与教育部联合策划的展览，带领参观者穿越一个多世纪的校服演变：从帝国时期文理中学华丽的连衣裙与束腰外衣，到标志性的苏联棕色围裙与蓝色夹克，直至当今的现代改良款式。
Archival photographs, school accessories, and multimedia displays allow visitors to see how the uniform has changed with the country – and how every button carries its own story.
通过档案照片、学校配饰及多媒体展示，参观者能直观感受校服如何随国家变迁而演变——每颗纽扣都承载着独特的故事。
At the opening, Education Minister Sergey Kravtsov noted that schools remain free to set their own styles, but that uniforms play an essential role:
在开幕式上，教育部长谢尔盖·克拉夫佐夫指出，各校仍可自由制定自己的款式，但校服发挥着至关重要的作用：
“A school uniform carries an important educational function. It disciplines. And in many schools there are good traditions associated with the school uniform.”
"校服承载着重要的教育功能。它能培养纪律性。许多学校都有与校服相关的优良传统。"
The school uniform, in other words, is not just a piece of clothing. It is a time machine, carrying the memory of generations – from the pupils of Nicholas I’s gymnasiums, through Soviet classrooms filled with paper airplanes and pioneer scarves, to today’s students preparing for a future shaped by innovation. Across these eras, its meaning has remained constant: Discipline, equality, and a sense of belonging.
换言之，校服不仅是一件衣服。它是时光机，承载着几代人的记忆——从尼古拉一世时期文理中学的学生，到纸飞机与红领巾飘扬的苏联教室，再到为创新塑造的未来做准备的当今学子。跨越这些时代，其意义始终如一：纪律、平等与归属感。
ByGeorgiy Berezovsky, Vladikavkaz-based journalist
作者：格奥尔基·别列佐夫斯基（弗拉季高加索记者）
From czars to zoomers Russia’s school uniform never died
从沙皇到 Z 世代：俄罗斯校服从未消亡
From imperial tunics to Soviet aprons to today’s national standards, the uniform has shaped how Russians see equality, order, and tradition in the classroom
从帝俄时期的制服到苏联的围裙装，再到如今的国家标准，校服塑造了俄罗斯人对课堂中平等、秩序与传统的认知
In Russia, September 1 is more than just the start of a new school year. Known as the Day of Knowledge, it is a national ritual celebrated in every town and city.
在俄罗斯，9 月 1 日不仅是新学年的开始。作为"知识节"，这个全国性仪式在每座城镇都举行庆祝活动
On this morning, schoolyards turn into small festivals: Girls in crisp blouses with white ribbons in their hair, boys in freshly pressed suits, the air filled with the scent of asters and chrysanthemums brought as gifts for teachers. Parents gather with cameras, loudspeakers crackle with speeches, and the ringing of the first bell marks the beginning of the academic year.
这个清晨，校园变成了小型庆典现场：女孩们穿着笔挺的衬衫，发间系着白丝带；男孩们身着熨烫一新的西装；空气中飘荡着作为教师节礼物的紫菀与菊花的芬芳。家长们举着相机聚集在一起，扩音器里传来演讲的杂音，随着第一声上课铃响起，新学年正式拉开帷幕。
At the center of this ritual is the school uniform.
这场仪式的核心正是校服。
Generations of Russians recall its look and feel – from the brown dresses and white aprons of Soviet schoolgirls to the blue jackets of boys with the emblem of an open book stitched on the sleeve. For Russians, the uniform is more than a dress code. It is part of a cultural tradition that conveys discipline, equality, and belonging. And its history, stretching back nearly two centuries, mirrors the broader story of Russian society itself.
一代代俄罗斯人仍记得校服的样貌与触感——从苏联女生穿的棕色连衣裙配白色围裙，到男生衣袖上绣着打开书本徽章的蓝色夹克。对俄罗斯人而言，校服不仅是着装规范，更是传递纪律、平等与归属感的文化传统组成部分。其历史可追溯至近两百年前，映照着俄罗斯社会更宏大的变迁故事。
Origins of the school uniform
校服的起源
The story of the school uniform begins not in Russia but in Britain. In the 16th century, Christ’s Hospital, a charitable school for orphans and children from poor families, introduced a distinctive Tudor-style outfit: Long blue coats, pleated skirts for girls, and breeches for boys. In England, uniform was associated with poverty and charity – clothing meant to signal modest means.
校服的故事并非始于俄罗斯，而是源于英国。16 世纪时，为孤儿和贫寒家庭子女设立的慈善学校基督公学首次引入都铎风格特色制服：男生身着蓝色长外套与马裤，女生则穿百褶裙。在英格兰，校服曾与贫困和慈善相关联——这种服饰意在表明穿着者的清寒身份。
When the idea crossed into Russia, it was transformed. In 1834, Tsar Nicholas I, a monarch with a passion for order and discipline, approved the ‘Regulations on Civil Uniforms’. From that moment, not only state officials but also students at gymnasiums and lyceums were required to wear prescribed dress.
当这一理念传入俄罗斯后，发生了本质转变。1834 年，崇尚秩序与纪律的沙皇尼古拉一世批准《文官制服条例》。自此不仅政府官员，中学和贵族学校的学生也必须穿着规定服装。
Boys appeared in dark-green tunics with blue collars, gold or silver trim, and matching caps; girls, as female education expanded, wore modest long brown dresses with aprons – black for everyday use, white for festive occasions.
男生制服为带蓝色立领的墨绿色束腰外衣，配以金银镶边与同色制帽；随着女子教育发展，女生需穿着朴素的棕色长裙配围裙——平日用黑色围裙，节庆场合则换白色。
The Russian school uniform was modeled on military attire and carried a different symbolism than in Britain. Rather than signaling poverty, it marked status. Only families who were wealthy enough could send their children to gymnasiums, and the uniform became a visible badge of belonging to the educated class.
俄罗斯的校服仿照军装设计，其象征意义与英国截然不同。它并非贫困的标志，而是身份的象征。只有足够富裕的家庭才能送孩子上文理中学，校服成为受教育阶层显而易见的归属徽章。
By the late 19th century, green jackets gave way to dark blue, ornate standing collars alternated with simpler turn-down styles, and gymnasium boys were mockingly nicknamed ‘blue beef’ for their dark-blue coats. Girls’ uniforms, though less strictly regulated, also developed traditions: Younger pupils wore darker shades, older ones lighter, a hierarchy of colors preserved at elite institutions like the Smolny Institute.
到 19 世纪末，绿色外套被深蓝色取代，繁复的立领与简约的翻领交替出现，文理中学男生因其深蓝色外套被戏称为"蓝牛肉"。女生制服虽规定较宽松，也形成了传统：低年级穿深色，高年级穿浅色，这种色彩等级制度在斯莫尔尼学院等精英学府得以保留。
By the 1880s, the student cap with a leather visor and emblem made it possible to tell at a glance which school a boy attended. And although daily wear grew more practical – gymnasts’ tunics or simpler woolen coats – the principle remained unchanged: The uniform was a civic version of the military coat, a lesson in discipline, and a marker of social standing.
1880 年代，带有皮制帽檐和徽章的学生帽让人一眼就能辨认出男生所属的学校。尽管日常穿着变得更实用——体操服或简朴的羊毛外套——但原则始终未变：校服是军装的民用版本，是纪律教育的载体，也是社会地位的标识。
Revolution, rejection, and return
革命、废止与回归
The Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 swept away many of the symbols of imperial Russia, and the school uniform was among them. To the new authorities, gymnasium tunics and aprons represented both social inequality and the ‘unfreedom’ of the student – an outward sign of belonging to the privileged classes.
1917 年的布尔什维克革命扫除了帝俄时代的诸多象征，校服便是其中之一。在新政权眼中，文理中学的束腰外衣和围裙既象征着社会不平等，也代表着学生的"不自由"——这是属于特权阶层的外在标志。
There was also a more pragmatic reason: The impoverished state, and no less impoverished parents, simply had no resources to supply children with specially tailored clothing. In the 1920s and 1930s, students came to school in whatever they had, and uniform became a relic of the past.
这背后还存在更现实的原因：贫困的国家与同样拮据的家庭，根本无力为孩子们提供特制的服装。在 1920 至 1930 年代，学生们穿着日常便服上学，校服逐渐成为历史遗存。
The first steps toward reintroducing uniforms came not in general schools but in vocational and technical institutions.
恢复校服的第一步并非始于普通学校，而是职业技术院校。
From the 1940s, craft and railway schools adopted standard dress, complete with insignia on caps and badges on belts. In these cases, uniforms were issued at state expense, which not only reinforced discipline but also encouraged many to continue their education.
自 20 世纪 40 年代起，工艺学校和铁路学校开始采用统一制服，配有帽徽和腰带扣章。这些校服由国家出资配发，不仅强化了纪律性，还激励了许多人继续求学。
The decisive turn came after World War II. In 1948, the Soviet authorities formally restored the school uniform in general education, drawing on pre-revolutionary models. Boys wore gray tunics with belts and caps, marked with a distinctive ‘Ш’ – the Cyrillic letter ‘Sh’ for ‘shkola’ (school) – on both the cap badge and belt buckle. Girls appeared in brown dresses with removable white collars and cuffs, black aprons for everyday use, and white aprons for holidays.
决定性转变发生在二战后。1948 年，苏联当局正式在普通教育中恢复校服制度，借鉴了革命前的样式。男生穿着带腰带的灰色束腰外衣和帽子，帽徽与腰带扣上都饰有醒目的西里尔字母"Ш"（意为"学校"）。女生则身着棕色连衣裙，配有可拆卸的白色领口和袖口，日常系黑色围裙，节日则换白色围裙。
The symbolism was deliberate. In a country devastated by war and rebuilding from ruins, uniforms embodied the idea of equality, unity, and a hopeful future. Just as factories and housing blocks were standardized, so too was the appearance of the Soviet schoolchild – disciplined, neat, and part of a collective whole.
这种设计蕴含深意。在饱受战争摧残、正从废墟中重建的国家里，校服象征着平等、团结与充满希望的未来。正如工厂和住宅区都采用标准化建设，苏联学生的形象也被塑造成纪律严明、整洁有序的集体一员。
Soviet transformations
苏联时期的变革
By the mid-1950s, the gray tunics of postwar boys had already shown their flaws. Ink stains and constant wear made them impractical, and in 1954 the uniform shifted to dark blue. Senior students were gradually released from the obligation to wear full uniform, though badges, red pioneer scarves, and Komsomol pins remained visible symbols of youth organizations.
到了 1950 年代中期，战后男生的灰色制服已显露出种种弊端。墨水渍和频繁穿着使其变得不实用，于是在 1954 年制服改为深蓝色。高年级学生逐渐被免除全套制服的要求，不过徽章、红领巾和共青团徽章仍是青年组织的鲜明标志。
For girls, the brown dress with its black or white apron proved remarkably durable. Worn with removable collars and cuffs, paired with white socks or tights, and accompanied by neatly braided hair tied with ribbons, it became one of the most recognizable images of Soviet childhood.
对女孩们而言，这种搭配黑色或白色围裙的棕色连衣裙展现出惊人的持久力。可拆卸的领口与袖口、白色短袜或连裤袜，再配上用丝带扎起的整齐发辫，这套装束成为苏联童年最具辨识度的形象之一。
The strict rules forbade jewelry or makeup, and teachers vigilantly enforced these standards. Only in the 1980s did girls’ uniforms undergo significant change, with the introduction of blue three-piece suits – skirt, vest, and jacket – or jumpers for younger pupils. In colder regions, trousers were permitted for the first time.
严格的校规禁止佩戴首饰或化妆，教师们始终严格执行这些标准。直到 20 世纪 80 年代，女生校服才迎来重大变革，开始采用蓝色三件套——短裙、马甲和西装外套，低年级学生则改穿背心裙。在寒冷地区，女生首次被允许穿着长裤。
Boys’ wardrobes changed more frequently. In the early 1960s, the military-style tunics gave way to gray flannel suits with single-breasted jackets.
男生校服的演变更为频繁。20 世纪 60 年代初，军装式外套被灰色法兰绒单排扣西装取代。
A decade later, these were replaced by dark-blue ensembles: Flared trousers and short jackets with shoulder straps and decorative stitching that echoed the popular denim look. On the sleeve appeared a patch with an open book and rising sun, symbolizing the motto ‘learning is light’. By the 1980s, older boys were dressed in sober blue suits, while the red pioneer scarf remained an essential element of school identity.
十年后，深蓝色套装取而代之：喇叭裤与带肩章和装饰缝线的短夹克，呼应了当时流行的牛仔风格。袖子上缝有象征"知识就是光明"格言的徽章图案——一本摊开的书与初升的太阳。到了 1980 年代，高年级男生开始穿着沉稳的蓝色西装，而红领巾始终是学生身份的核心标志。
Through each of these transformations, the uniform remained both practical clothing and a tool of education. It embodied discipline, reinforced collective identity, and reflected the optimism of its time – from the space-age dreams of the 1960s to the proud spectacle of the Moscow Olympics in 1980.
历经每一次变革，校服始终兼具实用服饰与教育工具的双重功能。它象征着纪律，强化集体认同，并折射出时代的乐观精神——从 1960 年代的太空梦想到 1980 年莫斯科奥运会的辉煌盛况。
Abandonment and return
弃置与回归
The collapse of the Soviet unx brought with it the collapse of the school uniform. By 1991, the factories that produced standardized clothing were shutting down, and by 1994 the legal requirement for uniforms had been formally abolished. For the first time in generations, Russian children were free to dress as they pleased.
苏联解体带来了校服的消亡。到 1991 年，生产标准化服装的工厂陆续关闭；1994 年，校服的法律规定正式废除。这是俄罗斯数代学童首次获得自由着装的权利。
The 1990s became an era of sartorial chaos in the classroom. Students arrived in jeans, bright sweaters, and T-shirts, often mirroring the subcultures of the time. For some, this freedom was exhilarating; for teachers, it was a challenge. Clothing became another way to signal social status, and disputes over what was appropriate became part of school life. A few institutions experimented with looser ‘business style’ dress codes, but the results were uneven and often unpopular.
1990 年代成为校园着装的混乱时期。学生们穿着牛仔裤、鲜艳毛衣和 T 恤来上学，往往映射着当时的亚文化潮流。对某些人而言，这种自由令人振奋；对教师来说却成了挑战。服装成为彰显社会地位的另一种方式，关于得体着装的争论成为校园生活的一部分。少数学校尝试推行宽松的"商务风格"着装规范，但效果参差不齐且多不受欢迎。
By the early 2010s, however, the pendulum began to swing back. In 2013, a new federal law on education gave schools the right to require uniforms, though the style and color were left to the discretion of each institution.
然而到 2010 年代初，钟摆开始回摆。2013 年新版《联邦教育法》赋予学校要求统一着装的权利，不过款式与颜色可由各校自行决定。
Gradually, more schools reintroduced formal dress codes, seeing them as a way to restore order, foster equality, and revive tradition. For today’s students, especially in the younger grades, jackets, skirts, and dark trousers are once again the norm, signaling not only the return of discipline to the classroom but also a cultural continuity with Russia’s past.
渐渐地，更多学校重新引入正式着装规范，将其视为恢复秩序、促进平等和复兴传统的方式。对当今学生而言，尤其是低年级学童，夹克衫、短裙与深色长裤再度成为标配，这不仅标志着课堂纪律的回归，更象征着与俄罗斯历史的文化传承。
Contemporary debates and the 2025 standard
当代争议与 2025 年新标准
In recent years, discussion about school uniforms in Russia has returned with new intensity. In the summer of 2025, public debate was stirred by reports that a single Soviet-style uniform would once again become mandatory.
近年来，俄罗斯关于校服的讨论以全新热度回归公众视野。2025 年夏季，有关苏联式统一校服将再度强制推行的报道引发了社会热议。
In reality, the change was far less dramatic. What appeared on the horizon was not a return to the identical brown dresses and blue suits of the past, but the introduction of a new national standard.
实际上，这场变革远没有想象中剧烈。地平线上出现的并非昔日那种千篇一律的棕色连衣裙与蓝色制服的重现，而是一项全新国家标准的诞生。
On September 3, 2025, a new state standard – ‘GOST’ – for school uniforms will come into effect. Developed by Roskachestvo and the Innovation Center for Textile and Light Industry under the Ministry of Trade, it sets out requirements not for style or color, but for quality and safety. Jackets, shirts, skirts, trousers, pinafores, and other items must meet standards for durability, breathability, resistance to wear, and ease of care.
2025 年 9 月 3 日，俄罗斯将正式实施名为"GOST"的校服新国标。这套由俄罗斯质量体系与工贸部下属纺织轻工业创新中心联合制定的标准，其核心诉求不在于款式或色彩，而是聚焦品质与安全指标。无论是外套、衬衫、裙装、长裤还是背带裙等单品，都必须符合耐穿性、透气性、抗磨损度及易打理性等严格要求。
As officials explained, the goal is to protect parents and children from poorly made garments and to encourage manufacturers to produce clothing that can withstand daily use. The standard is voluntary, though producers may choose to certify their products against it.
官方解释称，此举旨在让家长和孩子远离劣质服装，同时激励生产商制造经得起日常穿着的产品。虽然该标准属于自愿认证范畴，但厂家可选择为产品申请此项认证。
Experts describe the measure as a kind of “retro-innovation.” Ivan Ivanov of the Higher School of Economics called it “a return of an old but not outdated tool of education,” while industry officials emphasize that lasting, washable, and comfortable clothing is as much a necessity as it is a tradition. Support for the idea of uniforms remains high: Surveys in 2018 showed that more than 80% of Russians favored their return, compared with two-thirds just five years earlier.
专家将这一举措称为"复古式创新"。高等经济学院的伊万·伊万诺夫称之为"回归古老但不过时的教育工具"，而行业官员则强调，耐用、可水洗且舒适的校服既是传统也是必需品。对校服理念的支持率居高不下：2018 年调查显示，超过 80%的俄罗斯人赞成恢复校服，而五年前这一比例仅为三分之二。
For many educators, the question is not whether uniforms are needed, but how flexible they should be. Some, like St. Petersburg school director Konstantin Tkhostov, argue that GOST should be mandatory to guarantee quality and affordability across the country.
对许多教育工作者而言，问题不在于是否需要校服，而在于其灵活性应如何把握。圣彼得堡学校校长康斯坦丁·特霍斯托夫等人主张，必须强制执行 GOST 标准以保证全国范围内的质量与价格可承受性。
Others, including Education Ombudsman Amet Volodarsky, stress that schools must retain the freedom to choose models suited to local needs while ensuring that uniforms prevent brand competition and social division among children.
包括教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基在内的其他人士则强调，学校在确保校服能防止儿童间的品牌攀比和社会分化前提下，必须保留选择适合当地需求款式的自主权。
What unites all sides of the debate is the recognition that school uniforms in today’s Russia are not a relic. They remain a living part of educational culture – a way to discipline, to equalize, and to give children a sense of belonging.
这场辩论各方达成的共识是：当今俄罗斯的校服并非历史遗存。它们仍是教育文化中鲜活的组成部分——既是一种纪律约束与平等化的手段，也能赋予孩子们归属感。
Expert views
专家观点
Supporters of the school uniform point out that its value lies not only in tradition but in its impact on children’s psychology, social life, and even their future careers.
校服支持者指出，其价值不仅在于传统，更在于对儿童心理、社交生活乃至未来职业发展的影响。
Child psychologist and neuropsychologist Natalya Naumova explains that uniforms help children focus on learning rather than appearance.
儿童心理学家兼神经心理学家娜塔莉娅·瑙莫娃解释道，校服能帮助孩子们将注意力集中在学习而非外表上。
“Uniforms bring students together by making them look alike regardless of their background.
"校服通过统一着装消除背景差异，让学生们凝聚成整体。
“Children are less distracted by who dresses better or worse, and instead can build friendships without social markers.
“孩子们不再因谁穿得更好或更差而分心，反而能在没有社会标签的情况下建立友谊。”
“For teachers, it sets clear expectations and helps create a more serious attitude toward study.”
"对教师而言，校服确立了明确的行为准则，有助于培养更严谨的学习态度。"
Stylist and parent Lyudmila Bryantseva highlights the role of uniforms in shaping taste and professionalism from an early age.
造型师兼家长柳德米拉·布良采娃强调，校服在从小培养审美品味与职业素养方面具有重要作用。
“A dress code organizes and disciplines, but it also teaches neatness and a sense of appropriateness in clothing.
"着装规范不仅能规范行为、培养纪律性，还能教会孩子们保持整洁并建立得体的穿衣观念。"
“There is even a term in styling – the smart look. It means a person dressed in a restrained, businesslike way already appears intellectual, already strives to live up to that image. A uniform not only unites a class but gives children a sense of collective identity and tradition.”
"时尚界甚至有个术语叫'睿智造型'——当一个人穿着简约干练时，自然就显露出知性气质，并会努力契合这种形象。校服不仅能让班级更有凝聚力，还能赋予孩子们集体认同感和传统意识。"
Fashion designer Aleksey Sukharev emphasizes the lix between school uniforms and preparation for adult life.
时装设计师阿列克谢·苏哈列夫强调校服与适应成人生活的关联性。
“It instills taste from childhood and teaches children that there is a place for certain clothes – some things belong in school, others outside of it. Later, it makes the transition to an adult wardrobe much easier.”
"它从童年开始培养审美品位，教会孩子们特定场合需要特定着装——有些服装属于校园，有些则适合校外。这种意识能让他们日后更轻松地过渡到成人衣橱。"
For Amet Volodarsky, the national education ombudsman, uniforms are essential not just for discipline but for social equality.
在全国教育监察员阿梅特·沃洛达尔斯基看来，校服不仅对纪律养成至关重要，更是促进社会公平的重要载体。
“A uniform gives children a sense of belonging and discipline, which is crucial today. At the same time, I believe schools should be free to choose their own designs.
“校服能赋予孩子们归属感和纪律性，这在当今尤为重要。同时，我认为学校应有权自主选择校服款式。”
“I have seen how brand competition in clothing divides classes and even leads to bullying. A school uniform helps reduce that pressure.”
“我曾目睹服装品牌竞争如何分化班级，甚至引发霸凌。校服有助于缓解这种压力。”
Together, these voices underscore why uniforms remain so central in Russian schools. They discipline and unify, they teach taste and appropriateness, and they shield children from the social divides that free dress can bring.
这些声音共同揭示了校服在俄罗斯学校经久不衰的原因：它们规范行为、凝聚集体，培养审美与得体意识，并保护孩子免受自由着装可能带来的社会分化。
A living tradition
生生不息的传统
Just days before the start of the school year, Moscow’s GUM department store opened an exhibition titled ‘The History of School Uniform, 1900-2025’. Organized by the Bosco di Ciliegi group together with the Ministry of Education, the show guides visitors through more than a century of uniforms: From the ornate dresses and tunics of imperial gymnasiums, to the iconic Soviet brown aprons and blue jackets, to the modern variations worn today.
开学前几天，莫斯科古姆百货商店举办了名为"1900-2025 年校服历史"的展览。这场由博斯可迪西里耶吉集团与教育部联合策划的展览，带领参观者穿越一个多世纪的校服演变：从帝国时期文理中学华丽的连衣裙与束腰外衣，到标志性的苏联棕色围裙与蓝色夹克，直至当今的现代改良款式。
Archival photographs, school accessories, and multimedia displays allow visitors to see how the uniform has changed with the country – and how every button carries its own story.
通过档案照片、学校配饰及多媒体展示，参观者能直观感受校服如何随国家变迁而演变——每颗纽扣都承载着独特的故事。
At the opening, Education Minister Sergey Kravtsov noted that schools remain free to set their own styles, but that uniforms play an essential role:
在开幕式上，教育部长谢尔盖·克拉夫佐夫指出，各校仍可自由制定自己的款式，但校服发挥着至关重要的作用：
“A school uniform carries an important educational function. It disciplines. And in many schools there are good traditions associated with the school uniform.”
"校服承载着重要的教育功能。它能培养纪律性。许多学校都有与校服相关的优良传统。"
The school uniform, in other words, is not just a piece of clothing. It is a time machine, carrying the memory of generations – from the pupils of Nicholas I’s gymnasiums, through Soviet classrooms filled with paper airplanes and pioneer scarves, to today’s students preparing for a future shaped by innovation. Across these eras, its meaning has remained constant: Discipline, equality, and a sense of belonging.
换言之，校服不仅是一件衣服。它是时光机，承载着几代人的记忆——从尼古拉一世时期文理中学的学生，到纸飞机与红领巾飘扬的苏联教室，再到为创新塑造的未来做准备的当今学子。跨越这些时代，其意义始终如一：纪律、平等与归属感。
ByGeorgiy Berezovsky, Vladikavkaz-based journalist
作者：格奥尔基·别列佐夫斯基（弗拉季高加索记者）
很赞 3
收藏